Speaker help.

[kouger]

Hi all
I need some help.
I have a 2016 Sonata Limited with JBL speakers in the dash. Not sure what the rest of the system is but I think it’s the premium sound.
One of the dash speakers is blown. I still get sound of it but the volume is very low compared to the other dash speaker. (not the center dash, I am talking about the ones by the sides).
Crutchfield suggested a kiker 47KSC27014 as they would fit without modification to the car.
I bought the kickers and connected them up but the volume is way lower than the original speakers.

I tried to find an original speaker but I am not prepared to pay upwards of $154 for one speaker from Huyndai. I tried a scrap yard as well but they all seem to have a lower grade speaker in the dash.

The speaker that came out of the car has the following label on it
JBL 96320-3S250
8923013301A
30215-J0801

I also tried the Sundown Audio SA-2.075 which were better than the kikers but too small. I do believe I can go to a 3.5" speaker for the sides on the dash.

My thought process is that for about the same price as one OEM speaker, I could just replace the 3 in the dash and 2 front doors speakers. Might cost a bit more but I wouuld be replacing 5 speakers.

Does anyone have an idea of what kind of speakers I should put in. I do not want to change the amp at all. I believe the door speakers are 6.5"
Do I put midrange speakers in the doors and the dash or do I go with 2 way speakers etc. I don't play the music very loud at all but do like clear sound.
Also don't want to spend tons on the speakers.

Any ideas / suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

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[HardofWhoring]

No clue about your system, but I would pull the good speaker out on the other side. Use a multimeter on the speaker to see if it's 4 ohms. Factory systems, with factory amps are the ones that have goofy ohm ratings for budget amps, and might be odd wiring.

Factory systems with factory amps, are usually designed to where it's just best to use it all or none. The factory amps are usually really low wattage, with speakers designed for it. Then using that amp or not using the amp requires some adapter, (which offsets the cost of buying new equipment.

If your head unit doesn't have NAV, then you can get an aftermarket head unit that SHOULD do everything it does and more for $100-$200. If it's a double din, then a little more. Those kickers are 15-50w RMS, so they will play great off head unit power.

Were you happy with the factory system before the speaker went out?

 

[HardofWhoring]

That dam sun, why do people put their cars in the sun. Speaker sellers love sun. Mids, mids, and mids, Just put in all speakers full range subs, and poof genie says perfect. Ahhhhh tweeters, those damn blue tweeters-totters. lower frequency speakers, AND HIGHER frequency speakers. Poof genie likes again. No speakers in 2016. Sound bad. 2014 and 2017 sound gooder.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Pay no attention to the Neon RED28Rl behind the screen; he knows not what he speakers! The government banned sunlight infiltration years ago!

 

[spokey9]

Last time Neon red28Rl tried plugging his headphones into a walk man, he about burnt down the house...

He absolutely shouldn't be giving install advice...I doubt he could install a bumper sticker without a Metra adapter

 

[kouger]

The car has been garage kept and always had a sun shield when outside. The speaker coil appears to be seized (according to an audio installer).
My radio does have the NAV on it and I don't want to change it. I don't want to change anything on the setup other than the speakers.
Just trying to figure out what kind of speakers I should put in the front doors and the 3 on the dash.
I realize that the volume may be lower as I believe the current speakers on the dash are 2 Ohm (according to another installer) however if I replace the 5 up front then at least it should balance out the volume up front to some degree - does that seem realistic?
I did remove the working speaker on the other side and test the ohms but could there were a few different terminals to test from so not sure what the true reading would be. There is a cap in there with heat shrink around it and did not want to tear it apart just yet.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Seriously, just bail the current setup, get a Kicker LOC, a small taramps 400x4 amp, replace front and the rear doors with NVX coaxials and you're rock'n it!

Recoil 4 channel LOC #19.00
Amazon product ASIN B09MTHDJ7D
Amp $75.00
Amazon product ASIN B07YVMJFB9
Speakers front and back $160.00 for two pari:
Amazon product ASIN B00C772WFA
Wiring kit for the amp $27.00
Amazon product ASIN B0C8VCNPWR
An extra RCA $9.00
Amazon product ASIN B07F7D8SJ6
That's $289 and change plus tax and the end result is a MUCH better (and much louder) set up than you had or will have.

