Why are amplifiers not made like this?

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

---------- Post added at 11:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:25 PM ----------

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first pics is bad. second pic is much better..you might want to use better ioslation method on that battery.. if that ****** shorts out you gonna have a hot fire..

I've used 2awg welding wire as my ground for the last ten years. I wouldn't be able to sleep with a ground connection like that.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

uhh........................
im pretty sure those are called spade terminals.

and they work just as well as direct input, theyre not limited to just cheap amps.

yes larger and newer amps tend to have only direct inputs.

just crimp on a spade.

solder is not necessary with a proper crimp.

the correct way it crimp, solder and then heat shrink.. but your not doing it to code so you can do what you like.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[-unknown-]

Like this but I'm not a fan of these because you can tighten the screw down from amp to the input. Like it gets tight but any vibration will make the terminal loose in the amp terminal hole. If u get what I'm saying

What is that? I have no clue what you're talking about, and that looks irrelevant to what I'm talking about. I think I'm confusing people.

 

[-unknown-]

These are crappy lugs!^



And you don't need lugs at all. Just use these^

That doesn't look like a good connection at all. The wires are sticking out everywhere and fraying.

 

[-unknown-]

It makes a better connection. More surface area less resistance.

If I solder the wire into something that takes up the hole entirely, and tighten it with a screw, how is that not good surface contact?

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

lol this argument is dumb, ring terminals will conduct nearly exactly the same as distro blocks provided you use the same wire amount on both. if you think the surface area of a ring terminal isn't able to carry much more current than the wires ampacity then i think you're confused

distro blocks just look nice and are easier to install

 

[des343 10+ year member]

That is basically what all amps today do, insert the wire and tighten the screw down and crush the wire, that's what it looks like to me anyways. Click on the link above, it looks like you solder the wire into a spade terminal, and then insert the spade terminal into the amp, and tighten the screw down on that. Either I'm missing something or idk...

Older amps use to use direct power leads. Meaning the power WIRE was hardwired coming out of the amp. So at least they are better than that.

Also most AB amps use those shotty screw clamp things Idk the technical term but with tho you can use a C connector off the wire into the amp.my wording suuucks but I'm sure u know what I mean lol.

I agree with you tho. It seems the connection wpildnt be good in most class D amps. Also when you tighten it down I always find when I remove the wires I always end up having a bunch of loose wire pieces that came off due to the screw ripping it

 

[des343 10+ year member]

Something like this seems ideal.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

The reason you don't see the spade terminal blocks a lot on amplifiers is because of current limitations, plus I suspect it's cheaper to use round set screw terminals that take the bare wire directly. You can get around the wire crushing issue by using ferrules. I've not used them but some high end car audio shops use them on every installation, such as NVS Audio in Linden, NJ.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Something like this seems ideal.

That's banana plugs.. I recommend the crimp type..

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

The reason you don't see the spade terminal blocks a lot on amplifiers is because of current limitations, plus I suspect it's cheaper to use round set screw terminals that take the bare wire directly. You can get around the wire crushing issue by using ferrules. I've not used them but some high end car audio shops use them on every installation, such as NVS Audio in Linden, NJ.

In alot of plcs and the smaller terminations they work perfect.

Plain and simple you what the highest contact area.. Connectors are rated on two things surface area of the contact point and the conductor material.

I highly suggest pure copper..

Not trying to be an *** just want the youngins to know the right way. This is because based information BTW..

 

[-unknown-]

I think soldering the wire into something, and then tightening the screw onto that, is what I'm going to end up trying. If the ferrule, ring terminal, spade connector, whatever, is rated AWG for your wire, and rated for the amperage you need to carry, would it work? Why wouldn't it work if not? IMO, if it's rated AWG for the wire you're using it will work, because that tells me it has sufficient surface contact to carry the amperage of that wire.

 

[-unknown-]

What are the official alternatives to putting bare wire in the amp? Are there any common methods besides bare wire and screw? I'm talking about the power, ground, remote, and speaker wires.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Who cares.

It's common with a lot of amps...yielding a better overall solid connection.

If you got a better idea then share it.

 

[-unknown-]

Realistically, I'll probably use the normal method, because that's the way everybody does it, most with way bigger amps than I have. I might use some heat shrink or something, right before the connection, and secure the wires where they're not loose though. I'm not trying to hurt anybody's feeling or anything, simply raising questions, and potential solutions offered to me.