Dodge Dakota Build Log

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Any other suggestions on sub firing direction before i start sketching up a new design?

Sub and port firing up is what i got so far.

I saw sub side and port up and that worked well in my friends truck.

Any others?

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

just won http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270238827628

Its going to replace the knu 0awg for the Power Line.

now my question is... Should i turn the old run of 0awg into a negative run? or add it on to the positive?

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

so here is what i have planned out for power so far.



At the moment i have 2 pieces of 6ft 0awg soldered and taped together running through the side of my truck. I Dont like it one bit the way it is right now, im going to re route it through the middle and either turn it into a dedicated ground or possibly a second run of 0awg

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Yesterdays work(aka nothing good)





pretty **** dirty atm





This is the two 0awg runs spliced together.. I dont like it.... at all, so its coming out next time i go down there to run my 0awg hyperflex which is on its way soon =)

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Today, a little work on the door:











Notes:

Thanks to mdillon For inspiration and ideas on the door pods so far

Since the wood is so far back it opened up alot of space making it harder to fill it all in.

Im planning on using stuffing/vinyl to cover the gap in between and maybe some type of rubber liner around the plastic trim???

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

jesus christ that is going to catch on fire!

i hope that does not heat up.

anyway - i would highly suggest NOT PUTTING THE MIDS IN THOSE DOOR LOCATIONS!

move them up (closer to front of car), put them in the kicks - but at least bring them as forward as possible and as low as possible with correct aim (usually ~8 inches forward of opposite listeners face, and ~2 inches down is a good start)

otherwise it looks like a cool build, i dont see the doors coming together very well if this is your first glassing job. it is quite tricky at times man.

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

ok i saw you just posted. here is what you do. listen carefully.

use some nice secure bolts\nuts THAT YOU WILL BE ABLE TO REACH THROUGH THE SPEAKER HOLES TO REMOVE THIS POD! to secure that panel to the door. id prolly put some kind of squishy foam behind it to help with vibrations.

then tape off your door (about 3~5 inches past the cut you made) and get fiberglass stuff ready. get some 3M SUPER 77 spray adhesive and REMOVE the panel.

spray the BACK of the panel with the spray and let it tack up for ~2 minutes. get some REAL STRETCHY material - fleece can work, but i like thinner and SUPER stretchy crap - and apply it to the back of the board, make sure you have about 6~10 inches overhang on all sides. now secure the board to the door with your bolts. k, spray your tape that is on your door with the spray adhesive and stretch the overhanging cloth to the door panel and stcik it to the spray adheisve (make sure you wait the 2 minutes for it to tack up or it will NOT stick well!!) then proceed to soak in resin and apply maybe 2 layers of fiberglass. try and get all air bubbles OUT!!!

then you have a nice tub, trim it to a cool shape and sand the edges nice and smooth MAKE SURE TO LEAVE AT LEAST A 1\2 INCH LIP OVER THE DOOR PANEL OR IT WILL HAVE GAPS AND LOOK LIKE ****. now you can cut a nice flat piece of wood a little smaller than the hole in your door and not quite as long for the large open area, you can make it flush, or angled or whatever, and on the side where the speakers go, mount your two rings toward the listener. i like to go to the chineese food place and ask for some chop sticks (they might ask for a few dollars, i usually get 20~30 pairs)

CA glue is great for getting your mold to suspend where you want it - and i HIGHLY SUGGEST ROUND OVER BITS ON ALL EDGES OF WOOD!!! it makes it look tons better.

ok, now you have a nice tub on your door, some big ass bolts holding it on, some wood that is big and flat (or whatever you feel looks cool on the open side) and two rings on the door jamb side. get some SUPER STRETCHY material (i like consistency of panty hose, i mean super stretchy!!) and stretch from left to right and use hot glue on the BACK side of the tub lip that you made sure you had, and then go top to bottom and after you have those four spots tacked down, work your way in opposite angles. make sure you stretch it super tight and if needed, use staples to hold the fabric down to the boards\rings if it lifts up.

then apply resin and fiberglass making it as smooth as possible and then you are almost there. i assume you know how to sand and bondo and install speakers. so good luck.

this is prolly the best way to do what you are doing. and it will be a huge ass sealed pod.

i hope that helped. please dont ruin that truck.

if you need pictures, i can make some for you.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

jesus christ that is going to catch on fire!
i hope that does not heat up.

anyway - i would highly suggest NOT PUTTING THE MIDS IN THOSE DOOR LOCATIONS!

move them up (closer to front of car), put them in the kicks - but at least bring them as forward as possible and as low as possible with correct aim (usually ~8 inches forward of opposite listeners face, and ~2 inches down is a good start)

otherwise it looks like a cool build, i dont see the doors coming together very well if this is your first glassing job. it is quite tricky at times man.

I have a fire extinguisher in there just incase //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

but yeah that cable is gonna go for sure now, ill cut it up and use it for something else.

