Need help locating the right speakers
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MB Quart FKB 116 (FKB116) 120W RMS 6.5-in 2-Way Coaxial Car Speakers
MB Quart FKB 116 FKB116 • 240W Peak 120W RMS 6.5" Formula Series 2-Way Coaxial Car Speakers • 120 watts Peak Each 60 watts RMS Each • 1" Titanium Dome Tweeters • Lightweight thermal-formed Polypropylene cone material • Impedance: 4 ohms • Sensitivity: 88 dB
Amazon product ASIN B00EDTSXQ2
This is what Id prob put in on HU stereo power for the money atm. I usually recommend Polk Audio DB series off HU power that do quit well also. NVX are a budget Gem as well to consider and even take a look at some Pioneer. CT Sounds may be another option as well. Take advantage of the Cyber Monday and continuation of Black Friday Sales going on. Others will chime in for recommendations as well
I would look at some Low powered/RMS rated speakers running off the HU alone. Max. of up to 60 RMS would be Ideal. Even though you can place an amplifier of like an 80x4 later on to clean things up and get some more power out of the speakers. Just a recommendation for example of a 4 ch amplifier, and supply kit
www.ctsounds.com
www.ctsounds.com
CT-80.4AB // 480 Watts RMS 4-Channel Car Audio Amplifier
The CT Sounds CT-80.4AB is a compact full-range class ab 4 channel car amplifier. The multi-channel amplifier features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), High Pass Filter (HPF), and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.
www.ctsounds.com
AMPKIT-4GA-ELITE // 4 Gauge 2000 Watt Amplifier Wiring Kit (OFC)
The CT Sounds 4 gauge OFC complete amplifier wiring kit is perfect for systems rated up to 2000 watts and includes everything from a waterproof fuse holder to a bundle of zip ties for cable management to get your stereo going faster.
www.ctsounds.com
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Here's the theory behind this:
Where I would start is go pull the front speaker off, and take the wiring off the speaker, and at max volume measure the AC voltage. You can see the reason why in the video. This will tell you the wattage you are getting to the speaker with that head unit.
Stock head units, are NEVER great. My guess is somewhere around low 20w per channel. Once you know this, THEN you can either:
1. See what replacement wattage speakers you should be shopping for. Putting in higher wattage speakers then what they will receive, will make your system quieter. You should really know what you're working with before shopping.
2. You should at least price out an amp for your main door speakers. If you can pull the head unit, you can see if you have RCA outputs, otherwise you will need a LineOutputConverter. LOCs can be cheap, $20-$50 so that you can grab hold of a signal and install an amp. 100w amps are cheap. You could then add some budget speakers and get more volume out of it, and if you want to upgrade em down the road you would have all the options your budget can handle.
Without knowing the wattage your head unit puts out, you're just guessing, and that should be free and easy to find out.
I also wouldn't add a 3 1/2" woofer even if they made one. Why so it can rattle your dash? I would wait on those, and most likely run those off the head unit. Once you get some upgraded speakers in the door, you can decide what's missing, and get 3 1/2 tweeters, or 3 1/2 mids for the dash.
I don't think you'll go this route, but If I had $175 for a stereo upgrade, and my head unit didn't have GPS or RCA outs, I would start with a head unit. I have no experience with head units as new as 2018, so they might have gotten better.
Where I would start is go pull the front speaker off, and take the wiring off the speaker, and at max volume measure the AC voltage. You can see the reason why in the video. This will tell you the wattage you are getting to the speaker with that head unit.
Stock head units, are NEVER great. My guess is somewhere around low 20w per channel. Once you know this, THEN you can either:
1. See what replacement wattage speakers you should be shopping for. Putting in higher wattage speakers then what they will receive, will make your system quieter. You should really know what you're working with before shopping.
2. You should at least price out an amp for your main door speakers. If you can pull the head unit, you can see if you have RCA outputs, otherwise you will need a LineOutputConverter. LOCs can be cheap, $20-$50 so that you can grab hold of a signal and install an amp. 100w amps are cheap. You could then add some budget speakers and get more volume out of it, and if you want to upgrade em down the road you would have all the options your budget can handle.
Without knowing the wattage your head unit puts out, you're just guessing, and that should be free and easy to find out.
I also wouldn't add a 3 1/2" woofer even if they made one. Why so it can rattle your dash? I would wait on those, and most likely run those off the head unit. Once you get some upgraded speakers in the door, you can decide what's missing, and get 3 1/2 tweeters, or 3 1/2 mids for the dash.
