Wiring / mono amplifier 2 subwoofers / 4 channel amplifier bridged for 2 speakers

[PatLap]

Hi everyone! Would someone be kind enough to help me!? It's my first time trying to install an audio system in my vehicle. The goal is to check if I'm doing things correctly, you're the experts , I'm a beginner LOL. That was my project this winter, which was to learn everything I could about audio systems. The more I learned it seems like it was getting more and more complicated... without knowing if I really understood correctly. I hope I'm not completely in the field HAHAHA .

I keep in mind that alot of you have busy lives but i really need your advice. If someone is willing to help, give me a thumbs up and introduce yourself! Then i will "paste" here in the comments all the ''very'' detailed text I've already written about how i planned to install everything. I almost wrote a book LOL . If it's possible i will also attach everything that could be useful to you for reference like all the user's manuals for my two amplifiers and subwoofers, technical sheets, specs, factory radio harnesses with reference numbers... I also made a drawing with all the components and wiring so it will be easier for you.

***If you think of another way that it would be easier to communicate and understand each other, feel free to suggest. In life, it always comes back to us. ...and I'll be proud to have done all the installation by myself! I've been thinking about this all winter... I can't wait to install everything . Thanks in advance, i really appreciate!

Click to read more...

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Fire away, rise to the challenge, love to assist!

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

. I also made a drawing with all the components and wiring so it will be easier for you.

Post the drawing and gear you plan to use.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Always interesting to listen and learn myself. There are a quite a bit new things that are on the market. I enjoy new builds either large or small. Be interesting to see what you have in the works.

 

[PatLap]

OHHH YESSS!

Thanks Be ready to get lots of info Lol!
***Sorry for the delay of my reply, I've been trying all morning to figure out why my attachments are appearing sideways! I tryed everything and still doesn't work...

TO BEGIN WITH:

I have a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport (Luxury sport utility AWD 2.4L).

--------Line output converter / bass knob / Alpine MRP-M650 amplifier-------

I'm keeping the factory radio and there are no RCA jacks behind it. So I need a "Line Output Converter". My Alpine MRP-M650 amplifier doesn't have a “plug-in” for a bass knob. I would like to have one because if i want to adjust the bass on the touch screen i have to press up to 6 different options to get there. It's not practical when you change songs or style of music... and the risk of going sideways on the road . So I will need a universal bass knob that works with RCA jacks for my two subwoofers. I will therefore have to “TAP” on the speaker wires of the harness behind the radio with the “Line Output Converter” to get the signal. So, I guess I can't use the “speaker level input” harness on my amplifier. I looked at many reviews and what I chose proved very well. The “Line Output Converter” that I chose is the “Kicker 46KISLOC2” which has a “remote turn-on output” (so no need to connect to 12v). As for the “bass knob”, I would choose either the “PAC LC-1” (RCA input and output only)… OR …the “CT-Sounds with voltmeter” (RCA input and output with blue, red, yellow and black wires which is on the wiring sketch i made).

------Alpine SWS-1223D Subwoofers-------

An Alpine SWS-1223D subwoofer is a 12” dual voice coil (2 Ohms + 2 Ohms). I have two of these subwoofers. Each has 300W RMS in a two-compartment sealed box. For these, I use my Alpine MRP-M650 amplifier which delivers 600W RMS × 1 at 2 Ohms (continuous). So I want to wire the subwoofers together to get 2 Ohms for the amplifier. So, the subwoofers will receive 300W RMS each.

---------Front door lower speakers / Alpine MRP-F200 amplifier----------

I also want to replace the lower front door speakers but I haven't chosen them yet. There are already separate tweeters above each door and I will keep those. So, for these two “speakers”, I will use my 4-channel MRP-F200 amplifier which delivers 100W RMS × 2 “bridged at 4 Ohms” (continuous). To do so, I followed the instructions in the MRP-F200 user manual (figure #9) at the bottom of the document to hook it up “bridged at 4 Ohms”. According to figure #9 I have to connect with RCA wires so I cannot use the "speaker level input" harness to get the signal... if I understand correctly.

--------EVEN THOUGH I'VE DONE LOTS OF RESEARCH, I STILL HAVE QUESTIONS...--------

#1 On the drawing, inside the subwoofer box, it was already wired when i bought it (see picture attached). Each subwoofer has a "jumper cable" inside. The way I wired the subwoofers outside the box, I made two jumper cables and connected the subwoofer wire coming from the MRP-M650 amplifier and did a "TAP" on each one. Is this the way to do it? ...and does that give me 2 Ohms for my MRP-M650 amplifier?

