Battery upgrade

[JoshC 10+ year member]

Looking to get some beefier electrical in my truck but having some issues. I have a werkers 80ah group 24 battery and it does fit in the tray but it dosnt have the little fins at the bottom to secure it. Also its a bit taller making the stock wires to short to fit into my battery terminals.

So i thought ide throw it in the back, then i saw for your power wire to charge your second battery off the alternator it needs to be the same model as the one under your hood.

Whats my best option?

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[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

are you talking about running dissimilar batteries in parallel? It's okay to an extent as long as you dont have for example lithium with agm or lead acid unless the manufacturer says its ok. its best to keep the AH and cca ratings similar too so similar sizes.

you can run different batteries in parallel but you'll need an isolator or you end up sacrificing the lifespan of both batteries (unless you don't care like most people who just want more juice for their amps)

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

are you talking about running dissimilar batteries in parallel? It's okay to an extent as long as you dont have for example lithium with agm or lead acid unless the manufacturer says its ok. its best to keep the AH and cca ratings similar too so similar sizes.
you can run different batteries in parallel but you'll need an isolator or you end up sacrificing the lifespan of both batteries (unless you don't care like most people who just want more juice for their amps)

I feel like the best option is to find an alternative way to secure the battery under the hood, either that or throw the other battery in the back and just run it into a 6 way block. Although i would have to charge the battery myself to do this correct?

Trying not to buy a $250 battery when i have this 80ah agm already.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

if the battery is in parallel with the other battery it'll get charged. everything is in parallel, including the alternator.

you'll have to find a different way to secure the battery, i usually ask on vehicle specific forums but there may be enough people on here with your truck. tons of us have trucks

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

if the battery is in parallel with the other battery it'll get charged. everything is in parallel, including the alternator.
you'll have to find a different way to secure the battery, i usually ask on vehicle specific forums but there may be enough people on here with your truck. tons of us have trucks

Its a gen3 ram 1500, i believe there all the same under the hood.

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Have the battery tested at a battery shop with a carbon pile load tester (Autometer load testers are awesome and more accurate than the cheap tool store ones. A good shop will have one) that can tell you how strong it is before you do anything. There's g24 tie downs of all sorts out there that you can choose from or modify to strap the batt down under your hood if it's good.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

are you talking about running dissimilar batteries in parallel? It's okay to an extent as long as you dont have for example lithium with agm or lead acid unless the manufacturer says its ok. its best to keep the AH and cca ratings similar too so similar sizes.
you can run different batteries in parallel but you'll need an isolator or you end up sacrificing the lifespan of both batteries (unless you don't care like most people who just want more juice for their amps)

Completely false.

It's perfectly fine, and actually beneficial to run your Lithium battery in parallel with one or more AGM.

Derp

Looking to get some beefier electrical in my truck but having some issues. I have a werkers 80ah group 24 battery and it does fit in the tray but it dosnt have the little fins at the bottom to secure it. Also its a bit taller making the stock wires to short to fit into my battery terminals.

So i thought ide throw it in the back, then i saw for your power wire to charge your second battery off the alternator it needs to be the same model as the one under your hood.

Whats my best option?

I've got five group 49 Exide batteries I'm looking to sell so I can do a 16v system. 80ah each.........

Have the battery tested at a battery shop with a carbon pile load tester (Autometer load testers are awesome and more accurate than the cheap tool store ones. A good shop will have one) that can tell you how strong it is before you do anything. There's g24 tie downs of all sorts out there that you can choose from or modify to strap the batt down under your hood if it's good.

Sold to me by dis guy ^^^

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

if the manufacturer says its fine sure, i wouldn't go running lithium in parallel with a lead acid battery unless i knew it would be safe but im not you

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

if the manufacturer says its fine sure, i wouldn't go running lithium in parallel with a lead acid battery unless i knew it would be safe but im not you

I didn't say it was fine with plain lead acid

It's fine with AGM. Juicebox, XS, ect. all agree.

No brand says otherwise for car audio applications.

Wait...... were you the one hell-bent on a battery isolator when you first joined and I suggested a battery charger???? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

I still think an isolator is necessary in any circumstance with highly dissimilar batteries.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

If they're all AGM (or AGM and lithium), I say let em' mingle

You see in the big builds that people use a different size starter battery than they use in the rear battery bank.

See any big dogs using isolators? No, they've got six runs of zero gauge between the dissimilar batteries.

T Fade only uses one to isolate his caps from the battery for burps. Caps only score higher than caps and batteries for burps.

Other than that, I see not need for an isolator. I wouldn't run lead on the same system with AGM even with an isolator, let alone lithium. I say do it right and just get all agms instead of using an isolator.

That's just my two cents though. I'm going to go take a shower. I'll be back to see if JL Audio accepted my trade //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[UsAmpsFreak]

Not sure if my take is needed or even right. But here it is. My understanding is that if you install any "aux" batteries you need to get an isolator so that the batteries don't kill each other over time. As far as not running identical batteries, i'd say that's false. That makes zero sense.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Batteries do equalize when they sit, but it's not a constant thing that's worth worrying about.

A headunit draws power when it's turned off to save settings. People don't use an isolator for it

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Not sure if my take is needed or even right. But here it is. My understanding is that if you install any "aux" batteries you need to get an isolator so that the batteries don't kill each other over time. As far as not running identical batteries, i'd say that's false. That makes zero sense.

isolators have two uses..

1) prevent a secondary battery from dying

2) maintain equilibrium between the batteries during charge/discharge and keeping them in equilibrium for longer life - i.e. not allowing one battery with a lower resting voltage to pull the other battery down, and then also preventing the higher resting voltage battery from pulling the other back up.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

isolators have two uses..
1) prevent a secondary battery from dying

2) maintain equilibrium between the batteries during charge/discharge and keeping them in equilibrium for longer life - i.e. not allowing one battery with a lower resting voltage to pull the other battery down, and then also preventing the higher resting voltage battery from pulling the other back up.

You're second point is also false.

Isolators are just a big high amperage relay. When they're "on", they do absolutely nothing to "equalize" your batteries. It's basically like a jumper wire.

The whole thing is just wrong //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Where did you hear that????????

EDIT: Unless it is the diode type. Most are just like a starter solenoid