One more, Amp Recommendation Request hehe =)

[TwistedSkillz]

I use them. No choice. They are ok. No issues. The 8000 no 4 channels. Hit up soundrive they are sweet 

---------- Post added at 10:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:37 PM ----------

 

The Es line are the best

Just to show you stinger makes them in 8k--May want to hit up your suppliers for an updated list

Stinger SI8417 RCA Interconnect Audio Cable 8000 Series 4 Channel 17 Feet Stereo | eBay

Also we want the best speakers our money can buy. We dont want a Box or subs. So we are looking for SQ and SPL out of the Interior SPeakers. I know that I can achieve it, and there are ways.

I just have to figure out which speakers then to get because these sound like Crap! And for the money He spent so not worth it, and Ready to Have him ship them back. Just hate buying twice and speaking to sellers who take advantage of the young.

The amp Looks nice, but we need something that does 200 RMS at each channel.

 

[TwistedSkillz]

I'd spend my money on any other high end speaker brand other than CDT, they are lackluster for the price you pay IMO. However this case sounds like some install issues going on. You might be running into phase issues, tuning issues and crossover trouble. Have you properly recreated the factory seal yet?

So who do you like for Interior Speakers?

If you really want high end SQ sound, then you need to ditch the passive crossovers completely and go with active tuning. This would require buying a DSP(digital signal processor) and the tuning gets a lot more complicated and in-depth than a normal crossover that you're used to. I would not recommend this for most people though as it takes an extensive amount of time to tune and you will rip your hair out trying to figure it out. If you guys are ready to do it though, then some of us can help you with that. DSP's are pretty expensive though and you're gonna need a channel for every speaker. So a 4 channel would only be sufficient for 2 tweeters and 2 mids. Since you already bought the CDT speakers, you might as well use them. You could go active for the front stage and go passive in the back for rear fill, which would require 6 channels in total. It is completely up to you.

I was reading up on these last nite, And see they can do alot some of them, and can get pricey. Now what will This do If I install one? I see what it can do and what it does. But what will it help me with?

Also I see many not using Head units and are buying Tablets and running That as a Deck. Do you recommend that?

Like what are my advantages with one? And are they really Needed?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So who do you like for Interior Speakers?


I was reading up on these last nite, And see they can do alot some of them, and can get pricey. Now what will This do If I install one? I see what it can do and what it does. But what will it help me with?

Also I see many not using Head units and are buying Tablets and running That as a Deck. Do you recommend that?

Like what are my advantages with one? And are they really Needed?

Hertz, scanspeak, morel, dyanaudio, the upper lines of focal.

Dsps are magical boxes of sound quality. Your whole experience and definition of sound quality will be rewritten to how amazing and immersive your music will sound. Of course the depends on your tuning capabilities.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

I understand. But your speakers will sound as good as the install or treatment I'll say this tho. Most component sets. That are good or better starts around $300+ if he wants sq. then in only focus more on the front stage and doors. The rears should only be do fill and really don't need that much power So a nice deck. A dap and front components powered by an amp Then rear fill should be just mids or coax speakers on deck power not many amps out will do a true 200 x 4 rms

 

[timhof13 10+ year member]

Check out keephopealives build logs he does an amazing job. I will disagree that you will need a subwoofer somewhere, it can be a single 8 but you will need to get down to 30hz somehow or your missing a lot from your music. Throwing money at things usually isn't the answer. A $300 set of components will sound great of done right, hell a $70 set of silver flutes and $50 set of vifa tweets will sound amazing run active!

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

Yea 200w per channel is totally unnecessary and is a waste of money if anything. You will only use like a fraction of that power and you're losing a lot of it through heat dissipation actually. I agree what mylows10 is saying.. you should focus more on your front stage then slowly bring in the rear to fill in the void from the back seats. You want your stage to be coming from the front, not behind you. Just like a concert, you wouldn't have your backs turned against the artist/band would you? Your rears don't need to be expensive because they are not the main focus.

