my new radio or new burglar alarm drained my battery

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HandsomeSteve

CarAudio.com Newbie
21
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Alabama
my new radio or new burglar alarm drained my battery
05 chevy express 3500 van

The vans been sitting for 2-3 weeks undriven or cranked up. Before radio an alarm
She has been sitting for twice that a bunch of times w/out any battery drain.


My new radio 2009 Pioneer AVIC-Z110bt doesn’t have a on/off button it turns on when ignition key turns on an turns off when key is off an door opens as it should.

I’ve desided to add a switch on the switched 12VDC so I can can have the option to turn it off.


Just now went out to install the switch on the switched 12VDC an battery was dead down to 4.6VDC dam.

Right when I connected the battery charger w/ out the key in ignition the radio started playing the same song (song was used in tuning the tones ect) last played dam an it’s not on repeat play.



only way I know this could happen is the radio was getting both constant an switched 12VDC an I don’t leave the keys in the ign.



I checked the wiring an these 2 connections where securely taped.

Only thing I can think of that would cause the radio to come on w/out the key is a faulty rp4 adaptor or the radio itself but if the radio was shorted inside wouldn't I sell smoke or wouldn't it burn itself up internaly?

Initially I thought the el-cheapo burgular alarm (I recently installed so I could keep my new radio)****** down the battery but when the radio came on w/out the key in I think that isolated the alarm.
like how much voltage doe's this little alarm **** down?


I’m confused why w/ no key turned on when I connected the battery charger the radio came on?

My battery is ruined.

I assume I could connect the radio on it’s own to a battery an observe if the voltage is drained? same w/ the alarm Please suggest a way to test this radio? Thanks for advise
 
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yes connected the rp4gm11 adaptor to retain warnings /chimes
That makes it difficult to wire something wrong, so that is out.
Then all connections have to be good since they are color coded. I think the issue may lie with the retained access power (RAP). It is coming/staying on when vehicle is not in use. The use of an inline switch in the RED power wire is a good idea. It will solve this issue.
 
That makes it difficult to wire something wrong, so that is out.
Then all connections have to be good since they are color coded. I think the issue may lie with the retained access power (RAP). It is coming/staying on when vehicle is not in use. The use of an inline switch in the RED power wire is a good idea. It will solve this issue.
I sure hope the switch will resolve this battery drain. I could afford a much newer van w/ the big 6.6litre engine however after the 07 trailblazor I found out all about the newer than 06 vehicles draining the battery in like 4 days which is a deal breaker for me.

when I fisrt got the van the PO did some skeckie wiring basicely bypassing the house batterys isolator. long story short the start battery was depleted down to 2volts when the roof fans was susposed to be depleting the house battery. it took me some time but I found out about isolators an sorted that issue out.

anyway the folks at autozone where able to revive this start battery it's there strongest at 840cold cranking amps 1K reserve. yesterday autozone slow charged it for 3 hours.man said it was good then I asked for there load test.
1st failed
2nd passed
3rd fail all tests where 100% charged an he said it's holding a charge.

previously mentioned running it down to 2VDC the battery was just under 2 years old now its a couple months from 3 years old. so it's not old an it has always held a charge even sitting twice what this recent amount of time. my deep cycle lead acid batterys are designed to be drained half there voltage an not be damaged.

the start batterys are not as durable I got seriously lucky on the first drain.
maybe I should take it to the battery source they have a better load tester? or should I plan on a new battery? if a unexpected long distance trip comes up I'll bring a spare battery.

for right now I'm gonna reinstall this battery connect my switch on the switched 12vdc an monitor the drain.
thanks
 
when I fisrt got the van the PO did some skeckie wiring basicely bypassing the house batterys isolator. long story short the start battery was depleted down to 2volts when the roof fans was susposed to be depleting the house battery. it took me some time but I found out about isolators an sorted that issue out.
Oh, it is an RV. Well, if the radio inline switch does not work, then you will be on the hunt again.
 
technically it is a RV van however everything being disscussed here are all GM van related.
just bc the van has kitchen/bathroom plumbing ect. has virtualy nothing to do w/ this radio issue.
mirimar bch.jpg
 
has virtualy nothing to do w/ this radio issue
It should not, but sometimes it happens. I repaired an American Eagle motorhome that had battery drain/charging issues. It turned out the converter had gone bad and was using the starting battery as well. Owner bought a new converter charger and I repaired the computer in the battery compartment. TBH I have no idea how I figured it out since I had never fixed something like that.
 
It should not, but sometimes it happens. I repaired an American Eagle motorhome that had battery drain/charging issues. It turned out the converter had gone bad and was using the starting battery as well. Owner bought a new converter charger and I repaired the computer in the battery compartment. TBH I have no idea how I figured it out since I had never fixed something like that.
I did an off road /off grid van for my brother a couple years ago.I ended up placing an Isolator between the starting and reserve batteries. It solved the drainage issue and swapping out a reg. invertor to a sinewave one and we never had any drainage issues after that,and he had plenty of power with 3 Duracell agms and one Duracell starting agm. that sinewave runs smooth and clean
 
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HandsomeSteve

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