OP
Carlos1son
CarAudio.com Regular
- Thread Starter
- #16
OkIf you know what it sounds like when subs are reaching there limits it is not a problem.
OkIf you know what it sounds like when subs are reaching there limits it is not a problem.
I have a Walmart battery lol I’m thinking about getting an agmWhat do you have for a battery?
I have a Walmart battery lol I’m thinking about getting an agm
Yes it is. Every speaker rating is given in two numbers. RMS and Peak. Peak is what it can handle in a burst, (for one second). RMS is what it can play all day, with a clean signal. MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, USUALLY Peak is rated double of RMS.It hits hard in my brothers car but I notice in a suv you need more power
wow double isn’t that too much
Very good information thank you would those speakers hit hard at rms?Yes it is. Every speaker rating is given in two numbers. RMS and Peak. Peak is what it can handle in a burst, (for one second). RMS is what it can play all day, with a clean signal. MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, USUALLY Peak is rated double of RMS.
There's a lot of variables and possibilities, but there is a really slim chance anyone is running peak numbers or double RMS, for a daily build and all the time. It just doesn't make sense. Speakers are designed to handle a certain amount of power. Just because you double it, doesn't mean you get much more. After RMS, there is diminishing return. You put in more and more power, and you get less and less volume out of it. If you want to run double the power your speakers are designed for, then you need new speakers.
You SHOULD be good with 900 into 750, but after 750 it's diminishing return. RMS is what the speakers are designed and intended for. Those extra 300 watts, you might not even notice unless you are at max volume, and even then you still might not be able to notice it, but keep in mind, that extra 300 watts is also another 25 amp draw.
Yes it is. Every speaker rating is given in two numbers. RMS and Peak. Peak is what it can handle in a burst, (for one second). RMS is what it can play all day, with a clean signal. MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, USUALLY Peak is rated double of RMS.
There's a lot of variables and possibilities, but there is a really slim chance anyone is running peak numbers or double RMS, for a daily build and all the time. It just doesn't make sense. Speakers are designed to handle a certain amount of power. Just because you double it, doesn't mean you get much more. After RMS, there is diminishing return. You put in more and more power, and you get less and less volume out of it. If you want to run double the power your speakers are designed for, then you need new speakers.
You SHOULD be good with 900 into 750, but after 750 it's diminishing return. RMS is what the speakers are designed and intended for. Those extra 300 watts, you might not even notice unless you are at max volume, and even then you still might not be able to notice it, but keep in mind, that extra 300 watts is also another 25 amp draw.
I should hear a significant difference with the kicker 1800 right? From the jd1000There's tons of people who prefer to run near double RMS to their subs and front stage.. It's called headroom.
Power is cheap..
Anyways I was not telling the OP he has to run double RMS.. Just saying he will be 100% fine running 150 watts over the RMS of his subs and it would cause zero issues.
I don't think you know what that means. It's how much room is there to add more power before distortion. It certainly doesn't apply across the board for all speakers to double the RMS. Even those that can do are a very very small percentage.There's tons of people who prefer to run near double RMS to their subs and front stage.. It's called headroom.
Power is cheap..
Anyways I was not telling the OP he has to run double RMS.. Just saying he will be 100% fine running 150 watts over the RMS of his subs and it would cause zero issues.
I'd argue power is not cheap. Most cars can handle a 1kw amp with big 3. If you want just 3 more DB - aka doubling power, that's gonna require upgrading to 0awg, a high output alt, high end battery, etc.I don't think you know what that means. It's how much room is there to add more power before distortion. It certainly doesn't apply across the board for all speakers to double the RMS. Even those that can do are a very very small percentage.
I also don't care to get into it with people who use ******** like "There's tons of people who prefer to run near double RMS to their subs and front stage..." That's just a made up stat you felt the need to lead your argument with. If you thought you were right, you would and could stick with the truth. That's not a factual statement.
Power is cheap is not a justification for doubling the power.
Here is a question for you though. If you took two subs, same manufacturer, same model line, but one is 1000w RMS, and the other is 2000w RMS, and you power them both with 2,000w, do you think they will do the same thing? Do you think they will last just as long? Do you think they will have the same amount of distortion and be equally loud?
I don't think you know what that means. It's how much room is there to add more power before distortion. It certainly doesn't apply across the board for all speakers to double the RMS. Even those that can do are a very very small percentage.
I also don't care to get into it with people who use ******** like "There's tons of people who prefer to run near double RMS to their subs and front stage..." That's just a made up stat you felt the need to lead your argument with. If you thought you were right, you would and could stick with the truth. That's not a factual statement.
Power is cheap is not a justification for doubling the power.
Here is a question for you though. If you took two subs, same manufacturer, same model line, but one is 1000w RMS, and the other is 2000w RMS, and you power them both with 2,000w, do you think they will do the same thing? Do you think they will last just as long? Do you think they will have the same amount of distortion and be equally loud?
I'd argue power is not cheap. Most cars can handle a 1kw amp with big 3. If you want just 3 more DB - aka doubling power, that's gonna require upgrading to 0awg, a high output alt, high end battery, etc.
If hit a 200wrms and 1000wrms sub with 2kwrms, here's what you're likely going to experience (assuming you're not playing test tones). The 200wrms sub will be louder until it blows and I wouldn't expect to last long. The 1kw sub may survive on a 2kw amp depending on how you use it. The 200wrms sub may or may not distort significantly depending on enclosure, music, etc, for example a 200w sub with alot of xmech in a ported enclosure may not sound that bad right up until it the VC seizes. OTOH a sub with minimal xmech is going to bottom out before you seize the VC.