#2 NOTE: BOTH AMPLIFIERS WILL BE UNDER THE FRONT SEATS OF THE VEHICLE.

I've done my research and I already have an idea but I would like to have your opinion just to make sure...

- What wire size do you recommend for the subwoofers if the MRP-M650 amplifier gives 300W RMS ×2?

- What wire size for the two lower “speakers” of the front doors if the MRP-F200 amplifier gives 100W RMS ×2?

- What wire size for the "Power and Ground cable?

- Are 20 or 18 gauge (which I already have) suitable for the wires of the “CT-Sounds bass knob” and for the “remote” wires that goes to the amplifiers?

#3 Is it really necessary to have a voltmeter for the system (“bass knob CT-Sounds with voltmeter” as shown in my drawing) OR can I just use the “bass knob PAC LC-1” without a voltmeter?

***The "PAC LC-1 bass knob" is 4 times cheaper and much easier to install because it's just RCA'S (input and output)...

#4 If you recommend the “CT-Sounds bass knob with voltmeter”, by pushing the control button you can turn the MRP-M650 amplifier on or off. The PAC LC-1 bass knob can only control the bass but cannot turn the amplifier on or off. So, will the “remote” wires of the two amplifiers automatically turn off the 2 amplifiers if I “TAP” them on the “remote antenna #18” wire of the 24 pin harness (refer to harnesses description picture) of the radio when I turn off the engine? ...I wouldn't want to run out my battery...

***I am writing and I have the impression of being completely in the field...

#5 If I understand correctly, the radio volume will control all the car's speakers and subwoofers? As for the “bass knob”, it is only used to adjust the bass of the subwoofers?

#6 There are two 30A fuses on the MRP-M650 amplifier for the subwoofers. Is a 60A breaker OK near the battery?

#7 There is a 25A fuse on the MRP-F200 amplifier for the front speakers. I couldn't find a 25A breaker for a car, I don't think it exists. There are only 20A or 30A “breakers”. Can I get one of the two? If yes, which one?

***I would like “breakers” for the simple reason that you can press “reset” and no need to replace fuses. On the other hand, if I have no choice but to put a 25A fuse for the MRP-F200 amplifier, I will do so.

#8 In the user's manual for the MRP-M650 amplifier (page 8, fig.4) they mention that it may be necessary in certain conditions for the "remote turn-on lead" wire of the amplifier to be connected to a “switched power source” like “ignition”. It also mentions that maybe it would be necessary to install a "switch" and a 3A fuse near the "ignition" TAP!?!? If we're talking about "ignition" it's probably #7 on the 24 pin harness of the radio (refer to harnesses description picture). I don't really understand this page #8 and figure 4 either. Do i really need all this for the MRP-M650? Should i also do the same thing for the MRP-F200 amplifier even if it is not mentioned in the user's manual!?

*If this is the case, I don't know exactly where to "TAP" and how to wire the 3A fuses and the "switch"!?!?...

#9 On my wiring sketch, wherever I connect the wires, please check if I "TAP" at the right places to get the signal (see picture of harnesses description)... if that is the way to do it. ..

… AND FINALLY… HAHAHA

#10 Nowhere could I find the dimensions for the depth of the “speakers” at the bottom of the front doors to find a good “fit”! I even called Hyundai and they don't have that either. The only thing I found was the size of the speakers on Crutchfield.ca and they say 6 ½” OR 6 ¾”. Why two sizes, it seems to me that it's not possible? One or the other must have a support for installation right?!?!

***On Crutchfield.ca, they ask if there is a logo on the front speaker grills and mine doesn't have one.

I also checked on Amazon but when I choose my vehicle, they don't give any suggestions for “speakers” no idea why... Do you know if there is a website that exists to see what speakers fits in my vehicle?

-What specifications do you recommend? -How many watts RMS?... 2-way?, 3-way?, midrange?, fullrange, coaxial!?!?

*From what I understand, a 2-way midrange speaker would be ok... if it exists LOL I'm all mixed up, I've listened to too many videos! LOL I don't want to invest too much but i still want something decent. My budget is tight... off work since 2021.

