I'm horrible at this ported box stuff

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You know, that diagram was really helpful. I really appreciate you making that. The calculator on carstereo.com was also very helpful, but could somebody clear up what the "enclosure volume" would be within the "calculate your vent length" section? Is that without all displacements (so just interior measurements), or with them? I just have a couple last things to clear up. #1- The height of that vent in the picture takes up the whole interior height of the box, correct? (so it's 14.5"?) #2- The length is going to be started from right behind the baffle? The 3/4" of extra length you drew to make it 12.75" is not going to be in the length? #3- How important is the "golden ratio" in making a ported box? The general answer I got is that it won't make a difference whether I stick to it or not, but I was just wondering.
Yes. it was a full height port.

The lenth of the port should be measure from beginning to end down the center of the port, even if it has a 90 degree turn in it, so yess, the 3/4 baffle should ba counted in the legth, sorry if i forgot it in my sketch

 
if those are the internal dimensions the box vol is 2.879 and with a 3" round port @ 32hz it needs to be 4.xx somthin inches i forgot....use this site
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31

but you need to factor in subwoofer displacement and port displace into the box volume, and i would just a 4" round port instead of 3"
for the "Enter Enclosure Volume" box, do you put the volume b4 or after port displacement?

 
I believe that would be after the port's displacement. That calculator was my main resource for making the box. Also, you can't really factor in extra volume for bracing and such, so what I would do is figure out how much space any extra things you want to put in the box will take up, and add that to the driver/subwoofer displacement.

 
I believe that would be after the port's displacement. That calculator was my main resource for making the box. Also, you can't really factor in extra volume for bracing and such, so what I would do is figure out how much space any extra things you want to put in the box will take up, and add that to the driver/subwoofer displacement.
You’re getting the hang of it.

(total internal volume) - (port displacement) - (sub displacement) - (any other stuff (bracing))= (total volume for tuning calculations)

I’m glad I could help you, and that you learned something from all of this; you are one of the few people asking for help that isn’t totally helpless...you tried to do some stuff on your own and asked lucid, intelligible questions. I respect and thank you for that.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Peace.

-Brandon

P.S. I'll let this thread R.I.P. now.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Actually, I must bring it back from the dead for a second. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I am almost done with the box, but had a question. My port is to the left of where the sub will go, on the same side. Then, it runs behind it's magnet and it's opening is to the right of the sub. Should I put the sub so that it's magnet is closest to the port opening in the box, or as far away as possible? What difference in sound would I notice? Mucho Gracias to everyone.

 
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