Any 14 AWG. You could also splice with the longer wire and cut that loop in half. The last time I bought speakers, the wire was included.Thanks.. do I have to differentiate between speaker wire or electrical wiring here? Or any 14 gauge wiring is fine?
How does he contradict himself? He installs coaxial 2-way in the sides, but in the prior video he explained that he was doing coaxial because he was replacing the JBL amp. Additionally, in the JBL system the front door speakers are only midrange speakers to start with, so it doesn't matter if he uses coaxial and only wires the 2 wires because that is all the door had to start. This is, I think, even confirmed in the comments:I emailed a message to you. That same provo beast vid guy contradicts his original rear speaker install statements when shooting the the door install, making it all clear as mud. I've located his location and chat, will try to get confirmation on Monday as it is closed on the weekends. It's absolutely not clear whether the dividing networks is electronic or not. If it was, he would not use the caps in the tweeter set-up using the alpine supplied cap.
I was looking for a Camry JBL amplifier pinout, but for the life of me I could not find a single one that had separate rear speakers. Then it hit me; does your OEM tweeter have a capacitor in it?This is, I think, even confirmed in the comments:
Yeah, I looked for one too, no luck. Istill think that the leads are all full range, could be wrong but the info out there is all over the map, including all the wire adapters rolling the 2nd set of leads for coaxial installation. The only way to really tell is get out a bookshelf speaker and plug it into both wire leads. If there is no difference, they are all full range and the journey starts over again.I was looking for a Camry JBL amplifier pinout, but for the life of me I could not find a single one that had separate rear speakers. Then it hit me; does your OEM tweeter have a capacitor in it?
Yup. Speakers won't lie.The only way to really tell is get out a bookshelf speaker and plug it into both wire leads.
it's starting to sound like Greek to me again - but I'll just stress that what is is doing is:Well, he says that you have to use the separate leads indicating the amp is used as the electronic crossover. Then he uses the inline crossover in the door installs, that's contradictory. One suggest electronic dividing networks (crossovers) in play, the other passive dividing (crossovers) in play. You don't use both for dividing frequencies between mid woofers and tweeters. Please, nobody bring up active/passive hybrid applications, they are not applicable here.
The center channel speaker would be perfect for the test. You simply connect it to the wires for the 6x9 and hear if it plays the full audio spectrum. Do the same test with the tweeter wires. By full spectrum I mean bass and treble. If both wire sets play similar, then there is no need to use both wire sets.If honestly have no idea the specifics on them, but if it would disclose something for me to go out and try to touch some wires, or use a multimeter for some measurements or something let me know.
Unfortunately this is my sound system:The center channel speaker would be perfect for the test. You simply connect it to the wires for the 6x9 and hear if it plays the full audio spectrum. Do the same test with the tweeter wires. By full spectrum I mean bass and treble. If both wire sets play similar, then there is no need to use both wire sets.
I guess what we really want to find out is if the tweeter's wires are pumping out bass. If they are, then it is safe to assume those wires are joined up the line somewhere after the amp. That would explain why Camry JBL amplifier pinouts show just one set of wires going to each rear.I don't believe the center channel is different than any of the others, so not sure it would function for this test.