Told you it was long to read hahaha.

Take your time

Thank you very much, i really appreciate!

 

[PatLap]

OHHH YESSS!

Thanks Be ready to get lots of info Lol!
***Sorry for the delay of my reply, I've been trying all morning to figure out why my attachments are appearing sideways! I tryed everything and still doesn't work...

TO BEGIN WITH:

I have a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport (Luxury sport utility AWD 2.4L).

--------Line output converter / bass knob / Alpine MRP-M650 amplifier-------

I'm keeping the factory radio and there are no RCA jacks behind it. So I need a "Line Output Converter". My Alpine MRP-M650 amplifier doesn't have a “plug-in” for a bass knob. I would like to have one because if i want to adjust the bass on the touch screen i have to press up to 6 different options to get there. It's not practical when you change songs or style of music... and the risk of going sideways on the road . So I will need a universal bass knob that works with RCA jacks for my two subwoofers. I will therefore have to “TAP” on the speaker wires of the harness behind the radio with the “Line Output Converter” to get the signal. So, I guess I can't use the “speaker level input” harness on my amplifier. I looked at many reviews and what I chose proved very well. The “Line Output Converter” that I chose is the “Kicker 46KISLOC2” which has a “remote turn-on output” (so no need to connect to 12v). As for the “bass knob”, I would choose either the “PAC LC-1” (RCA input and output only)… OR …the “CT-Sounds with voltmeter” (RCA input and output with blue, red, yellow and black wires which is on the wiring sketch i made).

------Alpine SWS-1223D Subwoofers-------

An Alpine SWS-1223D subwoofer is a 12” dual voice coil (2 Ohms + 2 Ohms). I have two of these subwoofers. Each has 300W RMS in a two-compartment sealed box. For these, I use my Alpine MRP-M650 amplifier which delivers 600W RMS × 1 at 2 Ohms (continuous). So I want to wire the subwoofers together to get 2 Ohms for the amplifier. So, the subwoofers will receive 300W RMS each.

---------Front door lower speakers / Alpine MRP-F200 amplifier----------

I also want to replace the lower front door speakers but I haven't chosen them yet. There are already separate tweeters above each door and I will keep those. So, for these two “speakers”, I will use my 4-channel MRP-F200 amplifier which delivers 100W RMS × 2 “bridged at 4 Ohms” (continuous). To do so, I followed the instructions in the MRP-F200 user manual (figure #9) at the bottom of the document to hook it up “bridged at 4 Ohms”. According to figure #9 I have to connect with RCA wires so I cannot use the "speaker level input" harness to get the signal... if I understand correctly.

--------EVEN THOUGH I'VE DONE LOTS OF RESEARCH, I STILL HAVE QUESTIONS...--------

#1 On the drawing, inside the subwoofer box, it was already wired when i bought it (see picture attached). Each subwoofer has a "jumper cable" inside. The way I wired the subwoofers outside the box, I made two jumper cables and connected the subwoofer wire coming from the MRP-M650 amplifier and did a "TAP" on each one. Is this the way to do it? ...and does that give me 2 Ohms for my MRP-M650 amplifier?

#2 NOTE: BOTH AMPLIFIERS WILL BE UNDER THE FRONT SEATS OF THE VEHICLE.

I've done my research and I already have an idea but I would like to have your opinion just to make sure...

- What wire size do you recommend for the subwoofers if the MRP-M650 amplifier gives 300W RMS ×2?

- What wire size for the two lower “speakers” of the front doors if the MRP-F200 amplifier gives 100W RMS ×2?

- What wire size for the "Power and Ground cable?

- Are 20 or 18 gauge (which I already have) suitable for the wires of the “CT-Sounds bass knob” and for the “remote” wires that goes to the amplifiers?

#3 Is it really necessary to have a voltmeter for the system (“bass knob CT-Sounds with voltmeter” as shown in my drawing) OR can I just use the “bass knob PAC LC-1” without a voltmeter?

***The "PAC LC-1 bass knob" is 4 times cheaper and much easier to install because it's just RCA'S (input and output)...

#4 If you recommend the “CT-Sounds bass knob with voltmeter”, by pushing the control button you can turn the MRP-M650 amplifier on or off. The PAC LC-1 bass knob can only control the bass but cannot turn the amplifier on or off. So, will the “remote” wires of the two amplifiers automatically turn off the 2 amplifiers if I “TAP” them on the “remote antenna #18” wire of the 24 pin harness (refer to harnesses description picture) of the radio when I turn off the engine? ...I wouldn't want to run out my battery...

