L7S not hitting hard

[Carlos1son]

If you know what it sounds like when subs are reaching there limits it is not a problem.

Ok

 

[2023 LTZ]

4ga wire will need to be replaced w 0ga.
Capacitor is not my first choice.

 

[Carlos1son]

What do you have for a battery?

I have a Walmart battery lol I’m thinking about getting an agm

 

[2023 LTZ]

A solid upgrade is higher performance battery and ho alternator.

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

I have a Walmart battery lol I’m thinking about getting an agm

A good battery is important, Get the highest amp battery you can fit.

 

[Carlos1son]

I’ll get a dhp

 

[HardofWhoring]

It says to use a 150amp fuse.
1500w /85% amp efficiency = 1764w / 14.4v = 122 amps.
1500w is about 122 amps draw.
1800w is 20% more 146 amps. So yeah 150 amps is the right size for that amp.

When it's hitting hard at full volume/power it's going to draw 150 amps. Then you add that to what your vehicle needs for it to run, so we're close to 300 amps draw at max. That's assuming that's your factory alternator and not already an upgraded size. If thats your factory size alt, then I would definitely be looking for an AGM battery.

As for the alt, that 150 amp draw from your amp is when it's full hitting hard. It's drawing that when hitting it's hardest at full volume. In between hits it's a lot less. It really depends on the type of music as to how much its hitting, (rap more often, rock a bit less). When it is not playing at max volume its using a less.

Assuming 150 is your factory alt size, you don't NEED to just 150 amps for a 300 amp alt. Yes you can, and that makes it easy, but a quality alt is costly and not something you want to upgrade for a little more amperage and buy a new one. Unless you listen to it at max volume, for hours on end, you could probably get away with one that's about 2/3rds of what your system maxes out at. You SHOULD be able to have no problems with a 250 alt amp. That would also require your vehicle to be maxed out: AC, EFI, COMPUTERS, playing with your windows, electric cooling fans, charging phones, headlights, turns, and just every electrical component getting used at once.

You need to also figure out what your own build is. Do you plan on adding a second or third amp down the road? If you do, THEN NOW is the time to factor in all your possible build options, and I would suggest spending the 5 or 10% more on the larger alt, instead of buying a second one at $500+.

When you buy an alternator, you need to know what the amperage output is at or near idle, and what RPM is needed for max output. Those are the numbers that are the difference between a 300 alt amp that is $200 and one that is $600. A high quality alternator will do max around 2k Rpm, and a crappy one won't be until well after 3K. If you can't get those numbers from the seller, then move on. It would also help for you to know what RPM you drive, and what your commute is like to give you a better idea of when it will be charging more.

 

[HardofWhoring]

It hits hard in my brothers car but I notice in a suv you need more power

wow double isn’t that too much

Yes it is. Every speaker rating is given in two numbers. RMS and Peak. Peak is what it can handle in a burst, (for one second). RMS is what it can play all day, with a clean signal. MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, USUALLY Peak is rated double of RMS.

There's a lot of variables and possibilities, but there is a really slim chance anyone is running peak numbers or double RMS, for a daily build and all the time. It just doesn't make sense. Speakers are designed to handle a certain amount of power. Just because you double it, doesn't mean you get much more. After RMS, there is diminishing return. You put in more and more power, and you get less and less volume out of it. If you want to run double the power your speakers are designed for, then you need new speakers.

You SHOULD be good with 900 into 750, but after 750 it's diminishing return. RMS is what the speakers are designed and intended for. Those extra 300 watts, you might not even notice unless you are at max volume, and even then you still might not be able to notice it, but keep in mind, that extra 300 watts is also another 25 amp draw.

 

[Carlos1son]

Yes it is. Every speaker rating is given in two numbers. RMS and Peak. Peak is what it can handle in a burst, (for one second). RMS is what it can play all day, with a clean signal. MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, USUALLY Peak is rated double of RMS.

There's a lot of variables and possibilities, but there is a really slim chance anyone is running peak numbers or double RMS, for a daily build and all the time. It just doesn't make sense. Speakers are designed to handle a certain amount of power. Just because you double it, doesn't mean you get much more. After RMS, there is diminishing return. You put in more and more power, and you get less and less volume out of it. If you want to run double the power your speakers are designed for, then you need new speakers.

You SHOULD be good with 900 into 750, but after 750 it's diminishing return. RMS is what the speakers are designed and intended for. Those extra 300 watts, you might not even notice unless you are at max volume, and even then you still might not be able to notice it, but keep in mind, that extra 300 watts is also another 25 amp draw.

Very good information thank you would those speakers hit hard at rms?

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

Yes it is. Every speaker rating is given in two numbers. RMS and Peak. Peak is what it can handle in a burst, (for one second). RMS is what it can play all day, with a clean signal. MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, USUALLY Peak is rated double of RMS.

There's a lot of variables and possibilities, but there is a really slim chance anyone is running peak numbers or double RMS, for a daily build and all the time. It just doesn't make sense. Speakers are designed to handle a certain amount of power. Just because you double it, doesn't mean you get much more. After RMS, there is diminishing return. You put in more and more power, and you get less and less volume out of it. If you want to run double the power your speakers are designed for, then you need new speakers.

You SHOULD be good with 900 into 750, but after 750 it's diminishing return. RMS is what the speakers are designed and intended for. Those extra 300 watts, you might not even notice unless you are at max volume, and even then you still might not be able to notice it, but keep in mind, that extra 300 watts is also another 25 amp draw.

