I don't understand, I am lacking midbass - pictures inside

[LiveAudio911 10+ year member]

Then it sounds like there is either some problem with the mounting of the speakers.. most aftermarket speakers will resonate in any door... the key is adjustments to the Eq bands.. some times depending on the door/mounting location acoustics you have to increase a particular freq.. to get them to sound better.. but in reality what needs to be done is customize the install, like a box or something behind it so that it has something to resonate off of..

Think of a speaker box.. you take the speaker out and the sound is poor, put it in a good box and it gets better, thats because the sound resonates making it sound louder.. if your car does not resonate right.. build some sort of box in the door more or less..

rubber baffles are not going to do what you need them to do.. you might be able to get some plastic ones.. that might help... In all honesty the best ones I have ever seen where custom ones where they built a mount in the door out of fiberglass and even put a port, that brought the resonint sound behind the speaker into the car.. kinda acts like a solobaric (Home speaker with a port) !JBL created that concept back in the early days of their company..

That is the ultimate Quality Sound is a setup like that.. cost a little coin and take some work but youd be pleased.. if your just looking for a cheap short cut.. find some of those plastic baffles, car companies put in behind the stock speakers.. i think that would help you quick and cheap. just find the right size and play with a bit to make it fit.. then i would increase the db alittle on the mid ranges on the eq to give a little boost.. just try not to let them clip

 

[way2sl0 10+ year member]

So how bad are these tweeters/other speakers parts express sells in car settings? I am thinking maybe make some small boxes for some midrangers under the dash, like two 8's or something? I am looking at the parts express dayton woofers which look like $50 etc. I would have to then run active seperately of course I guess right?

lol these at $10? What about a couple of them in small sealed boxes? Or is 3mm of xmax not going to provide any significant bass gains in the 80-150 register.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-250

Even these? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-074

 

[LiveAudio911 10+ year member]

So how bad are these tweeters/other speakers parts express sells in car settings? I am thinking maybe make some small boxes for some midrangers under the dash, like two 8's or something? I am looking at the parts express dayton woofers which look like $50 etc. I would have to then run active seperately of course I guess right?
lol these at $10? What about a couple of them in small sealed boxes? Or is 3mm of xmax not going to provide any significant bass gains in the 80-150 register.

Parts-Express.com:

Even these? Parts-Express.com:

First link looks like nothing more than aftermarket stock replacements.. remember those they used to sell in walmart.. what was the name.. "Road Gear"

The second Looks a little better than the first.. if you just want to use them to to add a little boost to your hz range.. but What i would do is get an inline high pass filter (the one that RCA cable plugs into the imput and RCA male jack plugs into amp) to a small amp of equal rating to the speakers.. then tune the low pass anywhere above the high pass filter hz roll off up... what you will be doing is giving them a specific range to play.. so you don't get all the high's and too low of lows that will make them sound distored..

Used to do this back in the day to refine mid drivers when adding just a small mid woofer to a system... JBL has amps that have this same concept built in, the standard low pass filter, and an active high pass filter.. forget what they call it, but its the same thing.. youll want a high pass filter cut off of like 80-100 hz range.. and the low pass set up to like 300 ish.. somewhere in the low pass's max roll off..

 

[way2sl0 10+ year member]

Would these make a significant difference though? Or am I wasting money....since im using a 4 chan I would have to put my components back to 50w RMS and then run the 2 midbass/woofers at 50w a piece also, rather than bridging all 4 to 150x2.

 

[LiveAudio911 10+ year member]

Honestly I would consider the fact they are 10 bucks.. and I'm sure they are for a reason. if it was me, if i was going to go through the trouble of installing another set of speakers i would make it worth my wild and buy better quality for sure.. those just stand out to me like road gear, leagacy or some other cheap-o....

Its up to you really, its only 10 bucks plus shipping.. its worth the try but i personally would not.. if your unhappy with the sound you got now.. find some better components that you like better.. or add some 8's in the mix..

but honestly try turning your xover up a little on the subs see if that adds to it.. I hate ported box's personally because of their narrow freq. vs a sealed box.. its all your preference man..

 

[way2sl0 10+ year member]

I totally agree. I kind of want to rebuild my box to about 1.5 cu ft sealed instead of mine now. Freq response gain is def boomy.

 

[LiveAudio911 10+ year member]

I totally agree. I kind of want to rebuild my box to about 1.5 cu ft sealed instead of mine now. Freq response gain is def boomy.

