Terrum 10+ year member
CarAudio.com Recruit
Unfortunately I don't have the knowledge nor the tools to build my own box so I splashed out on the overpriced JL Audio HO112-W6V3 about 6 months ago, and it's been by far the best quality prefab subwoofer I've managed to get my car to output with its stock alternator (~90amps). Although the prefab box is supposedly tuned to 33hz, it doesn't hit quite as hard on the lower frequencies (under 40hz) and starts to lose SPL quick (to be expected though, as the F3 for the 12W6V3-D4 is 31hz).
Recently I picked up a dirt cheap 15W0V3-4 with a custom box that the seller built himself to JL Audio specs - for the most part. The only difference is that they used 2 ports instead of 1 (JL Audio specs recommend a 16.85" length and 4" diameter port, however the seller made 2 ~8.5" length, 2" diameter ports instead). Would having two ports instead of one affect the spec'd tuning of 25hz and the F3 of 30hz that I am expecting out of this build? Would I get a better result if I plugged/filled one port and replaced the other port with a 16.85" length/4" diameter port?
Also, can anyone that has experience with the HO112-W6V3 (12W6V3-D4) and 15W0V3-4 let me know which one I should stick with? The HO112-W6V3 is great, and outputs the same if not slightly better than the custom 15W0V3-4 build, but the 15W0V3-4 is infact a lot cheaper, however at the expense of a much larger box.
Lastly, can anyone recommend a sub and/or build for a hatchback that can just about fit a 27" wide, 14" high and 12" deepness 15" box, that hits hard (stays loud) at 28hz? The loudness at ~40hz or higher is perfect - couldn't ask for anything more. But lower than that it really starts to lose SPL. Budget and box size are unimportant at this stage just looking for recommendations despite these factors.
Thank you so much for reading my detailed post and I look forward to any replies and discussions!
EDIT: If anyone has heard the BK Monolith home subwoofer, which is supposedly tuned to 20hz, this subwoofer can hit 28hz without losing loudness no problems. So I'm trying to replicate this in my car if possible.
Recently I picked up a dirt cheap 15W0V3-4 with a custom box that the seller built himself to JL Audio specs - for the most part. The only difference is that they used 2 ports instead of 1 (JL Audio specs recommend a 16.85" length and 4" diameter port, however the seller made 2 ~8.5" length, 2" diameter ports instead). Would having two ports instead of one affect the spec'd tuning of 25hz and the F3 of 30hz that I am expecting out of this build? Would I get a better result if I plugged/filled one port and replaced the other port with a 16.85" length/4" diameter port?
Also, can anyone that has experience with the HO112-W6V3 (12W6V3-D4) and 15W0V3-4 let me know which one I should stick with? The HO112-W6V3 is great, and outputs the same if not slightly better than the custom 15W0V3-4 build, but the 15W0V3-4 is infact a lot cheaper, however at the expense of a much larger box.
Lastly, can anyone recommend a sub and/or build for a hatchback that can just about fit a 27" wide, 14" high and 12" deepness 15" box, that hits hard (stays loud) at 28hz? The loudness at ~40hz or higher is perfect - couldn't ask for anything more. But lower than that it really starts to lose SPL. Budget and box size are unimportant at this stage just looking for recommendations despite these factors.
Thank you so much for reading my detailed post and I look forward to any replies and discussions!
EDIT: If anyone has heard the BK Monolith home subwoofer, which is supposedly tuned to 20hz, this subwoofer can hit 28hz without losing loudness no problems. So I'm trying to replicate this in my car if possible.
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