***I am writing and I have the impression of being completely in the field...

#5 If I understand correctly, the radio volume will control all the car's speakers and subwoofers? As for the “bass knob”, it is only used to adjust the bass of the subwoofers?

#6 There are two 30A fuses on the MRP-M650 amplifier for the subwoofers. Is a 60A breaker OK near the battery?

#7 There is a 25A fuse on the MRP-F200 amplifier for the front speakers. I couldn't find a 25A breaker for a car, I don't think it exists. There are only 20A or 30A “breakers”. Can I get one of the two? If yes, which one?

***I would like “breakers” for the simple reason that you can press “reset” and no need to replace fuses. On the other hand, if I have no choice but to put a 25A fuse for the MRP-F200 amplifier, I will do so.

#8 In the user's manual for the MRP-M650 amplifier (page 8, fig.4) they mention that it may be necessary in certain conditions for the "remote turn-on lead" wire of the amplifier to be connected to a “switched power source” like “ignition”. It also mentions that maybe it would be necessary to install a "switch" and a 3A fuse near the "ignition" TAP!?!? If we're talking about "ignition" it's probably #7 on the 24 pin harness of the radio (refer to harnesses description picture). I don't really understand this page #8 and figure 4 either. Do i really need all this for the MRP-M650? Should i also do the same thing for the MRP-F200 amplifier even if it is not mentioned in the user's manual!?

*If this is the case, I don't know exactly where to "TAP" and how to wire the 3A fuses and the "switch"!?!?...

#9 On my wiring sketch, wherever I connect the wires, please check if I "TAP" at the right places to get the signal (see picture of harnesses description)... if that is the way to do it. ..

… AND FINALLY… HAHAHA

#10 Nowhere could I find the dimensions for the depth of the “speakers” at the bottom of the front doors to find a good “fit”! I even called Hyundai and they don't have that either. The only thing I found was the size of the speakers on Crutchfield.ca and they say 6 ½” OR 6 ¾”. Why two sizes, it seems to me that it's not possible? One or the other must have a support for installation right?!?!

***On Crutchfield.ca, they ask if there is a logo on the front speaker grills and mine doesn't have one.

I also checked on Amazon but when I choose my vehicle, they don't give any suggestions for “speakers” no idea why... Do you know if there is a website that exists to see what speakers fits in my vehicle?

-What specifications do you recommend? -How many watts RMS?... 2-way?, 3-way?, midrange?, fullrange, coaxial!?!?

*From what I understand, a 2-way midrange speaker would be ok... if it exists LOL I'm all mixed up, I've listened to too many videos! LOL I don't want to invest too much but i still want something decent. My budget is tight... off work since 2021.

Told you it was long to read hahaha.

Take your time

Thank you very much, i really appreciate!

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

First off, nice preinstallation thought and work - unfortunately, the site is having issues with attachments and once we have cleared up a few things, may want to use the MS snipping tool to post pics, cant seem to open the attachments.

I think you you should reconsider the approach. To assess the viability of the tweeters or any remaining OEM speakers, need to know what the factory systems that you're replacing.

A better option for the LOC is something like the Audiocontrol Lc2i pro which does everything you want and more and includes the remote bass control knob.

Then we need to address the speaker thoughts. If the the sound is good already, why are you keeping any of the speakers that are currently in use? The difference in aftermarket speakers/tweeters is often pretty significant and the cost relative to this is not the great.

Do you want rear fill? Looks like you have 2.75 to 3" "fill" speaker openings for the sport, just an option, not needed for good sound up front.

I'm not a fan of mixing and matching aftermarket speakers with OEM stuff, it's done, just not an option I work with as it tends to diminish the potential of the initial investment and the cost difference is minimal, comparatively speaker-ing.

That said, it appears that the upper door speakers have a 2.75" driver which may be a tweeter, may be an OEM wideband (mid/tweet) driver, not sure.

Before anyone gets into the wiring options (gauge, how and why) need to make sure we visit these options up front.

Most importantly after deciding on the speaker options up front (and the rear?), what's the budget. Once we have this info, the rest will follow.