I don't think you'll go this route, but If I had $175 for a stereo upgrade, and my head unit didn't have GPS or RCA outs, I would start with a head unit. I have no experience with head units as new as 2018, so they might have gotten better.
too Fly levi
CarAudio.com Newbie
Go to big jeff on line or Crutchfield they both have systems where you input your car an it gives you all the speekers that will fit.
TheBigPilferer
CarAudio.com Recruit
For budget systems, Recoil Audio is my go to. You can get them direct or on Amazon. You could use the 6.5" coaxial in the rear.
I've personally tried several Recoil speakers, amps, and subs, and have also sold a fair number of them as well. I use their highest-end offerings in my personal vehicle.
Fur front speakers, there are not that many 6 x 9 inch component sets. CDT Audio comes to mind.
You could also use an adapter and buy a set of 6.5" components from Recoil. Both sets would cost you about $100 total.
Id have to check, but I believe recoil does make a 3.5" as well. That's a size I haven't used as it isn't as common. You'd have to buy a pair, but they're like $30.
I've personally tried several Recoil speakers, amps, and subs, and have also sold a fair number of them as well. I use their highest-end offerings in my personal vehicle.
Fur front speakers, there are not that many 6 x 9 inch component sets. CDT Audio comes to mind.
You could also use an adapter and buy a set of 6.5" components from Recoil. Both sets would cost you about $100 total.
Id have to check, but I believe recoil does make a 3.5" as well. That's a size I haven't used as it isn't as common. You'd have to buy a pair, but they're like $30.
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- Thread Starter
- #8
Amazon product ASIN B0B3F7V1YC
Amazon product ASIN B00E6ENB2A
Just purchased both of these. Going to wait on the amplifier to get something quality in the next few weeks. Seems like the NVX at the price point should leave me some good room for more power.
Amazon product ASIN B00E6ENB2A
Just purchased both of these. Going to wait on the amplifier to get something quality in the next few weeks. Seems like the NVX at the price point should leave me some good room for more power.
Last edited:
Ok. You're going to want an amp that will do at least 200w x 4 @ 4ohm RMS, (and I would look for 300w x 4 @4 ohm RMS), and also has independent gain control for ch 1&2, and 3&4.
- Thread Starter
- #10
Any suggestions for the amp please?
TheBigPilferer
CarAudio.com Recruit
You made a good choice on speakers.
For a reasonably priced amp, check out the deaf bonce MFA series. They are compact, make over rated power, and have 4 channel offerings in several different power levels to suit your preference. They also have clip indicators which are handy.
I would have recommended a recoil di1200.4 for $109, but I believe they are still out of stock. The 800.4 is available for about $85 to give you the cheapest option I would recommend. These amps make right at rated power, are small, but lack clipping indicators and I've never liked the fork terminals they use.
If you want a matching system, you could also grab an NVX 4-channel. They're a solid option as well.
There are many other choices that I haven't listed. The most important thing is just to avoid the flea market brands and the cheapest offerings on eBay and Amazon.
Don't forget that you'll need a wiring kit. If you're never going to add a subwoofer, you can just buy an OFC 4 gauge kit like the Kollosus Fleks kit from Knu Konceptz. If you're going to add a subwoofer later, it wouldn't be a bad idea to jump straight into a dual amp kit so you have to do less work later.
For a reasonably priced amp, check out the deaf bonce MFA series. They are compact, make over rated power, and have 4 channel offerings in several different power levels to suit your preference. They also have clip indicators which are handy.
I would have recommended a recoil di1200.4 for $109, but I believe they are still out of stock. The 800.4 is available for about $85 to give you the cheapest option I would recommend. These amps make right at rated power, are small, but lack clipping indicators and I've never liked the fork terminals they use.
If you want a matching system, you could also grab an NVX 4-channel. They're a solid option as well.
There are many other choices that I haven't listed. The most important thing is just to avoid the flea market brands and the cheapest offerings on eBay and Amazon.
Don't forget that you'll need a wiring kit. If you're never going to add a subwoofer, you can just buy an OFC 4 gauge kit like the Kollosus Fleks kit from Knu Konceptz. If you're going to add a subwoofer later, it wouldn't be a bad idea to jump straight into a dual amp kit so you have to do less work later.
- Thread Starter
- #15
Omg thanks for reminding me! No wonder I have sound from only one side of the truck. Gosh I’m so stupid"Need help locating the right speakers"
The rights are always tough, but once you find the right ones, the left ones will be a no brainer!!!
jk thanks for the joke dad
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