Help. Wanting to buy speakers and run active. Already have amp. Flexible $200 budget.

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

Help. Wanting to buy speakers and run active. Already have amp. Flexible $200 budget for tweets and mids, or whatever speakers I get.

Ok... So I have a ppi900.4 phantom on the way. (145w x 4 at 4 ohms, 225w x 4 at 2 ohms). Was looking to buy a component set. But then I was looking at some taramps and pro audio stuff on djstagegear.com and noticed I could really save some money by just buying a pair of tweeters and 6.5" door speakers and powering them straight from the amp. Maybe even rears but I'm probably just going to forget about the rears to save cash.

My questions:

1) Would it be a good idea to power a set of tweeters and give them each a channel and do the same for the 6.5" doors and just use the crossover on the amplifier to run an active setup? Is that even how one goes about "running active" without a DSP?

2) What tweeters and speakers would y'all recommend. Or what component set, if the above scenario is not possible.

Thanks a ton.

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[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

In the most basic sense, yes, giving the mids and tweeters their own amplifier channels and using the amplifier's crossovers does count as running active. If you're going to that effort you might as well use a DSP, or at least a nice head unit, because the crossovers are only one step in the process of achieving good sound quality. If you just want to get loud get your back speakers upgraded and run all 4 channels the traditional way. You can get a CDT speaker package with front components and rear coaxials for $200.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

In the most basic sense, yes, giving the mids and tweeters their own amplifier channels and using the amplifier's crossovers does count as running active. If you're going to that effort you might as well use a DSP, or at least a nice head unit, because the crossovers are only one step in the process of achieving good sound quality. If you just want to get loud get your back speakers upgraded and run all 4 channels the traditional way. You can get a CDT speaker package with front components and rear coaxials for $200.

Yeah, I was looking at cdt. I just figured I could take out the rear deck speakers to get some bass in the cabin from the trunk. It's only loud when I fold the seats down but I'd prefer to keep them up. I have a Kenwood x998 which seems like a pretty good head unit. If I'm not mistaken it's one of Kenwood's top model. Probably should've gotten an 80prs but oh well.

So it wouldn't really be that simple just to run the speaker wire directly from the amp and set the crossovers at like 80 and 4k hz or so? I definitely don't want to bother with a dsp.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Yeah, I was looking at cdt. I just figured I could take out the rear deck speakers to get some bass in the cabin from the trunk. It's only loud when I fold the seats down but I'd prefer to keep them up. I have a Kenwood x998 which seems like a pretty good head unit. If I'm not mistaken it's one of Kenwood's top model. Probably should've gotten an 80prs but oh well.
So it wouldn't really be that simple just to run the speaker wire directly from the amp and set the crossovers at like 80 and 4k hz or so? I definitely don't want to bother with a dsp.

You're proposing to take this only a little bit into the process of setting up an active sound quality system. Eliminating passive crossovers isn't an automatic upgrade. Properly designed passive crossovers will help balance the sound at the top end of the mid-woofer and the low end of the tweeter. They normally also give you a tweeter level adjustment.

If you had a local DIYer with relevant experience to help you out that would be a big plus.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

it really honestly depends on your budget and goals OP.. if you plan on running a 6.5 and tweeter active on the ppi you'll be without rear fill which is ok, but you'll need to set the gain really low for the tweets

I would buy a pioneer deh-80prs, and run an actual active system if i were you. thats one of the cheapest ways besides a DSP to get the time alignment and DSP capabilities on the scale you want.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

You're proposing to take this only a little bit into the process of setting up an active sound quality system. Eliminating passive crossovers isn't an automatic upgrade. Properly designed passive crossovers will help balance the sound at the top end of the mid-woofer and the low end of the tweeter. They normally also give you a tweeter level adjustment.
If you had a local DIYer with relevant experience to help you out that would be a big plus.

Alright that's info I wanted to hear. Basically I do want some form of imaging but I'm really just looking to have a crisp clear system. I guess some cdt passively crossed over component system would be the easiest approach? And which series? And would you recommend anything other than cdt? Or is that pretty much the best for the money in the component category?..

Edit

and I want it to be loud

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

I want to sq. I want to hit tha debeez.

Some things never change.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

I want to sq. I want to hit tha debeez.
Some things never change.

Yeah... I'm not that guy. Seriously.

1) If you're referring to me saying I want to put together an SQ system, you're referring to something imaginary.

2) If you literally simply mean that I said I want to get loud and sound good simultaneously... (dear lord..both of those.. at the SAME time?) I think everyone who has an account on this forum including you wants that.

Just busting your balls. Any recommendations on components? I really would like to go the pro audio route to save money but I'm not sure how that'll sound without a DSP.

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

Does your amp allow you to set the xovers? I don't know the specs on it.

In any event, I'd go with Dayton Audio for your purposes. They are a solid product for this purpose. I don't know much about pro horns and all that jazz because I think it's dumb.

I run pandora off a component set with one 12. I'd rather have a 10 or two 8s.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

Does your amp allow you to set the xovers? I don't know the specs on it.
In any event, I'd go with Dayton Audio for your purposes. They are a solid product for this purpose. I don't know much about pro horns and all that jazz because I think it's dumb.

I run pandora off a component set with one 12. I'd rather have a 10 or two 8s.

Kenwood x998. I set the x-overs AND slope on the HU. Heard it has time alignment but I can't find it anywhere in the settings, menus, etc. Not sure if they are active or passive crossovers. Idrk that much about car audio. If I can somehow run an auto tuning DSP and get it for cheap I'd like to do that, because there are a ton of pro audio drivers and super tweeters with crazy good sensitivity and power handling. I don't want to go through the trouble of tuning manually and learning how to do it. Found a used jbl ms 8 for $460 but that's definitely too expensive for me.

If the above is not possible for under $400, I guess I'll go with some high powered components. Willing to spend up to $400 absolute max. Preferably I would like to take out my stock rear deck speakers and just have the empty holes venting into the cabin so I don't have to fold my seats down to get some loud bass from the trunk. I can bridge my amp and run up to 450w, 4ohm per side to power some beast front components that aren't too thick/deep to fit. Or use all 4 channels on the tweeter and mid pairs. How is, for instance, Sundown Audio or Sound Qubed as far as components go? I'm leaning towards passive components. What is a good bang for the buck model / company for this?

edit

on EVOM forum apparently people are saying depth is not an issue with the 6.5" fronts. Lots of room. Regardless, I'll try to be conservative with it