 

[PatLap]

Thanks for replying if i understood correctly, you can't open any files or pics... I've tried everything but... I've been trying all day to figure out a way for you to see the attachments by putting the full pictures here in the comments but nothing seems to work! If i put a picrure here, it appears but you can only see half of the picture! And sometimes the picture appears and then dissappears! Something is really not working. Maybe by e-mail but it's up to you...

To be honest, i really don't have a big budget. Just enough to replace the front speakers and buy speaker and ground wires. I'm always alone in my vehicle so no need for rear speakers... And, I already have RCA wires from my old setup and that's why i chose to wire everything that way with the RCA'S. The small Kicker LOC and the bass knob PAC LC-1 is not expensive and proved very well when i checked the reviews. And these all works with RCA'S that i already have. The Audiocontrol Lc2i pro with bass knob is near 200$...

Thanks again

 

[PatLap]

.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Okay, well then, sounds like you have done your homework. I've used the Kicker LOC, it's a sold performer and you do get the added benefit of the remote turn on.

Her ya go!

“#1 On the drawing, inside the subwoofer box, it was already wired when i bought it (see picture attached). Each subwoofer has a "jumper cable" inside. The way I wired the subwoofers outside the box, I made two jumper cables and connected the subwoofer wire coming from the MRP-M650 amplifier and did a "TAP" on each one. Is this the way to do it? ...and does that give me 2 Ohms for my MRP-M650 amplifier?”

The wiring you show is a series connection and provides you with a 4 ohm load to the amplifier- 400 watts, and the only option as the amp is not 1 ohm stable (the other wiring option)


#2 NOTE: BOTH AMPLIFIERS WILL BE UNDER THE FRONT SEATS OF THE VEHICLE.
I've done my research and I already have an idea but I would like to have your opinion just to make sure..- What wire size do you recommend for the subwoofers if the MRP-M650 amplifier gives 300W RMS ×2?- What wire size for the two lower “speakers” of the front doors if the MRP-F200 amplifier gives 100W RMS ×2?

Use 16 gauge for the front door speakers or comps depending on what you do up front, from the amp to the subs 12 gauge.


- What wire size for the "Power and Ground cable?

4 gauge to the amp area, 2 way distribution block, 8 gauge to the amps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6PGBTYV/?tag=caraudiocom-20



1 25 amp fuse (60 is included with the distro block

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D9ISXW6/?tag=caraudiocom-20


- Are 20 or 18 gauge (which I already have) suitable for the wires of the “CT-Sounds bass knob” and for the “remote” wires that goes to the amplifiers?

Either is fine.


#3 Is it really necessary to have a voltmeter for the system (“bass knob CT-Sounds with voltmeter” as shown in my drawing) OR can I just use the “bass knob PAC LC-1” without a voltmeter?

I would not bother with a volt meter knob, get the 5 pin (Rj11 type) remote knob that came with the amp for best results.

$20

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1341270469...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1


***The "PAC LC-1 bass knob" is 4 times cheaper and much easier to install because it's just RCA'S (input and output)...

See last suggestion, no need.


#4 If you recommend the “CT-Sounds bass knob with voltmeter”, by pushing the control button you can turn the MRP-M650 amplifier on or off. The PAC LC-1 bass knob can only control the bass but cannot turn the amplifier on or off. So, will the “remote” wires of the two amplifiers automatically turn off the 2 amplifiers if I “TAP” them on the “remote antenna #18” wire of the 24 pin harness (refer to harnesses description picture) of the radio when I turn off the engine? ...I wouldn't want to run out my battery...

Remote wire from the kicker LOC (daisy chained from one amp to the other) will turn the unit off and on.


***I am writing and I have the impression of being completely in the field...

#5 If I understand correctly, the radio volume will control all the car's speakers and subwoofers? As for the “bass knob”, it is only used to adjust the bass of the subwoofers?

Once the gains are properly set, then you can use the head unit to attenuate volume relative to the entire system, the bass knob will afford you extra flexibility for the BASS output, this should vcover all your needs.


#6 There are two 30A fuses on the MRP-M650 amplifier for the subwoofers. Is a 60A breaker OK near the battery?

You have two amplifiers; the combined total of both is what you need. This is for fire protection, not amplifier protection. A single 90-100 fuse or breaker should suffice. I use breakers for their convenience. This is one of the better ones (don’t skimp here).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F76VJT2/?tag=caraudiocom-20


#7 There is a 25A fuse on the MRP-F200 amplifier for the front speakers. I couldn't find a 25A breaker for a car, I don't think it exists. There are only 20A or 30A “breakers”. Can I get one of the two? If yes, which one?

