12k+ rms amp?

mattmillme

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What amps would you look at if you're wanting 12,000 watts rms or more on 14 volts? I would like to have 15,000 but could go as high as 18,000. I would prefer to keep my system voltage in the 14's, but may be convinced to go with more voltage. I need a single amp as I have PLENTY of room for length(probably 50ish inches), a good amount for width(about 14~16[possibly more]), but not much for height(probably 4 inches max, prefer less). Most of the amps that I can think of are extremely long, but don't have enough power. I don't think with my vehicle there will be any way to mount more than one amp and still do the build as I would like. I don't think mounting two smaller amps on my trunk lid would be a very good idea due to vibrations. Oh, BTW I plan on slightly overpowering 6 ZV4 10's(hopefully 2500 rms to each, but am open to as low as 2000 and as high as 3000). I may go with 4 NS V3 12's or 15's as well(hadn't thought about box design enough), but more than likely not. The systems is for everyday stuff more or less, so it can't get too hot when under a 1/2 to 3/4 load for a few hours straight(long drives, ~6 hours nonstop). I would also like to take it to car audio shows and demo it for a couple hours straight at a time at basically full tilt, no competitions though. I will probably have 3 alternators(one with wattage in the low to mid 200's for everyday, and 2 in the mid 300's range when needed) to power it and 4 batteries(Kinetiks, 24 or 3800's), no capacitors.

This is an off question, but with having 12-18K watts in subs and probably 2-3K rms in components and tweeters; do you think the electrical I had planned will be even close to enough for the system to perform well at high volumes? I don't think I would have any more room for more electrical, maybe one more alternator at most.

 
Is there any truth to the Orion HCCA20000.1D being anywhere near what the manufacturer claims it to be?

POWER DESCRIPTION 20000.1D CEA Certified

RMS WATTS @ 4 OHM at 12.6V 10,000

RMS WATTS @ 2 OHM at 12.6V 15,000

RMS WATTS @ 1 OHM at 12.6V 20,000

TOTAL POWER WATTS 40,000

31.5" Length

Double Stacked

Available End of 2014!

Especially for what I've seen it supposed to sell for, $4~5000 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif. Sounds way too good to be true... but IDK //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif (am I the only one thinkimg how much BS this is?)

 
Is there any truth to the Orion HCCA20000.1D being what the manufacturer claims it to be? POWER DESCRIPTION 20000.1D CEA Certified

RMS WATTS @ 4 OHM at 12.6V 10,000

RMS WATTS @ 2 OHM at 12.6V 15,000

RMS WATTS @ 1 OHM at 12.6V 20,000

TOTAL POWER WATTS 40,000

31.5" Length

Double Stacked

Available End of 2014!

Especially for what I've seen it supposed to sell for, $4~5000 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif. Sounds way too good to be true... but IDK //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif
This is going to be a overrated POS

 
I am wondering why you need this much power in a DD ( In theory u are only gaining 3db or less going from 6-7k to 12k-14k) which you could make up with box design and/or cone area

 
I am wondering why you need this much power in a DD ( In theory u are only gaining 3db or less going from 6-7k to 12k-14k) which you could make up with box design and/or cone area
Why do I need it? I don't "need" it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif hahaha, it just would be fun //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif, and I would love to demo it as much as possible. I can't fit more cone area into the space given by my trunk while still meeting my goal, nor can I do much about box parameters as once again due to the shape of my trunk. I could do 4 12's with 20sq inches less than 10's; 2 18's which would leave me more cone area(36 sq inches more)... but a 'lazier' feel and not enough space for the two of them; or I could do 3 15's which would yield the most surface area(22 more than the 18's, and 58 more than the 10's) but would still have a lazier feel and be cramped in the size available. I may also be able to squeeze 1-2 more 10's into the box I was planning for a total of either 20.5 or 99 more sq inches respectively than the 3 15's. The power isn't so much about DB's as it is ensuring the subs are put to full use and being on the overly cautious side of things for longevity. The box shape I plan(due to trunk shape) will be very odd and would be able to fit 10's on 2(maybe 4) sides versus just 1 side if I ran 12's, 15's, or 18's. This system will be going into the same car that will have 1000rwhp and run in the 9's for the 1/4 mile with the stereo and full street trim(except minimal cage requirements) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
False. 18s can hit the beats just as fast as smaller subs can. Idiots spread this around.
There's nothing false about this information. The key word to your statement is 'can'. Will I disagree that 18's can't be quick on the beats, no, I know 18's can be brutal throughout all frequencies. I will also tell you that inertia is what it is. If you have two subs built in the same manner(one series of sub: a 10 and an 18) with proper power levels to them, the 10 will be quicker on any change of direction, just due to the fact that there is less mass to move there.

 
[quote name='mattmillme']There's nothing false about this information. The key word to your statement is 'can'. Will I disagree that 18's can't be quick on the beats, no, I know 18's can be brutal throughout all frequencies. I will also tell you that inertia is what it is. If you have two subs built in the same manner(one series of sub: a 10 and an 18) with proper power levels to them, the 10 will be quicker on any change of direction, just due to the fact that there is less mass to move there.[/QUOTE]

That's exactly what I thought when I got into car audio. And all the pros on this forum told me different. It depends on the install. Put the 18s in the proper box just like the 10s and the 18s will keep up with the 10s. That's why @NoLoud4U ; questioned what you said about lazier
 
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