Blake Vandercar
CarAudio.com Newbie
- 22
- Thread Starter
- #16
Yup was considering getting a 75W amp for all those reasons. Ended up trying out the 100W Pioneer one you recommended. Sounds good so far, but I still definitely need EQing to boost the lows and/or reduce the highs— turning up the volume gives me the lows I want, so I know they’re *there*, which is good.. but the tweeters at that volume are unbearable.get a pioneer gm 8704 its a solid 135 dollar buy that'll sh*t on most offerings out there, you can never have too much power, you can always back off the gains. When you have an amp working at 100% capacity, your distortion levels will be a lot higher, your amp efficiency tanks and runs hotter. You want to have a lot of headroom so you can get the clean output you want with a squeaky clean signal and have all your equipment lasting a lot longer being FAR from any kind of clipping while getting the output you need. There is no overpowering because you directly control the power your amp puts out via gain settings however you have headroom for dynamic peaks that draw more power which usually puts your underpowered amp into clipping territory which screws up the sound as well.
Also, bridging the inputs results in no tweeter hiss! So you were right. So I now know that the hiss is coming from somewhere before the amp in the signal chain— hopefully from the audiocontrol LOC and not the HU.. we’ll see if the Dayton DAP fixes that!
Theres still a super high “dog whistle” frequency noise near 20k though. Barely noticeable, but could lead to like, subconscious headaches. At some point I’ll probably put a value-calculated capacitor across the tweeter to filter this out.