NhustlaR 10+ year member
Below me
dang. upgrade to 1/0 to a distro block. that's prb half the reason youre loosing voltage, youre trying to **** a golf ball through a garden hose (current wise) with 15 or so feet of 4ga.
maybe you read it wrong or I worded it wrong, that's what I was trying to say- there's no way you will draw more than the 300 with an aq1200Stock wiring is fused...
And you don't fuse the wire to protect it from YOU drawing too much current, if your system is pulling close to what the wire is rated at, you need bigger wire. You fuse to protect the wire/equipment in case of a short.
You will in a dead short...I was just saying, it doesn't matter how much current you draw with your system, it has nothing to do with the fuse size...maybe you read it wrong or I worded it wrong, that's what I was trying to say- there's no way you will draw more than the 300 with an aq1200
that is very confusing..I wish someone would post some pics of their big 3 w/o the fuse stuff..i dont know what your talking about when you get into the distro block stuffdang. upgrade to 1/0 to a distro block. that's prb half the reason youre loosing voltage, youre trying to **** a golf ball through a garden hose (current wise) with 15 or so feet of 4ga.
Just because everyone does something doesn't make it right man. **** can happen. Something breaks, something gets pinched, w/e...if that wire connects to ground and you haven't fused it you'll have much larger problems. The extra 15$ is nothing compared to the damage you'd be looking at if your battery exploded (not saying it would, odds could be like 1 in a million).bubba, I rarely see a car/truck which stock alt to batt+ wire is fused. (unless they run into the fuse box under the hood, but even at that 95 percent I do/ have done run from the alt along the frame right to the batt.)
Well it sort of depends on what brand wire you have, I just glanced at knukonceptz's 1/0 and it's rated for 300A. However with the power your running, you would be fine with a 250A.bubba..you said a 250 amp fuse..is that ANL? mini-ANL? what?
well im using knu's 4 gauge wire..but a scosche fuse/fuseholder for the main systemWell it sort of depends on what brand wire you have, I just glanced at knukonceptz's 1/0 and it's rated for 300A. However with the power your running, you would be fine with a 250A.
Oh and fuse type depends on the fuse holder...most common is regular ANL.
lol, fuse holder brand doesn't matter. They sell some nice fuse holders on ebay for like 14$ shipped, if your interested I can find the link.well im using knu's 4 gauge wire..but a scosche fuse/fuseholder for the main system
and for the big 3 ill just use a knu fuse holder w/ a 300A fuse.
does that sound good?
okay..I know this may sound ridiculous but just to make sure im on the right track..and you seem like you know EXACTLY what you're doing.(and I dont)..lol, fuse holder brand doesn't matter. They sell some nice fuse holders on ebay for like 14$ shipped, if your interested I can find the link.
But yeah for 4 gauge the fuse should be 150A, for 1/0 it should be 300A (or smaller)
no no I didnt mean it like that, I meant the factory wiring fused.Just because everyone does something doesn't make it right man. **** can happen. Something breaks, something gets pinched, w/e...if that wire connects to ground and you haven't fused it you'll have much larger problems. The extra 15$ is nothing compared to the damage you'd be looking at if your battery exploded (not saying it would, odds could be like 1 in a million).
yeah i know...it's ok //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifno no I didnt mean it like that, I meant the factory wiring fused.
im sorry we are just on the total wrong page tonight haha