System build up for 2013 Ford Raptor

[chrisloung]

Hello there......I am currently looking to do a full system in my 2013 Ford Raptor. It currently has the Sony "premium" system which just does not sound that "premium" to me.

From what I understand with the research that I have already done is that due to having to keep the stock head unit as it contains all of my heating/cooling controls for my seats I need to keep the factory amp in order to get a signal out to any aftermarket amplifiers. Also since this is the factory amp it does not have a good base level for all frequencies therefore it is necessary to buy a processor to sum all of the signals.

I have narrowed down my search for processors to between the Audison Bit1 or the Mosconi 6:8. The only reason I have narrowed down to these two options are that they were both recommended by a local stereo shop and a fello raptor owner respectively. If you have any input, I'm all ears.

My main questions are mainly for what components are recommended for the rest of my build. I only have 1 reputable audio shop nearby so I have limited ability to hear different options for my build.

I have been quoted ~$6000 for all of the components to complete my system by my stereo shop and if I am going to make such a sizeable investment I would like to take into account more recommendations other than one stereo shop nearby and one other raptor owner. I just want to do my due diligence by asking the car audio community what they would recommend as well.

Stereo shop nearby wants to put in Maestro components in the front door and co-ax in the rear. Diamond amplifiers, 4 channel 2 channel for tweeters, and 2 channel for sub, with an Audison Bit1 processor. 2 Audiomobile 10" subs underneath the rear seat. Sound deadening for the doors, floor, and rear wall.

Fellow raptor owner suggests Focal components in front door, ( I forget what line but the one with yellow cones below utopia line), and co-ax in the rea. Arc audio amplifiers, 6 channel and 2 channel, and Mosconi 6:8. 2 Audiomobile 10" subs underneath the rear seat. Focal sound deadener in the doors, floor, rear wall, and roof.

I have only been able to hear the Maestro components and audiomobile subs. I think I am pretty much sold on the subs but if I am going to be spending around $1000 for front components I am open to hearing opinions of other brands since I don't have ability to listen to any. Also if you guys have opinions for other speakers that sound just as nice for less I am definitely open to that.

I listen mostly to hip hop and reggae with a bit of 90s punk thrown in for good measure. Thank you guys very much for all of your input.

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[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

That sounds like an awesome system. I think you mean German Maestro for the speakers. That's not a widely known brand in the US.

 

[marc2112 10+ year member]

Don't buy a bit one. Wait for the new version. Mosconi and Helix are also releasing new dsp's soon.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Hello there......I am currently looking to do a full system in my 2013 Ford Raptor. It currently has the Sony "premium" system which just does not sound that "premium" to me.
From what I understand with the research that I have already done is that due to having to keep the stock head unit as it contains all of my heating/cooling controls for my seats I need to keep the factory amp in order to get a signal out to any aftermarket amplifiers. Also since this is the factory amp it does not have a good base level for all frequencies therefore it is necessary to buy a processor to sum all of the signals.

I have narrowed down my search for processors to between the Audison Bit1 or the Mosconi 6:8. The only reason I have narrowed down to these two options are that they were both recommended by a local stereo shop and a fello raptor owner respectively. If you have any input, I'm all ears.

My main questions are mainly for what components are recommended for the rest of my build. I only have 1 reputable audio shop nearby so I have limited ability to hear different options for my build.

I have been quoted ~$6000 for all of the components to complete my system by my stereo shop and if I am going to make such a sizeable investment I would like to take into account more recommendations other than one stereo shop nearby and one other raptor owner. I just want to do my due diligence by asking the car audio community what they would recommend as well.

Stereo shop nearby wants to put in Maestro components in the front door and co-ax in the rear. Diamond amplifiers, 4 channel 2 channel for tweeters, and 2 channel for sub, with an Audison Bit1 processor. 2 Audiomobile 10" subs underneath the rear seat. Sound deadening for the doors, floor, and rear wall.

Fellow raptor owner suggests Focal components in front door, ( I forget what line but the one with yellow cones below utopia line), and co-ax in the rea. Arc audio amplifiers, 6 channel and 2 channel, and Mosconi 6:8. 2 Audiomobile 10" subs underneath the rear seat. Focal sound deadener in the doors, floor, rear wall, and roof.

I have only been able to hear the Maestro components and audiomobile subs. I think I am pretty much sold on the subs but if I am going to be spending around $1000 for front components I am open to hearing opinions of other brands since I don't have ability to listen to any. Also if you guys have opinions for other speakers that sound just as nice for less I am definitely open to that.

I listen mostly to hip hop and reggae with a bit of 90s punk thrown in for good measure. Thank you guys very much for all of your input.

Dont have anything for the rear. Get that arc audio 6 channel and do a 3 way front setup active aka no passive crossovers all wired straight to the amp and crossed over by the DSP. you can have either midbass in the doors and 4 inch midrange and tweeter in the A pillar or you can have midbass in the doors, midrange in the kick panel. Either way if you spend 6k, you'll want the best SQ system out there and the best SQ system does not involve ANY rear speakers whatsoever. This will involve custom fiberglass work but its well worth it.

You can go german maestro or arc audio black 3 way set or focal 3 way set. Neither should disappoint when you tune it properly, they should all sound VERY similar.

With a 3 way set, you'll have every driver focusing on the proper frequencies while everything is up front to create a concert on your dash. You dont go to a concert with your back facing the band so anything in the rear actually destroys your soundstage width and depth by pulling the sound to the rear. Really destroys any realism you want out of the sound at that point.

Dont get a 2 channel for the subwoofers... that is beyond ghetto... do a proper monoblock.

