I don't understand, I am lacking midbass - pictures inside

[Shinju 10+ year member]

change the out that dual amp imo then try again with a better quality amp and come back and tell us what you think.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

-Signal voltage is 4V from KDC-HD942U-Box is a little large for sure yes...I want to rebuild one around 1.5 cuft sealed into the spare tire well.....this will be a big project.

-Tweeter atten. is at -3db as of now per. I spent the last 2 hrs wrapping the panels the tweeters were connected to in matte black vinyl to hide the original mounting holes, then remounted them ON axis, with -3db. Midrange was never the problem, guitars and spoken word are VERY strong. Midbass I mean 80-160hz.

-I know the amp *****, thus why I explained the very poor 72db s/n

- Mids are in stock location on doors, mounted on a 10"x10" sheet of Dynamat xtreme. The doors have holes for sure, the biggest being around a foot by ten inches, but that is around a foot from the speaker mounting (right in the center of the door).

whoa there. mids mounted on dynamat?

 

[way2sl0 10+ year member]

Not literally. The mids are mounted in the stock location in the doors, however they have dynamat ontop of them. Obviously this is a common method of deadening the area and increasing response, or am I wrong? I didn't use MDF rings but if I had to do it again I just might.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

you have to design hte enclosure around hte mid and the desired F3.. people just drop mids in there doors deadened and faily sealed and expect it to hit them in the chest..

also withhout any plot for FR your not going to beable to tell if its cancallation of simply an aligment issue..

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

Perhaps the mids just don't play down into the midbass range very well //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif Sealing the large holes in the doors will improve midbass. Fortifying the baffle and decoupling the driver from the door will aid in improving output and the focus of said midbass. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[way2sl0 10+ year member]

Well I did some covering and EQ'ing, and it is better than it was. I went to adjust gains ( turn up a bit since I am always listening to music on 32 of 35 volume on HU ) and the distortion kicked in. The amp is also really hot, so is it possible 150w rms a side just isn't loud enough for me? I have them crossed at 80hz so they aren't playing that low. I read here and most run 50-80w per side, and 150w should be a bit louder with more headroom but this just isn't the case.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

Hell I run 700w a side in an active 3 way. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[way2sl0 10+ year member]

Active is just a variable crossover for each component in a speaker system correct? I.E adjustable tweeter freq/db slope and midrange the same?

And 700 rms? Yeah thats high. Still though you see alot of people under 100, do they just not listen loud? Or is there more than likely a problem with my gear/install.

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

200w - tweet

200w- mid

300w - midbass

Active just means I am powering each speaker by itself, and using a processor ( h701 ) I don't listen all that loud myself. But good midbass requires some power. I would start with the install by sealing up your doors the best you can. then go from there. The best speaker in a crappy install will sound worse than the crappiest speaker in a good install. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

I'd suggest mounting the mids on an mdf baffle, or something more dense and sturdy.

I gots like 700w to my WHOLE setup at full tilt lol

 

[way2sl0 10+ year member]

Besides sensitivity, is there anything else that effects volume based on input power? How is it possible that 150w a side is not loud enough for me in a CAR setting, when 110w a side in my home theatre is deafening?

 

[IamDeMan 5,000+ posts]

Besides sensitivity, is there anything else that effects volume based on input power? How is it possible that 150w a side is not loud enough for me in a CAR setting, when 110w a side in my home theatre is deafening?

Efficiency plays a role in that comparison. By design most car audio component drivers are not very efficient. Also in the house you are listening to your sources on axis. Then finally you have ambient noise floors making a difference. You largely perceive the home stereo to be louder because it has less ambient noise to overcome unlike the automotive environment. All these play a factor in your perception that 110watts in home is louder than in car.

 

[IamDeMan 5,000+ posts]

If you want loud then get a nice processor to go active, some 8" dedicated midbass installed in well treated doors and some horns with proper compression drivers under the dash and put some serious power to them.

 

[way2sl0 10+ year member]

What the ****? I need horns to get loud? I really don't want to damage my hearing and require a shitload of tuning. Doesn't anyone listen to their music loud, and have it crystal clear? I think you are right though about running seperate amps for the tweets and the mids/bass. What do you use for crossovers though since no amps have 5000hz x's for tweets? Passive?

 

[IamDeMan 5,000+ posts]

What the ****? I need horns to get loud? I really don't want to damage my hearing and require a shitload of tuning. Doesn't anyone listen to their music loud, and have it crystal clear? I think you are right though about running seperate amps for the tweets and the mids/bass. What do you use for crossovers though since no amps have 5000hz x's for tweets? Passive?

You don't NEED horns. That is just one solution. You can go to a 3-way front stage. Of course the most cost effective and obvious solution is to try as has been suggested and really work at treating your doors and a set of baffles for the drivers you have and see how that goes first. If that doesn't satisfy you then obviously you will need to rework your front stage in some fashion to get what you are looking for. Could be a number of ways to attack the issue.

The tweeters I use play lower than 5k. In my crap car I just use the amp XOs which go up to 4k with either 12db or 24db slopes. For the camry I am using a 3sixty.2 and love it.