HO Alternator Acceleration Spike: Cutting my Subs

[mc71]

Mine is under the whole car....I've seen one video of a guy saying you can get to it from up top & lists all the things to remove out of the way....but it's more just saying "you can get it out"....

if I start trying this, I might be stuck needing a tow.

Popwarhomie what is your car? Is your alt underneath?

 

[MrFoca]

Can I ask what year escape? I didn't realize 3.0 would make a difference.....but I know whenever I call any shop asking for estimates...there's always the same tone they get once they look up my car like "yeah....that's not a small job". I had 2 appointments just to spend the $300 to have shops put back my oem....but first run tests to see if they can see anything wrong, to see if it's worth the $.....they've both said it didn't look faulty except the quick spike....then looks normal. So both times left it in.

Mine is a 2008. Yeah the 2.4 & 3.0 use totally different serpentine belts. That's one reason why I didn't want the V6 was I looked at the belt chart on where the placement of the alt was lol. Mine is just behind the engine

 

[mc71]

ah ok....I also mine being 2005-2007 is different than 2008 models

 

[mc71]

I'm really curious what the Singer alt specs would let me expect ....I'm about to run out of here & will be back.

I posted what Michael Singer told me in OP. I'm sure his alts are great.

Thanks I appreciate the comments //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Then do it yourself. Mine was far from easy but I sure would do it over again instead of pay someone $300 to do it.

Yea, a shop quoted me $300+ to install a new alt in my car. I'd definitely pay someone to put this second one in though

 

[mc71]

Before I put in another alternator I'd need to be convinced it would solve the problem. The fact that the voltage spikes on take off (& Mechman saying it's common with PCM's) doesn't quite make sense to me. Are the regulators inside it not for regulating? If at idle, the alt turns off, then turns on again on take off, & I keep hearing "the PCM takes over but it's not quick enough" WHY is there a 16+V spike to begin??

If the PCM isn't quick enough....what's the internal regulators' job in the meantime? (Why do they get off scott-free in this deal?)

Regardless, will "doubling" the insides (6 phase, 2 stators, twin rectifiers, high pole count rotor) be the answer?? THAT'S the question.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

If the alt is internally regulated, just run your sense wire to battery positive. I just clipped my stock sense wire and ran a new one. Solved my voltage issue

 

[mc71]

Ok I don't know what the sense wire does. Is that basically bypassing the PCM & my alternator dash light would be on all the time?

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Ok I don't know what the sense wire does. Is that basically bypassing the PCM & my alternator dash light would be on all the time?

My dash light isn't on, but yours may be.

Ask Mechman before doing this.

If it isn't internally regulated for sure, there may be other issues.

 

[mc71]

If the alt is internally regulated, just run your sense wire to battery positive

I appreciate the idea....something in my gut doesn't sit right about possible drawbacks (safety concerns?). I'm not sure.

If I ever sell the car I don't want it "rigged"...but I don't want it spiking either. I pictured upgrading my electrical improving the safety & health of my car. I'll still look into it thanks.

Then do it yourself. Mine was far from easy but I sure would do it over again instead of pay someone $300 to do it.

Holy crap I just looked at youtube tutorials again (replacing Ford Escape alternators...same build as the Mariner). Even the "easy" tutorials aren't easy.

Can anyone convince me the Singer alt wouldn't have the same issue? & why?

Some say all (Ford?) PCM cars will have this spike problem with HO alts.

I'm still leaning toward buying 3 XS Power batteries (& upgrading to 2/0 cable)...I'm at least confident my sub amp will stop cutting out.

 

[massivespl]

My buddy has a 320 Mechman on his 2007 Hhr. It would spike to 16v randomly an he sent it back to Mechman. They fixed something on it and now it's fine. Send it back

 

[mc71]

Thanks, this isn't random though...it's when I first accelerate from a stop...then it's fine. Mechman's view is it's "common" with Ford PCM's.

 

[MrFoca]

So is the spike due to the smaller pulley they put on the alternator ? Cause if his does this & an HHR does it. Is it just coming from a dead stop the RPM's turn that smaller pulley so fast ?

 

[mc71]

Mechman said it's possible the vehicle idles below the turn on speed of the alternator, so I'll get a brief spike as rpms come into the turn on range.

 

[mc71]

They also mentioned re-flashing my PCM....but I have a base warranty on my car & didn't want to take my car to Ford with a non-approved alternator. But NOW I'm thinking..

Would just clearing the PCM's memory have the same effect?? Because THAT'S easy. Reflashing involves the software & machines.