 

[chrisloung]

Thank you for the quick replies. One of my wants for this system is for it to look as stock as possible.

1) Yes, I am referring to German Maestro components. I was recommended to go with the status line, ~$650/set. I do feel like they sounded pretty good being on a sound wall and was told that they would be able to take some good power. The only thing that I did not like was that the tweeter will not fit in the stock location on the A-pillar.

2) I was thinking about doing a 3-way set in the front initially but eventually decided against it as I did not want to alter the look of my interior too much.

3) When are these new DSP's supposed to be coming out and are there going to be any advantages to waiting for these to be released or will they be only cosmetic upgrades.

4) Anyone have any recommendations for different speakers or amps or are what I have listed good enough. Which amps would you recommend, the Diamond or the Arc Audio. Any other suggestions?

5) Is this all overkill for a truck that will have an exhaust and be "worked" well off road, Trips to Baja, Glamis, and Pismo.

 

[garychoffmann 10+ year member]

It's never overkill. I put a rather nice system in a 47 willys that had a pontiac 400 headers and dumps and sat on 35's. I still enjoyed the system.

 

[dbjunior 10+ year member]

You will want to use more than just sounddeadener you will also want mlv and ccf. Either processor will be a great choice, yes there will be new models but that wont change the fact that they are still great units. Go 3 way front just put the mid in a custom kick panel and the midbass and tweeter in factory location should still look stock if done well.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

If you're just dropping speakers into factory locations I'd say don't bother over-spending on premium brand names. A set of 250$ JBL components in proper locations would outperform a 1200$ set of European components in stock locations.

All those DSP/factory integration units should be more of less comparable.

 

[BCotrell]

That shop that quoted you is straight doin the money dance if you walk in And lay down the dough for that 6k estimate. if your primary thoughts on that stock Sony system is that it doesn't sound so premier, why on earth would you jump to a ridiculously expensive lineup of European components to build an sq system. Are the drunkards at glamis really going to

Be impressed with the precise clarity of your 6k system. Find a shop that wants to meet your sound goals, not take double your money.

 

[chrisloung]

So I am now thinking of doing 3-way in front after your suggestions. something like this. What 3 way sets do you recommend or piecing together a set.

Also, I'm not doing the system for the drunkards at Glamis but for my enjoyment while I am driving. Just didn't want to spend a bunch of money on something that is only marginally better than a cheaper system while I am driving on and off road at full tilt than while I am sitting in the parking lot or my driveway.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Just didn't want to spend a bunch of money on something that is only marginally better than a cheaper system

90% of this will be in the install and particularly locations and aiming of speakers. What you have pictured there is a good start for proper imaging. Still at some point you hit a point of very diminishing returns. For example an 8$ cigar is usually that much better than a 4$ one, but an 80$ one is nothing like 10X better than the 8$ one. Same with high end booze or other luxury items. There's a point where you're only paying for the name and prestige of having spent so much money. Mind you, anything you've discussed is really nice, but don't think you need to break the bank to get equipment capable of world class sound.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So I am now thinking of doing 3-way in front after your suggestions. something like this. What 3 way sets do you recommend or piecing together a set.
Also, I'm not doing the system for the drunkards at Glamis but for my enjoyment while I am driving. Just didn't want to spend a bunch of money on something that is only marginally better than a cheaper system while I am driving on and off road at full tilt than while I am sitting in the parking lot or my driveway.

Since you already have a processor, If you want the best, i'd say scanspeak relevator series with an arc audio 6 channel. Heard it in a world MECA SQ competition finalist vehicle, most absolute amazing system ever. However his knowledge of tuning along with all the test equipment he has to properly tune stuff is off the charts. Not something your everyday "so called high end" audio shop can even come close to.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

I always say kiss..

Keep

It

Simple

stupid

First things first is sealing the doors at the least. Its helps drastically in the midbass region.

Second dampen/deaden the doors.Cld tiles are perfect for this.

3rd step is finding the correct midrange for the volume you have while giving you the f3 you desire.

Next is choosing a tweeter to blend with the midbass/range and placing the tweeter correctly.

More than half this is the install.

Also a cool trick to break up standing waves and reduce refraction against the cone is putting of of those cardboard egg crates directly behind the driver..

I always suggest putting the mids close to on-axis as possible. The more off axis it is the worse the mid-range is.

You don't need a highend dsp.

Most cd players have time alignment so you can adjust phase between each speaker. Its nice to have a good eq but most cd players have 13 or more bands that will be plenty for a daily setup.

In essence you need to properly house aim and place your drivers.

A solid 4 channel amp and a nice clean highly controlled feedback based sub amp 500 watts with a pair of subs would be more than enough to fill the low end.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

DC-1004 - Zapco 4-Channel Class A/B Full Range Amplifier

X-65 - Image Dynamics 6.5" High Definition Mid-Bass Drivers with Composite Rohacell Cone

MD102 - Dynaudio 1.1" Soft Dome Tweeters

SD-3 12 D4 - Sundown Audio 12" 500W RMS Dual 4-Ohm SD Series Subwoofer

Z-1KD - Zapco Monoblock Class D Sound Q Bass Amplifier

CDE-HD149BT - Alpine In-Dash CD/MP3/USB Car Stereo Receiver with Bluetooth, HD Radio, SiriusXM and iPod / iPhone Control and Pandora Support

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

KDC-X998 - Kenwood Excelon CD/MP3 Stereo Receiver with SiriusXM Radio

DEH-80PRS - Pioneer CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network Auto EQ and Auto Time Alignment