* Trevor's 2010 Audi A4 Trunk Build. Sundown. Fi.*

[helotr3vor 10+ year member]

Here is a few more pictures. I added the spacers to the sundown amp but still need 2 more spacers for the rack to sit perfect on the chassis. **** hardware stores closing early on Saturdays...

Really liking how the amp rack has turned out so far. Love how it sits slanted for a professional look and I should have just a perfect amount of room to plug everything in at the bottom.

Here you can notice plenty of room for the trunk arm and spring to slide freely

 

[helotr3vor 10+ year member]

Put the last 2 spacers in and tightened things up as much as I could. Its very hard to get to the top two screws to fasten the rack in place. Takes quite a bit of patience with a wrench and awkward angles. Hooking everything up once the project db adapters get here. Happy Easter everyone!

 

[Falcons 5,000+ posts]

Really enjoying this. Givin me some good ideas for my Audi build. How did you get to the bare metal of your trunk lid? I know there are clips that come off but after that I can't figure it out.

 

[helotr3vor 10+ year member]

Really enjoying this. Givin me some good ideas for my Audi build. How did you get to the bare metal of your trunk lid? I know there are clips that come off but after that I can't figure it out.

This is what a buddy on the Audi forums sent me for removing the trunk lid panel and the side panels in the trunk.

"Use this to remove the trunk lid liner:

http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Proje...yTriangle.html

I have not seen instructions for the side panels:

1.) Remove the opening skid plate (this is the hardest part and will feel like you're about to break it)

- there should be four clips on the top and two guides on the fwd side

- pry under one of the side edges to get a grip and then pull straight up

2.) Remove the backseat filler panels (these are the pieces between the seat backs and the door seals)

- locate and remove attaching bolt under the corner of seat bottom (this is kind of a PITA to push down on the cushion while trying to remove the bolt)

- lift bottom of filler out from under the seat bottom and then pull panel down and out, disengaging two clips and clearing top from C-pillar

3.) Remove the sides

- remove the four tie-down plates (D-rings) from the trunk floor

- starting in the back, pull inboard to release three clips each side

- there are two plastic pins holding the sides to the rear deck, pull these straight down

- fold rear seats down (if you do not have folding seats, you may have to remove your seat back)

- pull side panel inboard working it our from under the rear deck trim and rear seat crevices wires etc"

 

[Falcons 5,000+ posts]

This is what a buddy on the Audi forums sent me for removing the trunk lid panel and the side panels in the trunk.
"Use this to remove the trunk lid liner:

http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Proje...yTriangle.html

I have not seen instructions for the side panels:

1.) Remove the opening skid plate (this is the hardest part and will feel like you're about to break it)

- there should be four clips on the top and two guides on the fwd side

- pry under one of the side edges to get a grip and then pull straight up

2.) Remove the backseat filler panels (these are the pieces between the seat backs and the door seals)

- locate and remove attaching bolt under the corner of seat bottom (this is kind of a PITA to push down on the cushion while trying to remove the bolt)

- lift bottom of filler out from under the seat bottom and then pull panel down and out, disengaging two clips and clearing top from C-pillar

3.) Remove the sides

- remove the four tie-down plates (D-rings) from the trunk floor

- starting in the back, pull inboard to release three clips each side

- there are two plastic pins holding the sides to the rear deck, pull these straight down

- fold rear seats down (if you do not have folding seats, you may have to remove your seat back)

- pull side panel inboard working it our from under the rear deck trim and rear seat crevices wires etc"

Thanks a lot man that's gonna come in handy for deadening

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

I'm sure you'll be pleased with the reducers, I think their custom work adds a really nice touch too. And Don may take a while, but the box sure does come out nice. Are you going carpeted or textured paint or high gloss finish?

 

[helotr3vor 10+ year member]

I'm sure you'll be pleased with the reducers, I think their custom work adds a really nice touch too. And Don may take a while, but the box sure does come out nice. Are you going carpeted or textured paint or high gloss finish?

Yeah im excited to see the reducers. The box is going to be black carpet with a silver painted port. It will match the silver logo dustcap on the Q //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fro.gif.c695f1f814b01c4ad99fe7f8cccadd29.gif

 

[helotr3vor 10+ year member]

Just checked UPS and Fi shipped the sub out today. It'll be at my door tomorrow afternoon so ill make sure to take pictures. I'm guessing the custom reducers will get in on Wed. or Fri. Very excited! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/offwall.gif.29a91b9b265d47af4b8e33fc5b558d18.gif

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

[quote name='helotr3vor']Just checked UPS and Fi shipped the sub out today. It'll be at my door tomorrow afternoon so ill make sure to take pictures. I'm guessing the custom reducers will get in on Wed. or Fri. Very excited! ffwall:[/QUOTE]

SCORE! Make sure to do a smexy photoshoot with it!
Now we're just waiting on @DonH scrawny little ass to get going

 

[J31Rob 5,000+ posts]

Great build. Recently did a build in an 04 A4. I wish his battery was in the trunk.. those firewalls aren't fun to put 1/0 through.

Everything is spot on. Definitely stoked to see the finished product. Keep the pictures coming.

 

[DonH 5,000+ posts]

He got the sub guys and ups fucked it up //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[helotr3vor 10+ year member]

Yup Ill post some pictures of the damaged sub and I also just got my reducers! They look great and test fitted them should work out perfect.

UPS dropped the sub from about 20ft bent the **** out of the basket.

 

[helotr3vor 10+ year member]

So yesterday I got my reducers in from project db and they worked absolutely perfect. Not only that but they look nice too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. Electrical tape had the exact same width so I just cut two pieces and slapped them on the insides just in case it ever loosens up and I don't notice. Since I had the amp rack out at the time I also decided to black out the floor. I had a layer of duct tape over the yellow foam and then put electrical tape on top of that. Came out pretty nice and now your not staring at an ugly floor when showing off the amp. The 1/0ga fit nice and snug with the reducers and amp rack in place. Going to the hardware store soon to get a small wrench to fit the bolts that go on to hold the amp rack in place since it is in an awkward place and I cant use my socket wrench. RCA, Speaker wire, and Remote wire are also plugged in so all that's left is connecting the sub. Unfortunately if you don't know already UPS totally F'ed up my package from Fi. When I saw the box at my door it was cracked and a corner was concaved in. I was told by someone who used to work for Fi that it must have dropped off the belt from at least 20ft. The basket is completely bent pulling and ruining the surround as well. There is also a gash in the magnet. Even handicapped and all the sub still looks beastly and weights at 47lbs. Talked with Scott of Fi and he said they are already building my replacement. Will be sending back the sub as soon as we get things worked out with UPS. Although that was a bummer I still got my amp completely set up and love how it turned out. Funny story, I couldn't figure out why my amps blue power light wasn't turning on for about 45 minutes then finally realized I never put the fuse in on the in-line holder for safety precautions. I used a 250a fuse but will be using a 100a fuse so that it will pop before the 40ax3 would give on the amp. Should have them in a week or so. Anyways got the blue power light on after I added the fuse and everything seemed to work properly.

 

[helotr3vor 10+ year member]

That's it for now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Falcons 5,000+ posts]

dude that blows!!!! excellent job so far though. those reducers are **** as hell!