System rebuild (box builders)

EpicMango
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
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Colorado
So I will be selling my OA 15 D4 and the box to my best friend. I was so impressed with my OA15 that I've decided that I'm going to stick with OA, and get the D2 version and wire it down to 1 ohm on my ASPM-1500 and turn the gain down a lot, because I know my car can't handle 1300 watts RMS.

With my current D4 @ 2 ohms around 600-700 watts RMS after gain, I dim slightly, so I'm going to have the gain way down when I get the D2, but that basically ensures I'll never ever clip which is nice.

As some of you might remember, the box for my OA15 was not optimal, the port was too small and after displacment the box was 3.1cubes, and apparently that wasn't enough for optimal performance.

So here I am. My main goal is to put the sub in the perfect box that will bring out its SQL in perfect harmony.

Here are some questions;

1. What should the optimal box size be? I am thinking the same 3.4cubes, but I don't know if thats going to be after or before displacment. Thats really my only question.

2. Apparently, according to a few, my speaker wire was on the small side. Hypothetically, what different would I NOTICE if I went to the appropriate sized speaker wire for my setup. I don't plan to go over 800 watts RMS as I don't need to push the sub any more, I think its already loud as **** in my current ****** box on 600-700 watts RMS.

So all box builders, help me put my future OA15 D2 in a perfect home //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Here's a pictures of my current setup if you forgot :p

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003-1.jpg


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when ever you design an enclosure the "box size" is always after all port and sub displacements. Also you may notice a slight increase in bass if your current wire is to small, how ever the real change is in safety I have burnt wire in my car before it's not fun and is a huge fire hazard.

 
So I will be selling my OA 15 D4 and the box to my best friend. I was so impressed with my OA15 that I've decided that I'm going to stick with OA, and get the D2 version and wire it down to 1 ohm on my ASPM-1500 and turn the gain down a lot, because I know my car can't handle 1300 watts RMS.
With my current D4 @ 2 ohms around 600-700 watts RMS after gain, I dim slightly, so I'm going to have the gain way down when I get the D2, but that basically ensures I'll never ever clip which is nice.

As some of you might remember, the box for my OA15 was not optimal, the port was too small and after displacment the box was 3.1cubes, and apparently that wasn't enough for optimal performance.

So here I am. My main goal is to put the sub in the perfect box that will bring out its SQL in perfect harmony.

Here are some questions;

1. What should the optimal box size be? I am thinking the same 3.4cubes, but I don't know if thats going to be after or before displacment. Thats really my only question.

2. Apparently, according to a few, my speaker wire was on the small side. Hypothetically, what different would I NOTICE if I went to the appropriate sized speaker wire for my setup. I don't plan to go over 800 watts RMS as I don't need to push the sub any more, I think its already loud as **** in my current ****** box on 600-700 watts RMS.

So all box builders, help me put my future OA15 D2 in a perfect home //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

HUH? lemme get this straight, you want to sell a perfectly good sub and buy another one identical to it, so you can decrease the amplifier efficiency and sound quality, which will force you to set your gains improperly in an attempt to maintain the same amplifier output?? You do not mention the HU you use, therefore I will assume you wish to increase the chances of clipping the signal from the HU? LOL....and what gains do you feel you will accomplish by decreasing amplifier sound quality and efficiency?

Just build a box that would benefit the sub you already have and do a big 3.

 
a big 3 will probably make him dim More. I would also like to know how wiring to 1ohm will make him set his gains wrong to achieve same output?
I dont get that part either but it will lower the amplifiers efficiency and be a bigger strain on the electrical.

 
HUH? lemme get this straight, you want to sell a perfectly good sub and buy another one identical to it, so you can decrease the amplifier efficiency and sound quality, which will force you to set your gains improperly in an attempt to maintain the same amplifier output?? You do not mention the HU you use, therefore I will assume you wish to increase the chances of clipping the signal from the HU? LOL....and what gains do you feel you will accomplish by decreasing amplifier sound quality and efficiency?
Just build a box that would benefit the sub you already have and do a big 3.
#1 : ****** Boss deck, I plan to change it out with a quality brand name deck, as I've started on working on my car, I just finished building my computer //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

#2 . I am decreasing amp efficiency and sound quality by wiring down to 1 ohm on a 1 ohm stable amp? Please clarify.

Whats wrong with D2 wired at 1 ohm vs a D4 wired at 2 ohms, both on a 1 ohm stable amp..?

I want to do 800 watts to it, no more. I just thought that doing a 1 ohm load was the most efficient way. But if doing it at 2 ohms is less strain on the electrical, I'll do 2 ohms and get a D4.

And I am not going to be getting any louder than whats possible with 800 watts on it. I like my hearing, and I am already perfectly content with my current system. Since I have the opportunity to improve it, I am going to do it, but I am not, and nor do I want to, be getting any louder than 140dB. Don't need to do a Big 3 when I don't want that much power running to my sub in the first place..

 
a big 3 will probably make him dim More. I would also like to know how wiring to 1ohm will make him set his gains wrong to achieve same output?
I see you questioning the Big 3, it is only an improvement if the proper type of battery is also put in place and appropriate wiring is used...I thought you had an understanding of gain function. I guess not.. The function of the gain pot on the amplifier is to sync the input section of the amp to accomodate the incoming voltage from the next component up the chain. (HU, line driver, etc.). It is not a volume control as per popular belief. A very simple concept, even most owner manuals clarify this.