There's tons of people who prefer to run near double RMS to their subs and front stage.. It's called headroom.
Power is cheap..

Anyways I was not telling the OP he has to run double RMS.. Just saying he will be 100% fine running 150 watts over the RMS of his subs and it would cause zero issues.

 

[Carlos1son]

There's tons of people who prefer to run near double RMS to their subs and front stage.. It's called headroom.
Power is cheap..

Anyways I was not telling the OP he has to run double RMS.. Just saying he will be 100% fine running 150 watts over the RMS of his subs and it would cause zero issues.

I should hear a significant difference with the kicker 1800 right? From the jd1000

 

[HardofWhoring]

There's tons of people who prefer to run near double RMS to their subs and front stage.. It's called headroom.
Power is cheap..

Anyways I was not telling the OP he has to run double RMS.. Just saying he will be 100% fine running 150 watts over the RMS of his subs and it would cause zero issues.

I don't think you know what that means. It's how much room is there to add more power before distortion. It certainly doesn't apply across the board for all speakers to double the RMS. Even those that can do are a very very small percentage.


I also don't care to get into it with people who use ******** like "There's tons of people who prefer to run near double RMS to their subs and front stage..." That's just a made up stat you felt the need to lead your argument with. If you thought you were right, you would and could stick with the truth. That's not a factual statement.


Power is cheap is not a justification for doubling the power.


Here is a question for you though. If you took two subs, same manufacturer, same model line, but one is 1000w RMS, and the other is 2000w RMS, and you power them both with 2,000w, do you think they will do the same thing? Do you think they will last just as long? Do you think they will have the same amount of distortion and be equally loud?

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

I don't think you know what that means. It's how much room is there to add more power before distortion. It certainly doesn't apply across the board for all speakers to double the RMS. Even those that can do are a very very small percentage.


I also don't care to get into it with people who use ******** like "There's tons of people who prefer to run near double RMS to their subs and front stage..." That's just a made up stat you felt the need to lead your argument with. If you thought you were right, you would and could stick with the truth. That's not a factual statement.


Power is cheap is not a justification for doubling the power.


Here is a question for you though. If you took two subs, same manufacturer, same model line, but one is 1000w RMS, and the other is 2000w RMS, and you power them both with 2,000w, do you think they will do the same thing? Do you think they will last just as long? Do you think they will have the same amount of distortion and be equally loud?

I'd argue power is not cheap. Most cars can handle a 1kw amp with big 3. If you want just 3 more DB - aka doubling power, that's gonna require upgrading to 0awg, a high output alt, high end battery, etc.

If hit a 200wrms and 1000wrms sub with 2kwrms, here's what you're likely going to experience (assuming you're not playing test tones). The 200wrms sub will be louder until it blows and I wouldn't expect to last long. The 1kw sub may survive on a 2kw amp depending on how you use it. The 200wrms sub may or may not distort significantly depending on enclosure, music, etc, for example a 200w sub with alot of xmech in a ported enclosure may not sound that bad right up until it the VC seizes. OTOH a sub with minimal xmech is going to bottom out before you seize the VC.

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

I don't think you know what that means. It's how much room is there to add more power before distortion. It certainly doesn't apply across the board for all speakers to double the RMS. Even those that can do are a very very small percentage.


I also don't care to get into it with people who use ******** like "There's tons of people who prefer to run near double RMS to their subs and front stage..." That's just a made up stat you felt the need to lead your argument with. If you thought you were right, you would and could stick with the truth. That's not a factual statement.


Power is cheap is not a justification for doubling the power.


Here is a question for you though. If you took two subs, same manufacturer, same model line, but one is 1000w RMS, and the other is 2000w RMS, and you power them both with 2,000w, do you think they will do the same thing? Do you think they will last just as long? Do you think they will have the same amount of distortion and be equally loud?

Again I never said the OP NEEDS to run double RMS just saying he will be ok..

For instance.. I had a pair of JL 10w3v2-D6 subs.. 300 watts rms each. I ran them for a year on a Phoenix Gold Zenon 600.1
They sounded pretty good.. Switched amps to a Zapco and was getting 1100 RMS and it was like the subs woke up and they could handle the juice.. They lasted a decade before the foam surrounds started cracking..

I'll gladly run more power than needed over "just enough" or under RMS all day.

Go over on DIYMA and ask how many people run double rms on their front stage.

Again I'm not arguing this is something you need or should do, I simply said it will be ok and not cause problems if you can hear your subs/speakers reaching their limits..

For your last question of course not, I never said that.

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

I'd argue power is not cheap. Most cars can handle a 1kw amp with big 3. If you want just 3 more DB - aka doubling power, that's gonna require upgrading to 0awg, a high output alt, high end battery, etc.

If hit a 200wrms and 1000wrms sub with 2kwrms, here's what you're likely going to experience (assuming you're not playing test tones). The 200wrms sub will be louder until it blows and I wouldn't expect to last long. The 1kw sub may survive on a 2kw amp depending on how you use it. The 200wrms sub may or may not distort significantly depending on enclosure, music, etc, for example a 200w sub with alot of xmech in a ported enclosure may not sound that bad right up until it the VC seizes. OTOH a sub with minimal xmech is going to bottom out before you seize the VC.

Power is cheap to me.. When I started a 25 x 2 amp could run you 400.00
Now I can get a 2k amp for 300.00..