What's wrong with running power wire under a vehicle?

Well considering the original question had been answered and your still posting as if the OP is going to read your reply, I'd say yeah, your still a dumbshit //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
Also your original post isn't even logically relevant because it's incorrect. Your implying that the chassis is always a superior conductor to 1/0 which it is not.
Actually I answered for all to read not the OP - Did I not acknowledge the date of the Thread? You have obviously been a member on here for some time but your obviously a fn ******* if thats how you tread people here. And yes the chassis is thicker and more conductive if earthed at the right place FFS your a TROLL.

 
Actually I answered for all to read not the OP - Did I not acknowledge the date of the Thread? You have obviously been a member on here for some time but your obviously a fn ******* if thats how you tread people here. And yes the chassis is thicker and more conductive if earthed at the right place FFS your a TROLL.
I may be a troll but your an idiot. Making a blanket statement such as "a chassis ground will always be superior to a direct run of 1/0" is ridiculous AND FALSE. Even if you have a perfect ground that path still has to proceed though multiple weld points and rely on the factory ground to get back to system. It's been proven on here in the past that in high power setups it's always beneficial to run a dedicated ground wire. Don't shoot your mouth off unless you know what your talking about.

 
Who would use a 0 gauge wire and still use a factory ground WTF. And yes some cars will be not as good as others there will always be objection to rule but in general yes my statement is correct. Maybe in America your cars are that rubbish but here I've not ever seen that. And to make a blanket statement "Don't shoot your mouth off unless you know what your talking about" and you dont know me you should take your own advice...

 
Who would use a 0 gauge wire and still use a factory ground WTF. And yes some cars will be not as good as others there will always be objection to rule but in general yes my statement is correct. Maybe in America your cars are that rubbish but here I've not ever seen that. And to make a blanket statement "Don't shoot your mouth off unless you know what your talking about" and you dont know me you should take your own advice...
You misunderstood. Let me make it a bit simpler...in the event your relying on the chassis as your ground path, in order for that path to be a complete circuit, it eventually has to make it's way back to the negative terminal on the battery, which means if you haven't done the Big 3, it has to rely on the factory ground. I'd wager if your still relying on the chassis as your ground you haven't done the Big 3 (speaking generally, not at you). The point being, you made an incorrect blanket statement, just like in your other thread. You have to remember that we give advice to a very broad audience, so instead of grilling them on what type of car they have and trying to figure out how decent the chassis ground path is, we use a generalized theory for advice. In this case, when people are trying to put together multiple thousand watt systems, I always suggest they run a dedicated ground wire to improve conductivity and minimize voltage loss.

I know you don't care about any of this. Your obviously a pro, who's installed so many systems you know everything there is to know about everything. I'm tired of arguing with you, but if you continue to spread misinformation I will call you on it every time.

 
Ok fair enough but a system not built proper is usually laughed at here but I guess we are just mean. If you are building a system thats got a 0 gauge positive I've never seen the ground not done as well. I don't get it why wouldn't you? And hey call away because I've not seen you correct anything yet that I've had to say, because I'm not incorrect. I just do things the proper way. Your way is a bandaid to being a dumbarse (dumbarse wasn't aimed at you).

 
Ok fair enough but a system not built proper is usually laughed at here but I guess we are just mean. If you are building a system thats got a 0 gauge positive I've never seen the ground not done as well. I don't get it why wouldn't you? And hey call away because I've not seen you correct anything yet that I've had to say, because I'm not incorrect. I just do things the proper way. Your way is a bandaid to being a dumbarse (dumbarse wasn't aimed at you).
No, my method is not a bandaid for anything. In fact, in high power systems a dedicated ground wire is not only recommended, it's required. You claim to have worked on high power systems right? You guys always used the chassis for your return path? I find that very hard to believe considering every system over 5kw I've ever seen has had multiple dedicated ground wires run from the front to the back. The chassis ground is fine for low power systems but I will forever maintain a direct 1/0 run will be equivalent or superior.

I know I read somewhere that most chassis' only provide the equivalent of 4 gauge (I can't prove that, I was just thinking out loud. It seems logically sound though) I know it's easy to think that just because there's a lot of metal there it must be a great conductive path but you have to remember that's not copper, it's got entirely different electrical characteristics including it's resistance. Add that in with the unknown of how that chassis is welded together and you have an unreliable, unrepeatable set of circumstances for every car.

 
Yes I agree with high powered systems but thats taking it out of context as I was only talking one run of 0 gauge.

I know I read somewhere that most chassis' only provide the equivalent of 4 gauge (I can't prove that, I was just thinking out loud. It seems logically sound though) I know it's easy to think that just because there's a lot of metal there it must be a great conductive path but you have to remember that's not copper, it's got entirely different electrical characteristics including it's resistance. Add that in with the unknown of how that chassis is welded together and you have an unreliable, unrepeatable set of circumstances for every car.
I've not witnessed that but if shown as was by a plausible source I would take it on board. But as far as I've seen/witnessed have never seen using an dedicated run of copper been better than the chassis (yes unlike big systems over 1 run of 0 gauge).

 
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