Too much gain increases the risk of over driving the amplifiers' inputs.

Not enough gain increases the risk of over driving the source outputs.

Very simple concept and function.

 
#1 : ****** Boss deck, I plan to change it out with a quality brand name deck, as I've started on working on my car, I just finished building my computer //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
#2 . I am decreasing amp efficiency and sound quality by wiring down to 1 ohm on a 1 ohm stable amp? Please clarify.

Whats wrong with D2 wired at 1 ohm vs a D4 wired at 2 ohms, both on a 1 ohm stable amp..?

I want to do 800 watts to it, no more. I just thought that doing a 1 ohm load was the most efficient way. But if doing it at 2 ohms is less strain on the electrical, I'll do 2 ohms and get a D4.

And I am not going to be getting any louder. I like my hearing, and I am already perfectly content with my current system. Since I have the opportunity to improve it, I am going to do it, but I am not, and nor do I want to, be getting any louder than 140dB. Don't need to do a Big 3 when I don't want that much power running to my sub in the first place..
I apologize for sounding sarcastic. When the resistance to the amplifier is lowered, there is more current throughput(Amperage). 800 watts is 800 watts, but at 4ohms, the amplifier is most efficient and the signal is kept it it's cleanest. As the resistance load is decreased, the amplifier has to deal with more current and in doing so, loses efficiency and sound quality to produce the same watt. And there are many different amp designs that operate at 2ohms minimum with better efficiency and SQ than those that operate at 1ohm. 1ohm stability is a sign of build quality. If you are getting the volume you desire at 2ohms, then do not destabilize the amp any further because the result will be a loss in efficiency and sound quality. The difference in efficiency between 2ohms and 1ohm is usually twice the difference between 4ohm and 2ohms. The harmonic distortion introduced to the signal can be exponential between 4ohms and 1ohm operation.

 
Okay. So it looks like I'll be sticking with 2 ohms and getting a D4 driver.

As for speaker wire, I think that its cheap enough that I can justify just replacing it. Can anybody link me to an eBay item that will suffice for my setup. I plan to wire at 2 ohms probably 600-800 watts RMS. No used items just new. I'd probably need like 4-5 feet.

Now I just need box clarifications. So far I know that I need a box that is 3.6cubic feet so after displacment I can achieve 3.4 cubes. I don't know if I can fit 3.6 cubes with dimensions not exceeding 32x16x18 tuned at 32hz...Can somebody do a quick calculation to see how big the box can be with those dimensions before displacment?

 
Just get some of the audiopipe 8ga that ram designs was selling, its the same stuff I use, was running 700rms before rise to my G5s.

You would greatly benefit by having a better designed box. That tiny little mail slot you call a port is too small and exceeds the 9:1 ratio which will cause all sorts of issues with output. Who designed that box?

And what the fuck is holding your amp down? Looks like its just sitting there...

 
A new enclosure would help with output and sound. The speaker wire won't change anything to your ear at all.

From the pic it looks like the port is very thin as well. I would still do sub port forward, but adjust volume and port area to work better with the subwoofer. Tuning would be more dependent on the application and goals...

 
I see you questioning the Big 3, it is only an improvement if the proper type of battery is also put in place and appropriate wiring is used...I thought you had an understanding of gain function. I guess not.. The function of the gain pot on the amplifier is to sync the input section of the amp to accomodate the incoming voltage from the next component up the chain. (HU, line driver, etc.). It is not a volume control as per popular belief. A very simple concept, even most owner manuals clarify this.
Too much gain increases the risk of over driving the amplifiers' inputs.

Not enough gain increases the risk of over driving the source outputs.

Very simple concept and function.
lol I know what a gain is, it will how ever allow you to run less speakers by turning it down. I'm guessing you never heard the term over head before.

 
Just get some of the audiopipe 8ga that ram designs was selling, its the same stuff I use, was running 700rms before rise to my G5s.
You would greatly benefit by having a better designed box. That tiny little mail slot you call a port is too small and exceeds the 9:1 ratio which will cause all sorts of issues with output. Who designed that box?
Thats what this thread was for. I want a couple people to give me some ideas for a new box. ssteele18 is gonna be my designer, but I have also hit up 2 other builders. I just need specifications to start with.

I'm thinking 3.4cubes after displacment tuned to 30hz. I like the lows better than the highs. The type of lows that "fill" yours ears with bass instead of force them in, know what I mean? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

The kid that built my box was younger than me (I'm 19). I said 3.4 cubes tuned at 32hz and this was his outcome. I have realized that he's a good box builder, but just a builder, not a designer. I'm going to go to him again, but this time with detailed blueprints that somebody provides me on here. $100 for a new box by him //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

And what the fuck is holding your amp down? Looks like its just sitting there...
Screws are holding down the amp on 3 corners. I constantly put my seatback, back up and it stays put.

 
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EpicMango

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