Nbs GMC Sierra Silverado ext. amp rack ideas

You ever thought of running power wires through the back wall vent and keeping secondary batteries and amps in a toolbox?
No. Bad Idea.

Don't run wires through the vent. Those leak like crazy to begin with. I sealed off the one on passenger side. Helped a ton with exhaust noise. Driver side was leaking so I sealed up the edges with silicone.
No. Worse idea than running wire thru the vent.

Thats why you put a rubber gromet...Those vents are made for cab pressure which is why you arent suppose to cover them.
But you suggested to run wire thru the vent...

I currently have the power ran through the firewall and inside the floor trim piece



I must be a flat out MORON for running my wire down the frame rail, on top of the rail or bottom of body, utilizing factory wire holders as a place to tie my cable to. Under the carpet under the rear seat there are a couple plastic plugs on the driver's side. Drill a hole, run the wire down. I can run 6 cables 1/0 in size from the battery to the inside of the back of the cab in 30 minutes, and it's clean, and you only see whats coming thru the floor. Clean and simple.

I have seen SO MANY 99-13 trucks NOT running power cable like this. Its a catastrophe to run it thru the front of the cab, down the door, and all that crap. Wasted time and space, and troubles trying to pipe large wire in small spaces.

Im NOT insulting you guys. Just take a look. You will see. Its SUPER easy to run the cables there.

drill a hole by the air vent and use a grommet, yes. please dont put a grommet on it and run it through the air vent.. id run the wire along your frame securing it along the way with bolts and ties.
^^^This is the info you need, LMAO. Glad to see you do the same Mitchell. Good Job!

 
I haven't done that, but that's my intent if i need more than 1 run. For small systems, running the wire through the firewall and under the floor is perfectly acceptable IMO. Just need to make sure it doesn't get pinched along the way, and at the firewall you need to especially ensure no thin/jagged metal is touching the wire casing. I've got a 0 gauge wire this way right now and it's perfect for what I need. 0 gauge is about the limit of what I'd run using this method,.

 
I would run 1 as intake 1 as exhaust. I'm sure it would work either way but that's what I would do.

So your saying I should have left the vent on passenger side to allow excess noise into the cab and not sealed the edges to prevent leaks? The vent on driver side works perfectly fine its not sealed off. It doesn't leak now. 4 gauge fits perfectly in the channel under the plastic door sills. When I run my 1/0 I plan to run it along the frame.

 
I haven't done that, but that's my intent if i need more than 1 run. For small systems, running the wire through the firewall and under the floor is perfectly acceptable IMO. Just need to make sure it doesn't get pinched along the way, and at the firewall you need to especially ensure no thin/jagged metal is touching the wire casing. I've got a 0 gauge wire this way right now and it's perfect for what I need. 0 gauge is about the limit of what I'd run using this method,.
If I was running more than 1 run I would be running along the frame rail but I'm not so yea I already ran it through the fire wall not gonna change it now

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I would run 1 as intake 1 as exhaust. I'm sure it would work either way but that's what I would do.

So your saying I should have left the vent on passenger side to allow excess noise into the cab and not sealed the edges to prevent leaks? The vent on driver side works perfectly fine its not sealed off. It doesn't leak now. 4 gauge fits perfectly in the channel under the plastic door sills. When I run my 1/0 I plan to run it along the frame.
1/0 fits perfectly as well just a p.i.t.a to get it through the large wire grommet to the inside of the brake booster...

On second though if my power wire doesn't reach when I figure out where I'm gonna mount amp rack I may just have to switch it up to the frame rail

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automatic silverado's have a ton of space to actually punch your own hole and run through the firewall. enough room for +2" hole. way easier than running under the car plus safer if you like to take your truck off road.

do a push pull setup with the fans you will get better circulation that way.

I dont think it will be shorter to run under than inside.

 
automatic silverado's have a ton of space to actually punch your own hole and run through the firewall. enough room for +2" hole. way easier than running under the car plus safer if you like to take your truck off road.
do a push pull setup with the fans you will get better circulation that way.

I dont think it will be shorter to run under than inside.
Well to be honest if it I can't get it figured out I'll just buy a new run of the same ofc I used to replace my knu koncepts cca

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I head a popping sound at higher levels when I installed my subs and couldn't figure it out till today I pulled this phucker out and let it free air and realized the ring that secures the spider on the one side wasn't all the way secured so I'm taking with emf and I'm gonna have to see if sundown will warranty it because it's some serious bs

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Can you fix that yourself? Appears a phillips screwdriver will be need and re-adjusted.

Like the brackets used on the x series subs that hold down the surround other than just glue alone. One of my 15's has this.

Is that an SA8v.2?

 
can you fix that yourself? Appears a phillips screwdriver will be need and re-adjusted.
Like the brackets used on the x series subs that hold down the surround other than just glue alone. One of my 15's has this.

Is that an sa8v.2?
x8

 
Can you fix that yourself? Appears a phillips screwdriver will be need and re-adjusted.
Like the brackets used on the x series subs that hold down the surround other than just glue alone. One of my 15's has this.

Is that an SA8v.2?
Yea it's an x8 I was trying to get in there and tighten it but there's virtually no room...

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1/4" driver bit with a 1/4" box wrench should do the trick.
That's exactly what I ended up doing

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Tried to clean it up a little bit then gorilla glue epoxy all the way around and a little extra thick where the spider was separating then it was hurry hurry and try to get the screws back in before it set lol talk about a pain in the arse

My pointer is sore as hell from applying pressure to the 1/4 drive bit trying to get them all tight but it's all done hopefully I fixed my problem

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The problem side still sticks up a bit but hopefully all that epoxy I packed on there does the trick to make it sound right

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els1989

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