How Do I Make My Build Less Peaky 2003 Mustang

[Blackout67]

My build is a Definitive Audio Designs MAK15 in a 4.2 cu ft box tuned to 32 (check out my page I have a video on one of my posts of the full build). Seemed extremely peaky on lower notes. Destroys my ears and sounds muddy. When I roll down my windows it helps flatten it out but it's still there. I know SPL increases around port tuning frequency, but I'm not about it. I like flat and loud so it sounds as natural as possible. Is there any way to flatten this out?

On a side note, what is the relation between airspace and tuning regarding how they affect transient response? My set up is pretty good with rap music but if there is a lot of transients such as double bass pedals, or where the bass suddenly stops I feel like there is slight over hang. It makes me miss my first build which was a 10 inch kicker in a .67 sealed box. Transients we're good and metal/rock was fantastic. I've heard that sealed boxes are peakier than ported boxes. Was looking at 4 NVX VCW 12' each in 1.25 sealed boxes if I can fit it. How might that stack up in SPL in my current system

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[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

If you have an SSF that isn't too steep, you can set that around 35-40hz. Otherwise I'd go sealed, which should sound flatter at the expense of SPL. Sealed boxes are not peakier than ported boxes.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

My build is a Definitive Audio Designs MAK15 in a 4.2 cu ft box tuned to 32 (check out my page I have a video on one of my posts of the full build). Seemed extremely peaky on lower notes. Destroys my ears and sounds muddy. When I roll down my windows it helps flatten it out but it's still there. I know SPL increases around port tuning frequency, but I'm not about it. I like flat and loud so it sounds as natural as possible. Is there any way to flatten this out?

On a side note, what is the relation between airspace and tuning regarding how they affect transient response? My set up is pretty good with rap music but if there is a lot of transients such as double bass pedals, or where the bass suddenly stops I feel like there is slight over hang. It makes me miss my first build which was a 10 inch kicker in a .67 sealed box. Transients we're good and metal/rock was fantastic. I've heard that sealed boxes are peakier than ported boxes. Was looking at 4 NVX VCW 12' each in 1.25 sealed boxes if I can fit it. How might that stack up in SPL in my current system

You could tune it higher. If you have a way to measure cabin gain you could figure out what your cabin gain is an build around it.

Then again if you can measure cabin gain you can measure your current frequency response and see the actual peaks.

Tight chest thumping bass comes from the 40-60hz range from my experience and when you get that nailed down using your subs it's not uncommon to give up some low end response.

If you have time alignment try adjusting the subs to match up with your midbass speakers this will help immensely.

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

I have a simple thing you can do to see if the box/tuning is "bad" or if you just prefer a smoother rolloff. Plug your port. Stuff towels in it, make a piece of wood to cover it and screw it into place, whatever method you want, it's OK if it leaks a little air.

Then play some music and see how it sounds. 4.2 cubic feet seems rather large for a single 15. If you have a very large enclosure, you will get a much bigger peak around tuning and it can seriously mess up how the box sounds.

If you can seal the box up and report back I can help you further diagnose any potential issues and maybe give you some quick ways to change your box tuning.

Matt

Edit: I can't seem to find the specs on that specific sub. Do you happen to have the T/S parameters?

 

[Blackout67]

I have a simple thing you can do to see if the box/tuning is "bad" or if you just prefer a smoother rolloff. Plug your port. Stuff towels in it, make a piece of wood to cover it and screw it into place, whatever method you want, it's OK if it leaks a little air.

Then play some music and see how it sounds. 4.2 cubic feet seems rather large for a single 15. If you have a very large enclosure, you will get a much bigger peak around tuning and it can seriously mess up how the box sounds.

If you can seal the box up and report back I can help you further diagnose any potential issues and maybe give you some quick ways to change your box tuning.

Matt

Edit: I can't seem to find the specs on that specific sub. Do you happen to have the T/S parameters?

No unfortunately not. I got the subwoofer on a trade I can only find it on a different brands website. I kind of figured it was the box volume causing the peak. I had two Sundown E 12s on "2k" watts in the same car before I got all my electrical upgrades and I didn't have this issue. The box was slightly smaller than recommended after displacement and it knocked down my rearview but didn't sound nearly as good. I want to hit low but also not be leaky so I was like maybe I'll go sealed. But then I was like well I still want the same or higher output as my one 15 hense why I was considering 4 12s in 1.25 sealed boxes but I don't think it will fit in my mustang. I can't build my own box at the moment and I found some decent looking prefabs for online black Friday sale I could get all 4 subs and box dual 12 boxes. The 12s I'm considering are definitely sq oriented but they are very efficient so I figured that would make up for it

But again I don't think I can fit both boxes in my mustang

 

[shredder2]

As far as that DAD sub goes, in my experience airspace has a direct effect on peakiness, I modeled up that particular sub and would avoid sealed btw. Now decreasing the airspace should lessen the peak around tuning and bring the delay down too. I like 3.5ft3 net, 65in2 of port 39.5" long and that should tune just over 33hz. The smaller peak may make the extension seem greater /w/ a less steep rolloff.

