Speaker terminals

[Mr FaceCaser]

There are two of those types, gold-plated brass and nickel plated brass, both are great and will prevent oxidations.

Okay thank you I'm gonna go with the nickel platted brass

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Okay thank you I'm gonna go with the nickel platted brass

That would be these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KR72W/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[Mr FaceCaser]

That would be these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KR72W/?tag=caraudiocom-20

How would you solder the wire from the amp to that just solder it to the hole?

 

[Mr FaceCaser]

How would you solder the wire from the amp to that just solder it to the hole?

Never mind I'm stupid I don't wanna solder from the amp I meant from the subs to the back of the terminal

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Straight to the subs with 8 gauge. Silicone or hot glue the hole.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Never mind I'm stupid I don't wanna solder from the amp I meant from the subs to the back of the terminal

I use a butane torch for thick 4-8 gauge wire. For those you could just get ring type crimp connectors. 10-12 gauge is pretty easy to solder with a small butane or a regular iron type soldering gun.

Something like these in the gauge needed would work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8EJOU6/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

I run bolts through the box. Make the holes small enough that you have to thread the bolt in. Ring terminals on the inside to the subs, ring terminals on the outside to the amp.

Added bonus is you don't give money to "small dik designs". I assume that's what smd stands for based on his videos.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I run bolts through the box. Make the holes small enough that you have to thread the bolt in. Ring terminals on the inside to the subs, ring terminals on the outside to the amp.

Added bonus is you don't give money to "small dik designs". I assume that's what smd stands for based on his videos.

Never understood why he goes to such lengths to build monster connectors out of Stainless Steel, terrible conductor.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

Never understood why he goes to such lengths to build monster connectors out of Stainless Steel, terrible conductor.

Stainless steel is perfectly capable of conducting electricity for 2". It's a hard, durable material. Great for the application. I just don't like the arrogant fatass who sells it.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Stainless steel is perfectly capable of conducting electricity for 2". It's a hard, durable material. Great for the application. I just don't like the arrogant fatass who sells it.

True but at those prices, nickel plated copper or brass would be a much better option for speakers, no point in using stainless steel at all. There are cheaper and preferable options. But the bolt-on throughput like you suggested, works well as I have also done that in the past. Nowadays, I just get those Nickle plated brass binding post, soldered and crimped rings inside to the woofer, solder up 8-10 gauge to bananas from the amp, plug and play!

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

True but at those prices, nickel plated copper or brass would be a much better option for speakers, no point in using stainless steel at all. There are cheaper and preferable options. But the bolt-on throughput like you suggested, works well as I have also done that in the past. Nowadays, I just get those Nickle plated brass binding post, soldered and crimped rings inside to the woofer, solder up 8-10 gauge to bananas from the amp, plug and play!

Was this a joke?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Was this a joke?

Only to you man, preferences are preferences, like opinions and ********, everyone has them. I don't care that one only loses .000002 ohms of resistance in a 2" bolt, I'm not a fan introducing anything in the signal path if you have other options. This is my preference - many ways to skin a cat...

 

[chipss36]

A torch or a solder gun and about the worst things to use for this, a solder station with about 60 watts is the ticket , using good kestler solder WITH lead in it, skip the lead free junk.

With the proper tools this is so easy, with the wrong tools you burn insulation, contaminate the joint and so on.
Do not use plumbers solder. It will destroy wire over time.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

A torch or a solder gun and about the worst things to use for this, a solder station with about 60 watts is the ticket , using good kestler solder WITH lead in it, skip the lead free junk.

With the proper tools this is so easy, with the wrong tools you burn insulation, contaminate the joint and so on.
Do not use plumbers solder. It will destroy wire over time.

Well, atourch is necessary evil for 4 gauge and larger, use one all the time for power/ground wire. Iron on everything else. I use rosin and 4% silver on my crossovers, regular Kestler rosin core (leaded) for everything else.

 

[chipss36]

Well, atourch is necessary evil for 4 gauge and larger, use one all the time for power/ground wire. Iron on everything else. I use rosin and 4% silver on my crossovers, regular Kestler rosin core (leaded) for everything else.

No it’s not.
Again a 60w station, is the correct tool.
It works on 1 gage. I solder chassis grounds with it,
Building tube amps.
It’s all about wattage.
A torch will contaminate the joint.
This is not a plumbing job.