Need some recommendations on sub/subs for 6 cubes ported box $1K sub budget

[na96ek 10+ year member]

What’s up guys/gals, Ive been browsing for weeks at all sorts of subwoofers but still can’t make a decision for certain how to set up my next enclosure.


At this point my electrical is well prepped. I have a singer 250a alt (the largest they could build to fit in the stock location for my 1st generation Honda CR-V, two XS Power AGM D5100’s (one under the hood and one in the back) and 1/0 OFC throughout. I wasn’t ready to take the step to lithium yet.


I have approximately 33” wide x 24” deep x 18” tall (to not build above the window line) I would like to stay constrained to, which works out close to 7 cubes before sub/port displacement. I have a goal of playing clean from low 20’s up to about 35 or so HZ. 40’s and over are of no interest to me, I plan to tune around 25-28.


Initially I was planning on one sundown X15 or possibly one X18 if I could get enough internal volume. But I started to think about 10’s as I could potentially fit 6 in this enclosure. Of course If I chose to go 6 10’s they would be a budget sub, something in the $150 range.


I should add I plan to run this off one JP23. my mids and highs are already took care of with a separate amp.



So with a budget of $1000 for subs only and roughly 6 cubes to work with, what are some good recommendations for playing low, Multiple smaller budget subs or one big beast?



I am open to any suggestions, I’ve been out of car audio for about 10 years but got the bug again recently and… well… everyone here knows the rest

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Okay, wide open huh?
cubes is not a lot of space for 6 10's.

WORKING OFF THIS CHART:

4 of these (okay $1076 but...) tuned to 24 hz - WOW!

SQL Series – StereoIntegrity.com

stereointegrity.com

4 of these in a 6 cubic foot box would absolutely kill it! To die for!!! (or of).

 

[na96ek 10+ year member]

Okay, wide open huh?
cubes is not a lot of space for 6 10's.

WORKING OFF THIS CHART:

View attachment 55945


4 of these (okay $1076 but...) tuned to 24 hz - WOW!

SQL Series – StereoIntegrity.com

stereointegrity.com

4 of these in a 6 cubic foot box would absolutely kill it! To die for!!! (or of).

When I thought of doing 10’s originally I did suspect 4 would be optimal especially after I subtract for port volume but didn’t know if maybe there were some 10’s out there that could perform optimally in about 0.8 - 1.0 ported. I did however figure about 1.1-1.4 was probably more appropriate, especially for my goals.

That’s not too bad over budget, I would be willing to stretch it some, I like the thought of tuning even lower but it really started to eat into my airspace unless I started having some of the port external. I was considering two 6” Aeros that could leave the box partially if I needed to which would also allow for tuning changes

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I tell ya, those SI 12s are damn good subs. The cone area w/4 is almost the same cone displacement as the 6 10s would be. I would think even after bracing and vent displacement you would be close. I'm sure someone could model it for you in WinlSD. Off the cuff I came up with a gross volume of about 7.5cu ft, 12" x 4" x 31" port, heaven at 24 hz!

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

of those tens would work too, but IMHO little gain and $450 more for what? 4 12's seems to be the optimal balance in performance and cost.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Four of these will work great in DVC2 ohm to a final load @1 ohm. the HDS3.2 are out of stock with a 3" coil. But these 2.5" coils will serve justice for the price and in stock. I usually recommend the American Bass XFL series, but they would be right at budget and maybe a little over unless you shop around. these get down pretty good. I have a pair myself in 10s and 12s up to the HDX3 series. I would recommend you do some kind of bracing for that roof. Just a pair of tens I ran would ripple the roof on 1750rms on a pair of the 3 series when I had my 99 CRV @4.0@32htz

10" HDS 2.2 Series Subwoofer

SoundQubed HDS 2.2 Series 10" Subwoofer. Great sound. Great punch. Affordable price. 600w RMS with 1200w MaxAmazing platform with great output.

soundqubed.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I like 10s and always have. you would be surprised at what a ten can do to serve justice.