 

[SlugButter]

Lots of people actually like that low end peak. I don’t like it either. Shredder has it right. Bringing down the air space will soften that low peak and your metal music will sound much better, and give a “tighter” sound, which just means a more accurate sound to me. Im kinda liking the sound of passive radiator systems as a metal listener. I’ve played with them a lot this last summer with numerous subs. There are a couple of different strategies to using them. I really like modeling around a sealed box and using the passive radiator tuned super low. My last test was using an Island precision audio 15 inch sub and a passive radiator. There are some negatives also using PRs, but the sound is absolutely awesome.

 

[Blackout67]

I've seen those as well. I wish that I had a work space and appropriate tools. I've built 3 boxes myself. But it is a ***** free handing a circular saw and my jigsaw ***** and I can never get the cut out right. I've been seeing a lot of pr videos recommended to me and they do look interesting

 

[SlugButter]

I've seen those as well. I wish that I had a work space and appropriate tools. I've built 3 boxes myself. But it is a ***** free handing a circular saw and my jigsaw ***** and I can never get the cut out right. I've been seeing a lot of pr videos recommended to me and they do look interesting

You can build to ported specs and try to mimic a ported box using them (which is impossible due to mechanical loss with the PRs), or build to sealed specs and add a PR tuned really low, which is my favorite way. It give more bang per cubic foot. Building to ported specs you may as well just go ported. The PRs will never reach ported output.

 

[SlugButter]

PRs kinda go against the rules. You’d think that by using a sealed box air space with a PR, that a sub actually meant for a sealed box would be better for that application, but that doesn’t seem to be the case. A sub that is better in ported boxes seems to work better. Youre basically turning a sealed box into a small, extremely low tuned ported box. That’s how the sub acts in the enclosure anyway.

 

[shredder2]

I see tastes that either lean towards rock or La Banda all the time when I design, when punchiness /w/ extension are what's needed I usually recommend a 4th order. I try to let people know the power handling will be affected sometimes but when designing the tuning, delay and peak can be tailored for the cabin. In a Mustang I'd be leaning towards 2 10's and done right. Mounting depth and space required may affect whether I elect to to a 4th or ported /w/ a 15. Ported would be best tuned Fs (35hz) and in minimum airspace for punchiness/Sq with that driver. Personally if it was mine I'd try for a 4th and tune it 46-48hz done right. Call me crazy but I believe its doable and would slam /w/ that punciness op is after. I like rock myself /w/ the occasional sub-bass (under 25hz) but those low notes /w/ a ton of delay tire me. I like to feel the impact...

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Have you tried just moving the box around in the vehicle? Box position and orientation can have dramatic effect on your frequency response.

 

[Blackout67]

Have you tried just moving the box around in the vehicle? Box position and orientation can have dramatic effect on your frequency response.

I think I'm just gonna sell the whole setup. Putting the mustang away for the winter. Just bought me an 05 Sierra Regular cab and the first thing I was thinking while driving it home was the system I'd put in it. Already got the mids and highs. JBL Club CSQ components (half off on crutchfield right now) for the fronts and Concert series 6x4 for the back pillars and I'm gonna use the JP84 out of my mustang. But I haven't decided on the subs and being regular cab really limits me. Just looking to get some nice drivers in prefab sealed box. Either 2 NVX VSW 10s in 1.0 sealed each or 1 12 inch VCW in 1.3 cubes. Both would be on a JP8 Mono.

Not looking to spend a lot planning on just running an AGM with 2 gauge big 3. Stock alt is 130 or 140 amp but it's base model so not even power locks so I should be good. Don't have a way to model. Any suggestions?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Don't have a way to model. Any suggestions?

You mean box design? If you're just cramming whatever will fit in a pickup truck in a sealed box you probably just need to roll with whatever. Not like you have much for wiggle room in box size/shape and not like there's all that many options for subs that will physically fit in a practical sized box.

 

[Blackout67]

You mean box design? If you're just cramming whatever will fit in a pickup truck in a sealed box you probably just need to roll with whatever. Not like you have much for wiggle room in box size/shape and not like there's all that many options for subs that will physically fit in a practical sized box.

Don't have a way to model it in a program like WinISD I don't have a computer currently and I can't find a way to get it on my phone. Plan on taking out the middle seat of I can. Probably will end up going with the one 12