2014 Accord Sport SQ Build keep_hope_alive

[captainobvious! 10+ year member]

my DVA-9861 will control the H701, as will several other Alpine HU's, so that is one option. Get her a W505 or something.

how do you like/compare the H800 to the H701? i like the smaller controller in the C800.

Yeah, that's what I picked up- a w505. I'm told it will control it, just not sure if you can do all of the dsp tuning functions of it through the w505. If so, then I wouldnt nedd a controller which would be great.

I really like the H800/C800 combo. Really easy to use, great display on the RUX.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Yeah, that's what I picked up- a w505. I'm told it will control it, just not sure if you can do all of the dsp tuning functions of it through the w505. If so, then I wouldnt nedd a controller which would be great.
I really like the H800/C800 combo. Really easy to use, great display on the RUX.

yea, you have full access to tuning features through the W505. it's a nice solution that doesn't require finding a location for the RUX.

 

[captainobvious! 10+ year member]

Sweet, good to know. Thanks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Sweet, good to know. Thanks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

i bought some of the radiant barrier

UltraTouch 48 in. x 24 ft. Radiant Barrier-30000-11424 - The Home Depot

Mass Loaded Vinyl | Soundproofing Materials

roll of mlv

and second skin 32 sq ft of damp pro.

Im just looking for those sealing tiles for absorption. also what would you recommended for adhesive. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

OWENS CORNING 703 - Acoustimac

i see this but is their any cheaper solutions

 

[WhereAmEye?]

I thoroughly enjoyed reading the nearly endless thread for your '01 Accord, can't wait for another on a brand new Accord.

 

[HondaKurt]

i learned a few things about the charging system behavior today. i finally put a voltmeter in the dash.
under normal conditions, the alternator maintains 12.5VDC. even under load of A/C or the sound system the voltage didn't move while the car was driving. so the alternator maintains 12.5V on purpose. however, under braking the voltage would climb to 14V - indicative of regenerative braking. even if the car was simply slowing (i.e. turn off cruise) the voltage would climb - so the PCM uses the alternator as a load to both assist braking and provide regenerative charging.

of note - when the headlights are turned on the voltage climbs to 14.4V and stays there.

i did not observe any typical ELD behavior during 4 hours of highway driving.

i made two videos showing charging behavior

[Please forgive me if this is a stupid question] I have a 2014 Accord Sport as well. In fact it is the same color combination. I love the car. I am currently on deployment, and plan to do a very similar SQ build when I return. Hertz/Audison all the way around, within my budget of about $3000. With you studies of the alt on our cars, do you plan on replacing the alternator? What is the amperage rated at? And, do you recommend anything besides capacitors and the "big 3"? Thanks ahead of time for the help.

Edit: Additionally, I am pretty set on keeping the stock head unit because of how integrated it is into the cars system. From what I read within my budget, understanding, and n00bishness, I am leaning toward a DSP. Do you have any recommendations? Do you think this is the way to go?

Kurt

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

PM sent, Kurt.

Feel free to shoot me a PM.

Sent from mobile device.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I thoroughly enjoyed reading the nearly endless thread for your '01 Accord, can't wait for another on a brand new Accord.

yes, it was nearly endless... ended only when i sold the car. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

this shouldn't be as bad, the 2001 was a lot of experimentation. i'm at a point in equipment that i'd need to drop $20k to move to the next level. Nothing major will happen until the powertrain warranty is up... which is probably this time next year. 24k miles and counting.

i don't need to experiment with this car. the doors are done. but i'm adding a processor and moving to IB so it won't be boring!

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Did some recordings with a Zoom H2 in stereo mode.

i'm driving 70mph on the interstate, holding the H2 in front of my chin with the mics facing forward (90 deg separation).

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=9BE5812AB35E1D9E%21410

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

i spent some time playing with the H800. Programming required the unit not only have power but you had to "cycle ACC" or turn ignition on and off to move past various stages of programming. on my test bench, i had a way to do that thanks to consistency with how all of the devices were wired. I programmed with the laptop after upgrading the software version to match the head unit i will be using.

my first test was how to use AUX inputs. I have the Alpine DVA-9861 wired with Ai-Net and fiber optic. that's the SQ source. But I also want to wire the factory head unit in. The Alpine IVA-W200 pictured is acting like my factory head unit. I'm going to play with that for a while on the test bench since it's -30 with wind chill today and generally cold for the next few weeks. The inputs are very flexible. There are 6 inputs and they are paired. any of the three pairs can be high level or low level inputs. and you can set up the system for 4ch + 2ch or three different 2ch inputs. The head unit only sends two channels through Ai-Net or fiber optic.

I did get a configuration to work, one that allowed the 9861 to select AUX on the H800 so i could change between the two sources. That's pretty much what I want but there may be another idea.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

I almost got an H800 to do a 3 way active front stage. New subs/amp took priority though, so I have no more money at the moment.

Definitely keep us posted on it!

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

finally decided to take the stock head unit apart. I am trying to decide how i want it to pair with the new Alpine PXA-H800. Ideally, i'll find a way around the factory DSP entirely. getting inside was the first step. fairly easy, no ribbon cables, just plugs.

remove all of the attachments, vents, mounts. remove the main unit from the face.

a plug connects them (like a faceplate)

remove the heat sink to remove the top cover

remove the CD mechanism

note the Parrot Bluetooth module inside the head unit

remove the inner circuit board

remove the final cover and reveal the bottom circuit board

 

[quakerroatmeal 10+ year member]

Your attention to detail is amazing. Did you get rid of your 2001 accord? I really like these new model accords, best design up to date for them.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Looking more closely at the amplifier IC and preamp section, i think we can snag a decent RCA output from the two dual opamps.

but the opamps inside are pretty poor (typical Pioneer). replacing them makes more sense. I love the Analog Devices OP275, very high slew rate and very low distortion.

replace this:

with this:

i'm not 100% on the amplifier IC because the markings are behind the metal bracket and i don't feel like cutting that out. but this is most likely the IC (or a equivalent model). the ground pins are in the right spot.

also, there is a remote turn-on output in the harness that corresponds to Pin 25 on the amplifier IC.

closeup of the Bluetooth module