Not a pro at glassing but its not my first time either. Ive read up quite a bit and got some new tools since my last time.

I would have gone for speakers in the kicks but there is not even close to enough space in there. Besides I like having lots of leg room size 13 shoe =s

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

ok i saw you just posted. here is what you do. listen carefully.

[im writing as you read this, wait for the edit]

waiting for edit, thanks for input.

Its to late if i have to move the 2x oem's i have, but i am still open for tweeter placement and alignment of speakers.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

ok i saw you just posted. here is what you do. listen carefully.

use some nice secure bolts\nuts THAT YOU WILL BE ABLE TO REACH THROUGH THE SPEAKER HOLES TO REMOVE THIS POD! to secure that panel to the door. id prolly put some kind of squishy foam behind it to help with vibrations.

then tape off your door (about 3~5 inches past the cut you made) and get fiberglass stuff ready. get some 3M SUPER 77 spray adhesive and REMOVE the panel.

spray the BACK of the panel with the spray and let it tack up for ~2 minutes. get some REAL STRETCHY material - fleece can work, but i like thinner and SUPER stretchy crap - and apply it to the back of the board, make sure you have about 6~10 inches overhang on all sides. now secure the board to the door with your bolts. k, spray your tape that is on your door with the spray adhesive and stretch the overhanging cloth to the door panel and stcik it to the spray adheisve (make sure you wait the 2 minutes for it to tack up or it will NOT stick well!!) then proceed to soak in resin and apply maybe 2 layers of fiberglass. try and get all air bubbles OUT!!!

then you have a nice tub, trim it to a cool shape and sand the edges nice and smooth MAKE SURE TO LEAVE AT LEAST A 1\2 INCH LIP OVER THE DOOR PANEL OR IT WILL HAVE GAPS AND LOOK LIKE ****. now you can cut a nice flat piece of wood a little smaller than the hole in your door and not quite as long for the large open area, you can make it flush, or angled or whatever, and on the side where the speakers go, mount your two rings toward the listener. i like to go to the chineese food place and ask for some chop sticks (they might ask for a few dollars, i usually get 20~30 pairs)

CA glue is great for getting your mold to suspend where you want it - and i HIGHLY SUGGEST ROUND OVER BITS ON ALL EDGES OF WOOD!!! it makes it look tons better.

ok, now you have a nice tub on your door, some big ass bolts holding it on, some wood that is big and flat (or whatever you feel looks cool on the open side) and two rings on the door jamb side. get some SUPER STRETCHY material (i like consistency of panty hose, i mean super stretchy!!) and stretch from left to right and use hot glue on the BACK side of the tub lip that you made sure you had, and then go top to bottom and after you have those four spots tacked down, work your way in opposite angles. make sure you stretch it super tight and if needed, use staples to hold the fabric down to the boards\rings if it lifts up.

then apply resin and fiberglass making it as smooth as possible and then you are almost there. i assume you know how to sand and bondo and install speakers. so good luck.

this is prolly the best way to do what you are doing. and it will be a huge ass sealed pod.

i hope that helped. please dont ruin that truck.

if you need pictures, i can make some for you.

Wow that's some great information. Im going to have to try that tub idea you mentioned.

So i just get it to stick to the back of the door panel first, and then stretch it back onto the wood to form a bowl shape? Then glass it and let it harden..

i wonder if i can do this without the wood backing also?

it would give me more space to work with and i could use the same bolt holes i already have pre-drilled.

If you have any pictures laying around, please post em up.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

im assuming you ment stretch a material from the back of the door pannel to the wood as so and then glass it?



Or could i just leave out the wood all together. Either way i will have plenty of space between speaker and seat but it never hurts to have more.

edit:

Hold on i think i see what you ment.. glue from the outside of the door with a lip instead of the inside. Makes more sense that way

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

if you want to lay fiberglass on the door panel (seperated from the door panel with tape\foil\ect) and trim that so you have a flat panel that moulds to the door panel and make it ~1\4 inch thick. you would not have to use the wood panel. but wood is stronger when in large flat areas.

lemme do a quick photoshop for you.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

if you want to lay fiberglass on the door panel (seperated from the door panel with tape\foil\ect) and trim that so you have a flat panel that moulds to the door panel and make it ~1\4 inch thick. you would not have to use the wood panel. but wood is stronger when in large flat areas.
lemme do a quick photoshop for you.

Im thinking of it like this



Then i will still bolt it to the back door.. maybe with large washers instead. or just really thin wood. I have some 1/4" laying around.

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

hope that makes more sense.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

nice PS skills. Im guessing all that on the right is just a cut away? through me off for a sec

now that i understand how to make the pod, can i get your advice on which way to point the speakers?

There 6" and they fit just in between the cuts i made. Magnet is rather large so i will have to stick em out a bit.

Should i angle them up, forward, straight?