See #6, gotcha covered!


***I would like “breakers” for the simple reason that you can press “reset” and no need to replace fuses. On the other hand, if I have no choice but to put a 25A fuse for the MRP-F200 amplifier, I will do so.

#8 In the user's manual for the MRP-M650 amplifier (page 8, fig.4) they mention that it may be necessary in certain conditions for the "remote turn-on lead" wire of the amplifier to be connected to a “switched power source” like “ignition”. It also mentions that maybe it would be necessary to install a "switch" and a 3A fuse near the "ignition" TAP!?!? If we're talking about "ignition" it's probably #7 on the 24 pin harness of the radio (refer to harnesses description picture). I don't really understand this page #8 and figure 4 either. Do i really need all this for the MRP-M650? Should i also do the same thing for the MRP-F200 amplifier even if it is not mentioned in the user's manual!?

*If this is the case, I don't know exactly where to "TAP" and how to wire the 3A fuses and the "switch"!?!?...

With the kicker LOC, that is all the remote turn on you will need. Disregard #8


#9 On my wiring sketch, wherever I connect the wires, please check if I "TAP" at the right places to get the signal (see picture of harnesses description)... if that is the way to do it. ..

… AND FINALLY… HAHAHA

#10 Nowhere could I find the dimensions for the depth of the “speakers” at the bottom of the front doors to find a good “fit”! I even called Hyundai and they don't have that either. The only thing I found was the size of the speakers on Crutchfield.ca and they say 6 ½” OR 6 ¾”. Why two sizes, it seems to me that it's not possible? One or the other must have a support for installation right?!?!

***On Crutchfield.ca, they ask if there is a logo on the front speaker grills and mine doesn't have one.

I also checked on Amazon but when I choose my vehicle, they don't give any suggestions for “speakers” no idea why... Do you know if there is a website that exists to see what speakers fits in my vehicle?


6.5/6.75 is roughly the same overall basket size. One has a little larger cone but the frames are either or as fitment is concerned. Here are some decent budget comps I would recommend you consider (includes replacement tweeters) they are rated for the MRP F-200’s 100 x 2, bridged.

From Recoil:

$53 Good

https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/echo-series-6-5-inch-component-speaker-system/

$95 Better

https://www.recoilaudio.com/product...-6-5-inch-car-audio-component-speaker-system/

Best

https://www.recoilaudio.com/product...-6-5-inch-car-audio-component-speaker-system/

Excellent deal at $99 (regularly $249) and ones that I used on my grandsons ride:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3049908271...d=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

-What specifications do you recommend? -How many watts RMS?... 2-way?, 3-way?, midrange?, fullrange, coaxial!?!?

*From what I understand, a 2-way midrange speaker would be ok... if it exists LOL I'm all mixed up, I've listened to too many videos! LOL I don't want to invest too much but i still want something decent. My budget is tight... off work since 2021.

Covered.

 

[PatLap]

WOW! You spent alot of time to guide me! Thanks! It's getting pretty interesting . There's a few things that i need to clarify...

#1 DUAL VOICE COIL SUBWOOFER (2 Ohms + 2 Ohms)

In the specs of the MRP-M650 amplifier it says i would get 600W RMS at 2 Ohms (Continuous). I would really like to get 2 Ohms at the amplifier to get 600W instead of 400W at 4 Ohms. In the owner's manual for the subwoofers there's a sketch to wire it at 2 Ohms (explanation below). Because of the "bug" on the forum i can't send you a sketch so i will explain it the way it's mentionned in the user's manual and tell me if it's ok.

WIRING EXPLANATION :
***---Each subwoofer has 2 positive terminals and 2 negative terminals---.
*** Each subwoofer has a jumper cable (+ to -) inside the box.

From subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (-) and wire it to the 2nd (-) of subwoofer "B" and from there i wire directly to the (-) terminal on the amp. Then, same thing for the other connection, from subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (+) and wire it to the 2nd (+) of subwoofer B and from there i wire directly to the (+) terminal on the amp.

???What are the pros and cons if wired at 2 Ohms compared at 4 Ohms?