When it comes to going active, it gives you the ability to manipulate your own sound signature and disregarding what the original manufacture of your speakers has done for you already, which is pre-tuning your speakers. Every car has a different acoustical reaction based on what surfaces they bound off and the space that you're in. You can't expect someone to give you a set of speakers and automatically sound perfect. It takes work. No more just bass and treble controls, you can set your own crossover points and slope. You can EQ in more detail for those nasty peaks, and you can also time align to make your music have the illusion that

It's not like you "need" a DSP to make your system sound good. It just gives you all the control in your finger tips, which can be a curse and a blessing in the same time. In reality, there is no perfect tune. You do it based on your taste instead of someone telling you this is what good sound is. It will take you to the next level but at a price that's gonna be more investing than any normal system. There are plenty of people who are happy without a DSP though because it keeps things simple and cost effective. If you don't know what you're doing with it, it's best not to go this route because you could end up sounding worse. I would research more if you're serious about it. Don't think you'll conquer tuning in a day either.

 

[TwistedSkillz]

If you really want high end SQ sound, then you need to ditch the passive crossovers completely and go with active tuning. This would require buying a DSP(digital signal processor) and the tuning gets a lot more complicated and in-depth than a normal crossover that you're used to. I would not recommend this for most people though as it takes an extensive amount of time to tune and you will rip your hair out trying to figure it out. If you guys are ready to do it though, then some of us can help you with that. DSP's are pretty expensive though and you're gonna need a channel for every speaker. So a 4 channel would only be sufficient for 2 tweeters and 2 mids. Since you already bought the CDT speakers, you might as well use them. You could go active for the front stage and go passive in the back for rear fill, which would require 6 channels in total. It is completely up to you.

The DSP looks nice. I saw a Nice Alpine one that I liked for him. around 700 tho. But it is really nice and I think I may get it one if I can find one for a good price.

When You say Active for the Front Stage and Passive for the Rear Fill, what do you mean by that?

And why would it require a total of 6 Channels?

I understand. But your speakers will sound as good as the install or treatment I'll say this tho. Most component sets. That are good or better starts around $300+ if he wants sq. then in only focus more on the front stage and doors. The rears should only be do fill and really don't need that much power So a nice deck. A dap and front components powered by an amp Then rear fill should be just mids or coax speakers on deck power not many amps out will do a true 200 x 4 rms

Ok So the Comp 6x9 that he has are Good/Great? On a Scale 1 being ****** and 10 being the best out there, where do these lie?

And I agree with the Rear being just fill. We are not trying to get much bass out the rear. The fronts is where the Bass hits.

With the Stock Setup, It has a 320watt Amp and Boston Acustic speakers with stock deck. It did sound good and people thought I had a system. Now that he has added these new CDT speakers they are not hitting the frequencies the BA were. And these are popping. I am thinking it has to be the amp.

He is running the Decks HPF with the fronts on 63hz and the rear at 100hz All the speakers are being ran off the 1 Amp that he has in the truck now. It was an old amp he had laying around, But it seems to be the culprit.

So You are saying that he should Just wire the Rear speakers to the Deck itself? And not an amp??? I rather have the Speakers off the amp because these need power, and the amp will produce that power.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

250 on a DSP and 250 on a 4 channel and you'll have the nicest SQ in town - provided you take the proper steps to install the speakers into a deadened environment

the reason your speakers are popping is they're bottoming out, use a HPF at 80-100hz or lower the power to those speakers. you cant cross those speakers that low lol even with a 48db/oct

 

[TwistedSkillz]

Check out keephopealives build logs he does an amazing job. I will disagree that you will need a subwoofer somewhere, it can be a single 8 but you will need to get down to 30hz somehow or your missing a lot from your music. Throwing money at things usually isn't the answer. A $300 set of components will sound great of done right, hell a $70 set of silver flutes and $50 set of vifa tweets will sound amazing run active!

We are thinking about it, but he needs the trunk space and he isnt sure where to install a 8 or 10in sub. I was thinking into the Rear Quaterpanels plastic, Like I did in my ZJ but not sure if he has the room.

Any ideas?

 

[TwistedSkillz]

250 on a DSP and 250 on a 4 channel and you'll have the nicest SQ in town - provided you take the proper steps to install the speakers into a deadened environment
the reason your speakers are popping is they're bottoming out, use a HPF at 80-100hz or lower the power to those speakers. you cant cross those speakers that low lol even with a 48db/oct

Thank you much, what DSP and 4 channel amp do you recommend?