It mainly depends on the subs them selves.. its best to put the spec's off the tech sheet into a calc and it will tell you what the optimal box, ported/sealed is...

Like my JBL power series.. Ive heard them in Ported boxes, but I find they sound better in sealed.. guy at car toys has two of them just like mine in a ported box pushing them with the same amp.. his as a little high pitch to the actual notes but as far as bass.. I have a deeper, ballzier bass, plus the actual bass in the car.. well lets just say my seat is a back massager for sure.

I need a decent camera that will pick up the bass good so i can take a vid!

 

[IamDeMan 5,000+ posts]

It is though, it has Dynamat Xtreme..... I think I will just jigsaw some MDF rings, and do that for now. It wont really lower any distortion I am getting at high volumes though, I guess I am screwed for that.

On top and around the MDF baffle you apply good amounts of modeling clay to add mass to the baffle.

Although I suspect you are just expecting too much from the drivers.

 

[IamDeMan 5,000+ posts]

Throwing more cheap speakers at it is more than likely not the correct answer though.

 

[way2sl0 10+ year member]

My components are good though! http://www.gentec-intl.com/GentecInc/Awards/ENC10-energy_-_gentec_9.10_v4_-_12_volt_review_pas_mag_july_2007.pdf

I am going to do the ring thing next week after I move and focus on sealing the doors. Then maybe I will find a new amp for them...go active...

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

For the best midbass response, many times you want the drivers out of phase, not in phase. This is one of a 3-way's significant advantages in regards to midbass, allowing you to have your midbass out of phase but not your midrange. I suggest the OP try switching phase and see what happens. It may improve midbass, but it also may hurt midrange.

Running your dedicated midbass drivers out of phase was a SQ competitor secret 'back in the day', I kinda thought it was common knowledge (in these circles) these days though.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

polarity vs. phase.

 

[ramos 5,000+ posts]

polarity vs. phase.

Acoustical phase vs. electrical phase //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Databyter 10+ year member]

Set your Sub LP to about 125 and see what ya think.

A lot of your Rappers and hip hoppers like it set low but for me and my music (Jazz and Rock mostly), and my vehicle 125 was the magic number. I'm looking for SQ not license plate displacement, although If I turn the bass up I'm sure it would do that. I don't go to live shows and concerts to hear overpowered bass though. I'm not insecure about my penis size either. I like a Bass guitar to sound like it does live and the same with drums and every other musical instrument and even synth should be as live not as engineered to annoy at stoplights.

Now when I listen to a bass guitar riff I hear the whole thing not just the low notes with the mids attenuated. You might try setting your other speakers a bit higher too like 100'ish just to make the overall still blended but snappier as your sub will be handling most response more efficiently (louder) up to the 125ish I mentioned.

Flame away but the ears don't lie.

70-80 can be handled by your components/coaxials or w/e but not with the efficiency (volume) of your sub which probably has a nice mid-range (for a sub) response here.

On my system it sounds great this way, and I AM an audiophile.

I'm terribly glad I did NOT take the advice and set it to where most people do but instead tested and tweaked. My system sounds 100% better now.

p.s. to be fair most of the advice said to experiment and use my ears. so thanks!

 

[aeroportspwn 10+ year member]

Well I got crystal clear highs now, plenty of lows with the RE (which is kind of sloppy to be honest, but loud) good midrange, but no midbass.

If you still have that box for your RE SRX I can tell you why it sounds like ass or sloppy as you stated on your 1st post. You have a port way way to small for that box size and the sub you are using.

You need to use a single 6" AERO PORT with flared ends on both sides OR TWO 3" AERO PORTS with flared ends on both sides.

You basically have a big ass box with a tiny hole in it and that is why it sounds sloppy.. I bet you are getting a lot of port noise at certain frequencies thus why it sounds sloppy.

The way you have the port its just a regular round port and not an aero port. When you are using a real aero port with flared ends on both sides the rule of thumb is 6 - 10 square inches of port area per cubic foot of your box. Anything else but true aero ports with flared ends on both sides is generally 12-16.

The kind of regular round port you are using now would be fine if you were using two 4" round ports (of course you will have to adjust the port lengths and you will have to make a bit of the ports external as well). It looks like you are just using one 4" port.

Just trying to help and saying why it sounds sloppy.