QUESTION #3
You wrote:
"I would not bother with a volt meter knob, get the 5 pin (Rj11 type) remote knob that came with the amp for best results".

***My amplifiers do not have a 5 pin (Rj11 type) or no other types of plug-insfor a bass knob so ill need a universal bass knob. That's why i was going tuse the PAC LC-1 bass knob that works with RCA'S input and output only. These are old amplifiers but they perform very well.

QUESTION #4
You wrote:
"Remote wire from the kicker LOC (daisy chained from one amp to the other) will turn the unit off and on".

***If i understand correctly, i take a remote wire from amplifier A to amplifier B and then a remote wire from amplifier B to the LOC remote wire.

***So, no need to take a remote wire from the LOC to the radio harness and "TAP" on the "remote antenna wire" or "ignition wire" so the amplifiers goes off when i turn off the car?

QUESTION #10
You wrote:
"6.5/6.75 is roughly the same overall basket size. One has a little larger cone but the frames are either or as fitment is concerned. Here are some decent budget comps I would recommend you consider (includes replacement tweeters) they are rated for the MRP F-200’s 100 x 2, bridged".

You gave me a good deal of choice, Thanks. You recommended kits with speakers and tweeters included.

***Just for my curiosity, suppose if someone would only replace the lower front speakers and would keep the factory tweeters that are located on the upper door... would the speakers and tweeters work anyway?

This is getting fun!

 

[PatLap]

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

.

I'll get to all the answers for you this evening.

 

[PatLap]

I'll get to all the answers for you this evening.

No rush! Thanks, you helped me alot. I appreciate!

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

WOW! You spent alot of time to guide me! Thanks! It's getting pretty interesting . There's a few things that i need to clarify...

#1 DUAL VOICE COIL SUBWOOFER (2 Ohms + 2 Ohms)

In the specs of the MRP-M650 amplifier it says i would get 600W RMS at 2 Ohms (Continuous). I would really like to get 2 Ohms at the amplifier to get 600W instead of 400W at 4 Ohms. In the owner's manual for the subwoofers there's a sketch to wire it at 2 Ohms (explanation below). Because of the "bug" on the forum i can't send you a sketch so i will explain it the way it's mentionned in the user's manual and tell me if it's ok.

WIRING EXPLANATION :
***---Each subwoofer has 2 positive terminals and 2 negative terminals---.
*** Each subwoofer has a jumper cable (+ to -) inside the box.

From subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (-) and wire it to the 2nd (-) of subwoofer "B" and from there i wire directly to the (-) terminal on the amp. Then, same thing for the other connection, from subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (+) and wire it to the 2nd (+) of subwoofer B and from there i wire directly to the (+) terminal on the amp.

???What are the pros and cons if wired at 2 Ohms compared at 4 Ohms?

QUESTION #3
You wrote:
"I would not bother with a volt meter knob, get the 5 pin (Rj11 type) remote knob that came with the amp for best results".

***My amplifiers do not have a 5 pin (Rj11 type) or no other types of plug-insfor a bass knob so ill need a universal bass knob. That's why i was going tuse the PAC LC-1 bass knob that works with RCA'S input and output only. These are old amplifiers but they perform very well.

QUESTION #4
You wrote:
"Remote wire from the kicker LOC (daisy chained from one amp to the other) will turn the unit off and on".

***If i understand correctly, i take a remote wire from amplifier A to amplifier B and then a remote wire from amplifier B to the LOC remote wire.

***So, no need to take a remote wire from the LOC to the radio harness and "TAP" on the "remote antenna wire" or "ignition wire" so the amplifiers goes off when i turn off the car?

QUESTION #10
You wrote:
"6.5/6.75 is roughly the same overall basket size. One has a little larger cone but the frames are either or as fitment is concerned. Here are some decent budget comps I would recommend you consider (includes replacement tweeters) they are rated for the MRP F-200’s 100 x 2, bridged".

You gave me a good deal of choice, Thanks. You recommended kits with speakers and tweeters included.

***Just for my curiosity, suppose if someone would only replace the lower front speakers and would keep the factory tweeters that are located on the upper door... would the speakers and tweeters work anyway?

This is getting fun!

