Whats Needed For 3 12”JBL Subs 500W RMS Each
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A monoblock amp that does a legit about 1500-2000w for the subs. And I always advise people to put the mids/high on an amp if it's in the budget. You shouldn't need an extra battery but upgrading the one under your hood to the biggest agm you can fit would be a good idea though
With that many subs and running that much power to them, I would say do definitely put an amp on the highs and mids.
As mentioned, put at least 1500watts to the subs. PPI is having a clearance on their amps. I just ordered the A1800.1D and the A700.4D amps. Total was $240 for both.
As for a capacitor, the rule use to be 1 farad for every 1000 watts. That was back when caps were high quality. I would recommend a 5 farad Stinger cap. Also, if you plan of bumping pretty hard, I recommend upping your alternator by 150 amps.
CT-1500.1D // 1500 Watts RMS Monoblock Car Audio Amplifier
The CT Sounds CT-1500.1D is a compact 1500 watt class d monoblock car subwoofer amplifier. The 1-ohm stable mono amp features a Low Pass Filter (LPF), Subsonic Filter, and Bass Boost so you can get the exact sound you are looking for out of your amplifier.
www.ctsounds.com
Wait a week or so and look for any type of Audio Christmas sales. My 2k gets down just fine as well as my 150.4 on CT Sounds entry level amps
I've got a 5 Farad stinger cap, $100 shipped! Was going to list it this week sometime.
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Thats a good price. How old is it?
Yeah, it shows a picture of the 4 way remote but is is actually a single, larger remote out, same location, just a single versus 4 port connector on the remote only. Just ran out of room under my grandsons car seat, amplifier 2was only 800 watts, not like it was needed anyway. More for grandpa the grandson... 
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ThxOne Premium Member
The Boss
I have the 10Farad version. It's good if your goal is to get rid of ground loop noise. The voltmeter works nice as well.
They make for a decent helper to the amp, for what they are designed for when you don't have room for another battery.
ThxOne Premium Member
The Boss
I have had mine for several years in 4 different cars. Not one single issue. It is built well.
I don't think this is ideal, but let's assume you can easily mount all the tweeters. That installing them is going to be really simple, and already made for you to install; then you can get 4 crossovers, and wire two tweeters to each crossover channel high, with one 6.5", (3 speakers on each crossover/amp channel). Get a 4ch amp, that will 100-120w RMS x 4 @ 2ohms, and then dial it down to about 80w RMS x 4 @ 2ohms.
If you have to figure out how to install two tweeters in each door, I wouldn't even go this route. You could always run 4 tweeters, one on each head unit channel, but this isn't a great idea either.
If I could return those mids and tweeters, I would. If I couldn't I might even take a loss on the tweeters and find some that will match up better at 2ohms, with more wattage. Not sure how you got to wanting 8 tweeters, but the work involved in getting 4 extra low wattage tweeters didn't fit doesn't make sense to me. A much better starting point is to just get a set of components. There's a big question on the physical install, and are you there, or are you planning on it.
As for the subs. If you haven't bought those yet, get the dual 2 ohm. You then wire them to 4 ohm each, and you wire them together to 1.33 ohms. You could easily put 1K watts to each, but your electrical needs to be figured out. When amp shopping 1.33 ohms is right between 1 and 2 ohms.
Get a mono amp. Their only drawback from a 2 or 4ch amp is you don't get stereo, (if you know tvs from 40+ years ago), you only get sound in mono. Well, that doesn't matter with subs. A class D amp is designed for power.
Some amps, can do the same at 1 and 2 ohm, such as a taramps smark 3K amp would do just what you want, but I think you should be looking at amps between 3K and 5Kwatts RMS. It might be worth it to have a little headroom, and dial it down. Your call, but IMO, shop for those two sizes before buying, size might be a consideration.
Voltage gauges are cool. You should have one on your dash.
You're going to need a larger alternator. A battery stores energy, and an alt recharges a battery.
Lets say you're at 3200w total.
3200w / .8 (general amp efficiency, but you can find yours) = 4,000w (draw)
4,000w / 14.4v (used to be standard running voltage) = 277 amp draw.
Thats on top of what your vehicle uses. Thats when everything is maxed out bass hits, and full draw on your amps. Music style matters; bass tracks and rap have more draw/hits than country or rock, and have less time between to recharge, so that's another variable. You're somewhere in the 250 - 350 amp alternator range, depending on do you want the minimum that will work, or the max and you will never worry. It's also in the range, where you're going to have to see what your options are.
A good single battery won't need a second battery if you have a good alt that can produce all that's needed.
Let's call the cap a smaller, cheaper, battery that's dedicated for just the amp. They will help with bass hits, and you're in that range, where it would keep you from needing a second battery, but you would definitely want the larger alt. You need a better alt; you don't need another battery and a cap, you will probably need one of these two.
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