Does this amp/speaker combo work well for both sets of speakers?

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kanihoncho

CarAudio.com Newbie
Does this amp/speaker combo work well for both sets of speakers? If I buy this amp with the rear speaker specs in mind will the front speakers be underpowered?

Will a 2 amp solution, one for the fronts and one for the rears be better? I'm still working on my sub solution.

So if the 5-channel solution doesn't work for the front speakers should I purchase a 2 channel for the front and a 3-channel for the rear and sub, where each amp focuses on getting the most for the appropriate set of speakers?

1. Kenwood Excelon X802-5 5-channel car amplifier specs
  • 50 watts RMS x 4 + 300 watts x 1 at 4 ohms
  • 75 watts RMS x 4 + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
  • 150 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
Front speakers - Infinity Kappa 503CF
3-ohm impedance
handles up to 80W RMS (Peak 240W ea, 480W pair)
frequency response: 55-40,000 Hz
sensitivity: 93 dB at 2.83 volts

Back speaker - Infinity Kappa 53XF
3-ohm impedance
handles up to 60 watts RMS (180 watts peak power)
frequency response: 55-40,000 Hz
sensitivity: 93 dB at 2.83 volts
 
A 5 channel amp is fine. The front and rear speakers are the the same efficiency so at any given input, they will be the same volume, relatively speaker-ing.

As I mentioned on your other post, that amp will put out around 62.5 watts per channel x 4 at 3 ohms. I like to have a little more power than my speakers are rated for, allows for a bit of headroom. That said, a different 5 ch might afford you a little more dynamic range, a little more punch.


RMS Power @ 4 ohm4 x 130W / SUB: 300W
RMS Power @ 2 ohm4 x 220W / SUB: 600W
RMS Power @ 1 ohmSUB: 900W

You would just have to set the gains conservatively.

Another option:

If you can find one of these in stock, nice little unit.


They make this one too


Lots of options and the recoils while budget minded are nice amplifiers. I've got the sub amp in my grandsons car and it performs very well.

these are just out from Stinger and are pretty clean.
$159 and powerful


(<1% THD @ 14.4V)
150W x 4 + 500W x 1 @ 2Ω
75W x 4 + 300W x 1 @ 4Ω
300W x 2 @ 4Ω
700W x 1 @ 1Ω - CH5

 
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Here is another 5 ch to add to the mix. Ive installed quite a few sub amps 4chs and 2 chs, and they serve very well for the coin. I prefer a 4ch and a separate mono/sub amp due to getting more options for more power for the sub stage and running cooler than most 5 ch amps.

4 ch and mono/sub amp


The 1300.1 Atom Pro is the same price as the 1k Mach.at the moment


 
Some high power offerings and much appreciated. When buying an amp that offers much higher power than the speaker ratings, I assume that I will most likely have the volume topped out because of my hearing before I hear overdriven speaker artifacts (also as mentioned the gain will most likely be set low)? Do speakers blow quickly or do they need a period of time at high volume based on their construction materials?
 
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Some high power offerings and much appreciated. When buying an amp that offers much higher power than the speaker ratings, I assume that I will most likely have the volume topped out because of my hearing before I hear overdriven speaker artifacts (also as mentioned the gain will most likely be set low)? Do speakers blow quickly or do they need a period of time at high volume based on their construction materials?
Speaker ratings are generally a thermal/mechanical limitation of the drivers. Music is dynamic, not continuous. During quiet periods a song, you May only have 20 watts needed, in heavy peaks and very loud portions of a song, it mat need 80 to 100 watts burps of power to reproduce the dynamics (differences in peaks and valleys) in any given music program - that is dynamic headroom,

If you're not exceeding the mechanical limits, then somewhat higher than the thermal limits (RMS) can be exceeded - as long as the amp has to deliver (headroom). You can hear when speakers are being played beyond their capabilities in the form of distortion. Too much over a short period and permanent damage can occur. Flip a switch on accident at full volume, they can pop and smoke instantly though that is rare.

The amount of power they can handle goes up depending on the HP (subsonic) filter settings for that driver. If you go out to CDT.com, you'll find speakers there have much higher RMS ratings but they also list the frequency where that is derived at. Setting the main speaker channels at 70-100 hz really changes that capability of the speaker as most thermal and mechanical energy is used up trying to play that 50 to 80 hz frequency band in your primary speaker channels. The subsonic filter does the same thing for you subwoofer. It is a HP filter that you set between 20-50 hz or below the tuning of your sub to eliminate frequencies it can't play (but will try too) from ever reaching the sub, freeing up power to play where it can.

Those Infinity Kappas will likely handle more than the RMS, especially dynamically (not continuous), crossed over at 90-100 hz, maybe 50% more crossed at 100 hz than they can left open, 25% more crossed at 70-80, etc. Having the extra power will allow the amp to cleaning playback the dynamic peaks without clipping which is a speaker killer. This filter should be set so that these drivers are picking up where the subwoofer leaves off, generally around 80 hz (that is a starting point and can be adjusted +/- to tase).

When it comes to speaker damage, I've seen as many kill good speakers trying to make them play with an amp that is simply matcher dto their RMS where the person is trying to go full boar, clips the amp and toast the speakers without exceeding the rated RMS.

Expra power and conservatively set gains is actually a better/safer bet that hoping it plays up to potential with and amp that is at the RMS rating of the speakers.
 
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