#1 DUAL VOICE COIL SUBWOOFER (2 Ohms + 2 Ohms)

In the specs of the MRP-M650 amplifier it says i would get 600W RMS at 2 Ohms (Continuous). I would really like to get 2 Ohms at the amplifier to get 600W instead of 400W at 4 Ohms. In the owner's manual for the subwoofers there's a sketch to wire it at 2 Ohms (explanation below). Because of the "bug" on the forum i can't send you a sketch so i will explain it the way it's mentionned in the user's manual and tell me if it's ok.

WIRING EXPLANATION :
***---Each subwoofer has 2 positive terminals and 2 negative terminals---.
*** Each subwoofer has a jumper cable (+ to -) inside the box.
From subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (-) and wire it to the 2nd (-) of subwoofer "B" and from there i wire directly to the (-) terminal on the amp. Then, same thing for the other connection, from subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (+) and wire it to the 2nd (+) of subwoofer B and from there i wire directly to the (+) terminal on the amp.
???What are the pros and cons if wired at 2 Ohms compared at 4 Ohms?

You can only wire it in series (4 ohms) or parallel (1 ohm) From the Crutchfield site:

Wire Jumpers: The woofer is equipped with two 3" speaker wire jumpers with banana plugs on both ends. These jumpers allow you to wire the voice coils in parallel (for a 1-ohm load) or series (for a 4-ohm load).

Your MRP-M650 puts out 400 at 4 ohms and, 600 at 2, not stable at 1 ohm.

The amplifier is not 1 ohm stable so wiring as you have it pictured, in series for a 4 ohm load is your only option. You’ll not notice much if any difference between 400 and 600 watts. It takes the ear roughly 10db to realize a doubling of volume.The way wattage gains in volume are realized is as follows:

400 to 800 watts 3 db

800 to 1600 watts (another 3 db) for a 6 db increase over 400'

1600 to 3200 watts (another 3 db) for a 9 db increase over 400 watts.

It would take 3200 watts in order for the ear to perceive a doubling of the volume. That means that you would see a roughly 16.5% difference in volume between 400 and 600 watt - insignificant in a subwoofer.



QUESTION #3
You wrote:
"I would not bother with a volt meter knob, get the 5 pin (Rj11 type) remote knob that came with the amp for best results".
***My amplifiers do not have a 5 pin (Rj11 type) or no other types of plug-insfor a bass knob so ill need a universal bass knob. That's why i was going tuse the PAC LC-1 bass knob that works with RCA'S input and output only. These are old amplifiers but they perform very well.

My bad, the picture wasn’t clear and looked like the hi Level input was an RJ 11 input. One of these would suffice. It runs inline with the RCAs going to the MRP-M650(and it’s optional) $10​

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0795C68CV/?tag=caraudiocom-20​

QUESTION #4
You wrote:
"Remote wire from the kicker LOC (daisy chained from one amp to the other) will turn the unit off and on".
***If i understand correctly, i take a remote wire from amplifier A to amplifier B and then a remote wire from amplifier B to the LOC remote wire.
***So, no need to take a remote wire from the LOC to the radio harness and "TAP" on the "remote antenna wire" or "ignition wire" so the amplifiers goes off when i turn off the car?

That is correct. Or you can split the lead from the remote power lead on the LOC and run one wire to each, either way – same, same.

QUESTION #10
You wrote:
"6.5/6.75 is roughly the same overall basket size. One has a little larger cone but the frames are either or as fitment is concerned. Here are some decent budget comps I would recommend you consider (includes replacement tweeters) they are rated for the MRP F-200’s 100 x 2, bridged".

You gave me a good deal of choice, Thanks. You recommended kits with speakers and tweeters included.

***Just for my curiosity, suppose if someone would only replace the lower front speakers and would keep the factory tweeters that are located on the upper door... would the speakers and tweeters work anyway?

This is where it gets a little tricky. All the links to drivers that I provided include crossovers that are hooked to that chanel from the amp. From the crossovers, you run wire from the respective outputs on the crossover.

Your factory speakers may or may not have the crossovers inline and if not, they are likely crossed over at the factory amp, which you’ll not be using. This means you will have to wire in crossovers for both sides and that is another $20 for what? Get the comps and do a slightly modified install. If they do have inline crossovers, no way to tell if they are set at the optimal frequency, highly likely they are not.

All the component sets I gave you links to have tweeters that physically fit into your vehicle's existing tweeter locations. You'll need to use back straps, hot glue, or silicone (preferable) to secure them. Waste of time and money to use the factory tweeters.