Somehow, yes. Set it to measure DC voltage then measure the voltage on your battery, I'm only telling you to do this part so you can verify you have it on the correct setting, you should get the same results as before. Then without changing anything, go to the amplifier and with power and ground cables still connected to it, put the DMM leads on the amp terminals to measure the voltage there. Make sure your getting the DMM probes onto metal, just use your head when it comes to reading the meter. It SHOULD read the same as the battery does (both with the car on and off). If it's reading a crazy high number like 79 then make sure it doesn't say "mV" somewhere on there because that means millivolts. Post back with results.it was set to measure 12v on the dmm. did i do it wrong?
Disconnect the amplifier and retest at the battery.so the battery is at 12.79 when off and 14.05 when on and the amp stays at 2.4 when the car is both on and off
This doesn't make any sense, I told you to disconnect the amplifier so it shouldn't be reading anything...because it's not connectedand the amp is at 2.37v now
First, completely agree with the above ^but we always start with a DMM and measure voltage.
next, we use that same DMM to measure VAC out of the amp speaker terminals to look for a signal.
then we use that same DMM to measure resistance (ohms) of the speaker wire (disconnected from amp) to verify sub wiring.
Nothing in this thread has confirmed that so I wouldn't jump to that conclusion. If he still had that amplifier connected to the vehicle's electrical system and it was reading 2 volts on the terminals then I think he would be seeing some fireworks. You can't just drag the entire system voltage down to 2V and not damage things, which is why I still think that 2V reading is nonsense. Was that a reading you took from the amp while it was disconnected? (perhaps just some leftover charge from the internal caps?)First, completely agree with the above ^
The problem now seems to be that it looks like the amp may already be damaged and therefore, a DMM measurement at this point would be futile, no?
OK, that is what I figured...I was trying to understand how the hell he could be getting a good voltage reading at the battery and then if you trace the power wire down to the amp's positive terminal, you get 2V. Seems odd to me as well.Nothing in this thread has confirmed that so I wouldn't jump to that conclusion. If he still had that amplifier connected to the vehicle's electrical system and it was reading 2 volts on the terminals then I think he would be seeing some fireworks. You can't just drag the entire system voltage down to 2V and not damage things, which is why I still think that 2V reading is nonsense. Was that a reading you took from the amp while it was disconnected? (perhaps just some leftover charge from the internal caps?)