 

[na96ek 10+ year member]

I like the idea of 4 12’s a lot but I feel it will be extremely tight unless I stagger them a little and Im oddly anal about aesthetic, plus I think I will a be a hair short on optimal volume as well, 18” roughly is to the bottom of the window line but after a double baffle that leaves my internal dimensions 31.5” x 22.5” x 15.75” or 6.45 cu. ft. I feel I will be lucky to have 5 cu. ft. Net after all is said and done so the 4 10”s just keeps sounding better.

I absolutely will have to do something for my roof, I found that out years ago when I ran a single obsidian audio 15” in 4.0 cu. ft. @. 32 on ~ 1000wrms. I’m hoping I can get away with just some deadening, but if I need to add a brace it’s no big deal to me. These things do have very flimsy roofs

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I don't think you'll lack for anything with 4 of anything! I've run 4 10s, fast, impactful, low enough to raise hair on the arms. At $130 apiece, you could get really crazy with 8 of these - Compound loaded face to face, in about 4 cubic ft!

VCW104v3 1600W Peak (800W RMS) 10" VC-Series v3 Dual 4-Ohm Subwoofer

Product Details: 10" Dual 4-ohm VC-Series Car Subwoofer Power Handling: Peak: 1600 watts watts RMS: 800 watts watts Recommended Power Range: 650 - 800W RMS Impedance: Dual 4 ohm Carbon Fiber dust cap Pressed paper cone with carbon fiber top Custom High Roll Foam Surround with Nylon Stitching...

nvx.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I like the idea of 4 12’s a lot but I feel it will be extremely tight unless I stagger them a little and Im oddly anal about aesthetic, plus I think I will a be a hair short on optimal volume as well, 18” roughly is to the bottom of the window line but after a double baffle that leaves my internal dimensions 31.5” x 22.5” x 15.75” or 6.45 cu. ft. I feel I will be lucky to have 5 cu. ft. Net after all is said and done so the 4 10”s just keeps sounding better.

I absolutely will have to do something for my roof, I found that out years ago when I ran a single obsidian audio 15” in 4.0 cu. ft. @. 32 on ~ 1000wrms. I’m hoping I can get away with just some deadening, but if I need to add a brace it’s no big deal to me. These things do have very flimsy roofs

Deff going to need to add a brace or two with even 4 tens. That roof is not very rigid by any means. LOL. Most vehicles today are not like the older vehicles that were more metal and harder steel and well framed.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

4 tens will slamm pretty good.the right tuned enclosure and configuration will serve well. Id do Subs up port rear or Subs up port up. got take care of that roof either way.

 

[djdilliodon!]

Nothing hits the lows like big subs (15’s, 18’s or bigger). If low end is the game, I’d make this really easy and do 2 15’s sealed or 4 12’s. Get something with a suspension on the softer side so they dig nice and deep.

 

[Firewalker]

So you are only going to us a JP23 which is what 2,300 watts? At best with an amplifier like that then a pair of 10
or 12" 1000 watt RMS subwoofers unless you can find a 500 watt RMS 15". Personally I would upgrade then that amplifier to something else with at least 4500 watts rms like from Ruthless or the Aurra from amplab on a set of 2 12" Fi X 1,500 watt RMS would slam.

The Fi X series 12" for a pair is around 4.5 cubic feet at 33hz. So 7 cubic feet I would do like dj said a pair of 15".

 

[Firewalker]

I have a set of the new Fi X series 12" sitting here going in a 4.5 cubic foot box at 33hz and going on 4500 watts with the subs having a triple spider. I am planning setting the gain lower then what the amplifier is capable of, of course but nicely built sub and they are $364 a piece for 12" and then add $20 dollars for the 15" and they also have 18" as well.

 

[na96ek 10+ year member]

I want to do subs up port back but 24” deep will just barely shut my rear door, meaning the box will be right up against the back wall and I’m not sure the port will breathe well in that location. Ports up seems to make for a difficult port design when tuning this low. I’d thought side port would have to suffice as it’s the area I have the most airspace around the outside of the box and much easier to make long internally.