Need help Astro Van wall build

outtherecustoms
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a customer came to me with 4 kicker warhorses and 4 solo x 18s. he bought a 1990 astro van from me and will be getting a batt bank of 16 XS D3100 batts. I need some suggestions, tips, tricks, and ideas for this build. It will be built for USACI Mod 4001+ and we will be doing as much deadener in front of b-pillar as possible. roof and sides will be reinforced from b-pillar back. this will be a burp box with no deck or speakers up front. any help is appreciated!

 
I do not have any suggestions either

I was just thinking what a waste of money and equipment

Why not build something that he could drive around with and have some fun as well

Perhaps set it up so it is easy to rewire so he could switch it between BURP and DAILY setup

Throw some speakers and an HU in the front - dual purpose truck

Anyway post some pics of the build once you get it started.

 
2 warhorses are being used in his other 2 vehicles. the 18s and 2 warhorses will stay in this all time. he wants this so i am building this for him how the customer wants it. I already failed at trying to talk him into brands i sell (pushed for 4 18" nightshades and 4 NS-1 amps). He is a Kicker Fan and wants to be in the 160s. so if it is what he wants im going to give the customer paying the money what he wants. please dont be negative like on all forums and how people have been do to him using kicker. it gets old looking for some useful help and tips and only getting negative comments about his choice in equipment. Sorry but i know about kicker and peoples thought on kicker already and dont need to hear it when im trying to be serious on a matter other then why this equipment and why that type of install.

please only comments relating to the topic as i came here because of negativity on equipment and burp vehicle were getting out of hand with no one giving any helpful or anything for that matter regarding the topic.

Thanks

Tyler

 
Sorry - I did not think I was being negative

Warhourses are retarded - in a good way

My last setup was a SPL build and I used Kicker L7's

The customer is always right, right? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Anyway when you start the build post it up and I am sure someone into walls will post up on here soon.

 
ya im hoping so. and yes i know i have 2 warhorses running 2 nightshades in my daily driver! its a little crazy and i have a 240 amp alt and 8 kin 2400s and i can play all day and night! but im now getting him leaned towards some night shade 18s fully built up by jacob due to the fact kicker is discontinuing the solo x line

 
The best advice I can give without actually crunching numbers is, figure for the best enclosure type for those drivers to be able to burp efficiently, and treat the front cabin as a compression chamber and the design should be fairly accurate if done correctly. This allows you to figure for proper box volume instead of just filling in the space and hoping for high numbers, though you will get them either way, better to be as optimum as possible. More goes into a design than just fitting it in, filling it with a lot of gear, and putting a lot of power to it, even though that works for some people.

 
so he is running 2 of the warhorse amps and 4 of the solox 18's? i can help.

i would find the resonant frequency of the van cabin once the wall is built. then tune 2hz lower then the res freq. i would put those subs in a big slot port wall tuned to what i stated above. EVERYTHING inside the box and the wall face as SMOOTH as humanly possible. resin inside the box sand, repeat, then paint the inside. round over the port exit on both sides coming out. make sure the baffle is 4-5 layers thick. thats a lot of weight hangin.

just a few things.

 
so he is running 2 of the warhorse amps and 4 of the solox 18's? i can help.
i would find the resonant frequency of the van cabin once the wall is built. then tune 2hz lower then the res freq. i would put those subs in a big slot port wall tuned to what i stated above. EVERYTHING inside the box and the wall face as SMOOTH as humanly possible. resin inside the box sand, repeat, then paint the inside. round over the port exit on both sides coming out. make sure the baffle is 4-5 layers thick. thats a lot of weight hangin.

just a few things.
4 warhorses 1 to each sub full tilt (may change to some heavily modded sundown nightshades built up by jacob). no as far as the wall it will be solid 2x4 cage with 8 layer face and rear wall with 4-5 layer thick sides. the interior will have 4 or 6" pvc cut down and mitered in in the corners (also am doing chop mat on each side for strength). 4 layers of resin will be applied to interior and 80 grit after each layer final layer 80 grit working to 220 grit. i want to paint it but what kind of paint works best? also face will be 6" thick the port side (next to subs) will be angled to fit snug inside of 6" pvc and fully glassed over. on the drivers side of port mdf will flare out to the b pillar to make up for outside wall length between it and the side. it will be fully rounded smoothed and resined (if needed pvc will be used for max flow. there will be 0 square corners in the box and no sharp edges. the cabin in front of b pillar is to remain stock with exception of deadening. also i was thinking of using some rattle trap xxx i have laying around to cover the face as i have seen this works good....the box will be tuned right around 70hz but im having a hard time for some reason figuring the tuning out exactly....i will have the van back on saturday here to say and will get full measurements. also chris fish (colorado-runs trunk 0-1000 USACI and going for record in it this year-and highest TL score ever.....shattered 3 sensers in port wars with 182.8) said to go about 12" deep on sub side and 14" deep on drivers side and make port as wide and tall as possible. he says i should be really close. i was thinking of doing face sides and top/bottom and taking a single mdf sheet and throwing in as temp plate for rear and testing to get proper depth but this will mess me up bad with my design as my rear will be going in before face on how i want to build it

 
Hes going to cook those subs. Around 2.5k-3k each tops for music. They dont cool very well, and definitely wont take a Warhorse each for much more than a single burp.

 
If you MUST stick with 4-18 Solo-X's for USACi....build that van's wall so that the subs at are as close to the wall as possible. Stack them 2 on 2. (a 6-15 wall would be better though, its a tried and true method)

Build the port as deep as your wall's face is deep. Flare the mounting area behind your subs.

Also, slope the back wall of the box. 25degrees is a good start. Burp, test, burp, test, recone, burp, burp test, burp, test, recone...and so-on.

The depth of the wall vs the slope will determine tuning more-so than the "on paper tuning".

Hint-hint.

 
Hes going to cook those subs. Around 2.5k-3k each tops for music. They dont cool very well, and definitely wont take a Warhorse each for much more than a single burp.
not true. i am not a kicker fan, i love my warhorses but nothing else from them, i have 4 solo 12s, i ran 2 on each warhorse at full tilt (2 ohm load each-20k rms to 4 12s) and i ran it every day in and out. the solo x subs do not sound good and are over rated but they are actually decent on the power side of things. hell i did a street beat run with 2 12s each one i reconed to d2 coils for max out of warhorses and did 2 different 30 second music runs and 6 burps that day and the cones are in 100% working order

i no everyone hates kicker and thats all i hear! i want info regarding question at hand not these subs will not do it because kicker *****. there are threads for that and this is not one of them! give the customer what he wants so help me on that! he already knows my posistion on the solo x subs and why night shades would be better. he knows that 6 15 shades would be better, but this is what he wants!

 
Hes going to cook those subs. Around 2.5k-3k each tops for music. They dont cool very well, and definitely wont take a Warhorse each for much more than a single burp.
also i have a friend, chris fish (going to break WR in trunk 0-1000 USACI at finals this year) and he ran clamped over 11k to his 18. he did 27 street beat runs and over 100 burps before removing his perfectly fine solo 18. also willie madril out of havre mt has 4 12s off a stetsom 14k that he put in in 2007. this was his 5th comp season on them and he street beats and does testing all the time. at usaci comps he does 6 burp classes and 2 street beat classes! only at the last show did they finally blow. this is also a 158 street beat vehicle and a 160 stock class vehicle! they **** but they handle it

 
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outtherecustoms

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