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

The DSP looks nice. I saw a Nice Alpine one that I liked for him. around 700 tho. But it is really nice and I think I may get it one if I can find one for a good price.
When You say Active for the Front Stage and Passive for the Rear Fill, what do you mean by that?

And why would it require a total of 6 Channels?

Ok So the Comp 6x9 that he has are Good/Great? On a Scale 1 being ****** and 10 being the best out there, where do these lie?

And I agree with the Rear being just fill. We are not trying to get much bass out the rear. The fronts is where the Bass hits.

With the Stock Setup, It has a 320watt Amp and Boston Acustic speakers with stock deck. It did sound good and people thought I had a system. Now that he has added these new CDT speakers they are not hitting the frequencies the BA were. And these are popping. I am thinking it has to be the amp.

He is running the Decks HPF with the fronts on 63hz and the rear at 100hz All the speakers are being ran off the 1 Amp that he has in the truck now. It was an old amp he had laying around, But it seems to be the culprit.

So You are saying that he should Just wire the Rear speakers to the Deck itself? And not an amp??? I rather have the Speakers off the amp because these need power, and the amp will produce that power.

You don't want the tears to over power the frt what amp ? If it's a stock amp. It's not 320 rms. It's max. Which means nothing. It's sounded so good because of the way the speakers are sealed up to the doors. So you need to recreate that with the Cdt set. It's a 7 out of 10 on them

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Thank you much, what DSP and 4 channel amp do you recommend?

8ch mini dsp if you want higher quality, 8ch soundsteam harmony or ppi dsp 88r if you want to save money

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

@TwistedSkillz ; a friend of mine has a minty Zapco Z150.4

Zapco Z150.4
$400 — Fergus Falls, Minnesota
Specs:
4 Channel H-E SQ Full range class A/B
Power @ 2Ω: 4 x 250 watts
Power @ 4Ω: 2 x 500 watts
RMS Rated Power @ < 0.05%THD
Power @ 2Ω: 4 x 250 watts
Power @ 4Ω: 4 x 150 watts
Bridged @ 4Ω: 2 x 500 watts
condition 9.5-10
very slight scratches on heat sink (pictured)
$400.00 shipped in the continental US
NO TRADES

I will get the pics up if your interested.

@weshole ;

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

honestly i don't like class D full range amps.. the very high-end ones are decent but i question if they are worth the money. not when you have class G and H and even some AB amps that are much more efficient now n days.

if you don't mind spending a bit extra for the high efficiency great sounding amps. Id look into the arc audio KS line. they sound as good as any midrange-low highend class AB amps and are about as efficient as a full range class D..

SYN 4 - Wet Sounds 4-Channel 800 Watts Amplifier

KS 300.4 - ARC Audio 4 Channel 700 Watt Amplifier

these are two pretty highend class g/h amps. which are about 78-82% efficient @ 4ohm and both of this will do 100-120 watts very clean..

IF your going to use a class D full range pretty much anything under 400 bucks is not going to sound great..

XDi 600.4 - Arc Audio 4-Channel 600W RMS Class D Car Amplifier

ST-4D - Zapco 4-Channel 640W RMS Class D Full Range Amplifier

Draconia III - ZED Audio 4-Channel Amplifier

honestly id go with the class G over the d but thats just me.. most people are as picky as i am..

 

[weshole 10+ year member]

[quote name='AnthonyO']@TwistedSkillz ; a friend of mine has a minty Zapco Z150.4

Zapco Z150.4
$400 — Fergus Falls, Minnesota
Specs:
4 Channel H-E SQ Full range class A/B
Power @ 2Ω: 4 x 250 watts
Power @ 4Ω: 2 x 500 watts
RMS Rated Power @ < 0.05%THD
Power @ 2Ω: 4 x 250 watts
Power @ 4Ω: 4 x 150 watts
Bridged @ 4Ω: 2 x 500 watts
condition 9.5-10
very slight scratches on heat sink (pictured)
$400.00 shipped in the continental US
NO TRADES

I will get the pics up if your interested.

@weshole ;[/QUOTE]

Thanks Anthony for posting on my behalf. I do have this amp available.