Totally lost on something...

[PapaGeno21 10+ year member]

Ok so I have a lot of questions here but I want to try and go one at a time so that I can get them all answered.

RE 6.5C's in front. 75RMS/150Peak

Kicker DS65.2's rear 60RMS/120Peak

Running off my deck which puts down an astounding 12RMS and 50 Peak.

Now here is where I am getting a bit confused. All my speakers all have a 4 Ohms rating.

So if I was to get an amp... Lets use the Kicker DX200.4 for an example.

POWER [watts/ch], FULL-RANGE 2 OHM STEREO: 50 x 4

POWER [watts/ch], FULL-RANGE 4 OHM BRIDGED MONO: 100 x 2

Now I don't believe I can bridge to mono my speakers and create a 4 ohm load, so that option is out. And as far as doing one speaker per channel they would be 4 ohms instead of the 2 that the amp wants. SO would that cut the power output in half? So I could technically do the 4 channels at 4 ohms using my speakers, but I may only get say 20-25 watts out of it vs the 50 it is claiming?

OR would I want a two channel amp. Run the fronts in parallel to the first channel as a 2 ohms load, and then do the same for the rear on the second channel? That seems to get me more power out of a smaller amp as its a 2ohms load vs the 4.

Most amps are rated like that so this question is solid regardless of the amp I choose.

Thanks in advance!

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[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

you'll prolly be getting 30 + watts rms x4

 

[PapaGeno21 10+ year member]

you'll prolly be getting 30 + watts rms x4

If I was to run the 4ohms on the 2ohm per channel?

So it is not actually cut in half, but a little less than half basically?

Do you think that is a good option for my current speaker configuration? Not looking to set records, just for a nice daily driving setup. I am very pleased with how the deck does I am actually not even sure if using an amp will be noticeable?

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

anything is better than deck power,prolly will be fine

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

Ok so I have a lot of questions here but I want to try and go one at a time so that I can get them all answered.
OR would I want a two channel amp. Run the fronts in parallel to the first channel as a 2 ohms load, and then do the same for the rear on the second channel? That seems to get me more power out of a smaller amp as its a 2ohms load vs the 4.

Most amps are rated like that so this question is solid regardless of the amp I choose.

Thanks in advance!

If you run the fronts on 1 channel and the rears on another you would not have stereo seperation anymore which would sound like sh*t.

Look for a more powerful amp.

MB quart has a 100x4 @ 4 ohm amp for pretty cheap. I have been running on for a few years with no problems.

 

[PapaGeno21 10+ year member]

100x4 is way too much power no? My speakers are only going to do what like 37.5rms each in front and 30rms each in back?

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

100x4 is way too much power no? My speakers are only going to do what like 37.5rms each in front and 30rms each in back?

No you are wrong - the RMS is for each speaker not the pair.

The amp has gains on it for each pair of channels so you can adjust it down if you want.

I run 200 watts per speaker to speakers with a RMS of 125 with no problems but I have been in the game for a long time and know what I am doing.

The MB Quart is a good choice as it can handle if you want to upgrade your system one day.

I am running mine bridged 200 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms and it handles it no problems.

 

[PapaGeno21 10+ year member]

Wait so my RE's can do 75 watts PER speaker?

No freakin way... This whole time I thought that was for the PAIR and it was divided by two..

Well this changes everything.

Edit.

The MB Quart ONYX ONX4.80 looks good. 80RMS@4 and 160@2. I will never need more than that kind of power I am betting. Are they good amps?

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

Wait so my RE's can do 75 watts PER speaker?
No freakin way... This whole time I thought that was for the PAIR and it was divided by two..

Well this changes everything.

Edit.

The MB Quart ONYX ONX4.80 looks good. 80RMS@4 and 160@2. I will never need more than that kind of power I am betting. Are they good amps?

Very hard to beat for the price - they do rated and seem to be solid.

 

[PapaGeno21 10+ year member]

Thanks a lot man!

OK so here is another question that I am having a hard time with.

I currently have Kicker 4 gauge wire going to my ZX1000.1 with a Kicker 100A fuse block about a foot from the battery. I would be putting the second amp right next to the 1000.1, so I am coming up to a power wire dilemma. Can I replace my 4 gauge wire with a 0 gauge, and run that to the back. Then run a distribution block and have 4 gauge go to my Kicker and then say 8 gauge to the MB? Or does the MB accept 4 gauge and I can just use that as well. IF I do that, how do I have the appropriate fuses in place? I would only be able to have one fuse going off the 0 gauge near the battery, and that is fine but do I add them together and use say a 140A fuse vs having two completely separate power lines with their own fuse?

Not sure how that all works but I am trying to stay away from having multiple wires going from the front to back, would prefer to have a 0 Gauge and just have a distribution block out back.

Thanks!

 

[butterMilk 10+ year member]

Thanks a lot man!
OK so here is another question that I am having a hard time with.

I currently have Kicker 4 gauge wire going to my ZX1000.1 with a Kicker 100A fuse block about a foot from the battery. I would be putting the second amp right next to the 1000.1, so I am coming up to a power wire dilemma. Can I replace my 4 gauge wire with a 0 gauge, and run that to the back. Then run a distribution block and have 4 gauge go to my Kicker and then say 8 gauge to the MB? Or does the MB accept 4 gauge and I can just use that as well. IF I do that, how do I have the appropriate fuses in place? I would only be able to have one fuse going off the 0 gauge near the battery, and that is fine but do I add them together and use say a 140A fuse vs having two completely separate power lines with their own fuse?

Not sure how that all works but I am trying to stay away from having multiple wires going from the front to back, would prefer to have a 0 Gauge and just have a distribution block out back.

Thanks!

0 gauge from front to back, 250-300a on 0 gauge near the battery. Then after the dist block you need to fuze again, fuze for the size of the wire, or for the amp if the amp doesnt have on board fuses.

 

[PapaGeno21 10+ year member]

OK so I would want it like this?

Battery --250A-----------------Dist Block------- 100A-------zx1000.1

--------------------------------------------- --------60A--------ONX4.80

I am just using 60A as a guestimate for the MB. But that is basically what I would want?

It may be cheaper to just run an 8G wire to the back than do all that crap unfortunately especially because I have a run of 8G.. All I would need is a fuse. What would you personally do?

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

OK so I would want it like this?
Battery --250A-----------------Dist Block------- 100A-------zx1000.1

--------------------------------------------- --------60A--------ONX4.80

I am just using 60A as a guestimate for the MB. But that is basically what I would want?

It may be cheaper to just run an 8G wire to the back than do all that crap unfortunately especially because I have a run of 8G.. All I would need is a fuse. What would you personally do?

I would just run the 8 gauge to the Quart amp - simple and cheap.

You do not need fuses between the Dist block and the amps, both amps have on board fuses.

 

[PapaGeno21 10+ year member]

You think an 8 gauge will be sufficient?

Thanks so much for all the help man.

I am thinking I will just do that as its a LOT cheaper to just run the 8 vs all the other crap.

 

[PapaGeno21 10+ year member]

American Bass SQ475

75@4x4

120@2x4

MB Quart ONX4.80

80@4x4

160@2x4

Hifonics GLX100.4

4 ohms: 100 watts x 4 chan.

2 ohms: 200 watts x 4 chan.

Out of those which would you choose? They are within 20 bucks of each other...