 

[HardofWhoring]

Having NAV is the difference between a $100-$200 head unit, and a nearly $1K head unit. Can't blame you for wanting to keep it.

If you have that many speakers up front, I doubt they are two way. Three in the dash plus door speakers would be a lot of high freq. If the dash are all tweeter size, I would bet just tweeter. The 3.5" in the door could be two way, but I'lll bet they are mids, (based on having 3 in the dash).

You can tell by looking at em. Two way have two drivers. If they just have a cone with nothing on top, it's not a two or three way.

 

[kouger]

The door speakers are 6.5”
The two side dash are 2.75” but the hole is bigger so can get a 3.5” in there
I am not sure what the center dash size is. I think it’s 4.5” maybe 5.5”.
I know the center is just a cone but the side dash have a cone and something else on it.
I have not opened the door yet.
I don’t want to mess with the amp or add anything other than speakers. Don’t care about blasting my neighbors but do care about clear crisp sound.

 

[kouger]

This is the head unit

 

[HardofWhoring]

Looks like 15 year old tech on the nav screen display, but hey its got nav.

On those first two pictures, those are two way speakers.

That is the other driver. If you have this, it's at least a two way speaker.

This is a midrange, you can tell by looking at the cone

 

[kouger]

The car is a 2016 with original equipment.
The center speaker is like your second pic so I guess a mid.
I believe the doors then are also mids from what research I’ve done. Won’t know for sure until I take the panels off.
So based on what we know now, what would you suggest I put in. Mids in the doors and center dash. And 2 ways on the side dash?
What brand and model numbers would you suggest.
I figure with this setup the volume would be a little louder in the rear but I can adjust fader for that but at least the sound would hopefully be clearer and I won’t hear any more distortion from the front speakers when on a call.
Forgot to mention that even with the blown speaker removed, there is some distortion on the other speaker when on a phone call. I have to keep the volume low but then it’s difficult to hear the caller

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Seriously, just bail the current setup, get a Kicker LOC, a small taramps 400x4 amp, replace front and the rear doors with NVX coaxials and you're rock'n it!

Recoil 4 channel LOC #19.00
Amazon product ASIN B09MTHDJ7D
Amp $75.00
Amazon product ASIN B07YVMJFB9
Speakers front and back $160.00 for two pari:
Amazon product ASIN B00C772WFA
Wiring kit for the amp $27.00
Amazon product ASIN B0C8VCNPWR
An extra RCA $9.00
Amazon product ASIN B07F7D8SJ6
That's $289 and change plus tax and the end result is a MUCH better (and much louder) set up than you had or will have.

The car has been garage kept and always had a sun shield when outside. The speaker coil appears to be seized (according to an audio installer).
My radio does have the NAV on it and I don't want to change it. I don't want to change anything on the setup other than the speakers.
Just trying to figure out what kind of speakers I should put in the front doors and the 3 on the dash.
I realize that the volume may be lower as I believe the current speakers on the dash are 2 Ohm (according to another installer) however if I replace the 5 up front then at least it should balance out the volume up front to some degree - does that seem realistic?
I did remove the working speaker on the other side and test the ohms but could there were a few different terminals to test from so not sure what the true reading would be. There is a cap in there with heat shrink around it and did not

My suggestion includes keeping the existing HU. Why would invest almost, if not the same amount of money in replacing a bunch OEM speakers when to do so just gets you back to the OEM quality and sound limitations? Doing something like what I suggested would result in a far better sounding setup and requires about the same amount of work in the end. It would be louder and cleaner and would not rob you of any functionality.

 

[HardofWhoring]

The car is a 2016 with original equipment.
The center speaker is like your second pic so I guess a mid.
I believe the doors then are also mids from what research I’ve done. Won’t know for sure until I take the panels off.
So based on what we know now, what would you suggest I put in. Mids in the doors and center dash. And 2 ways on the side dash?
What brand and model numbers would you suggest.
I figure with this setup the volume would be a little louder in the rear but I can adjust fader for that but at least the sound would hopefully be clearer and I won’t hear any more distortion from the front speakers when on a call.
Forgot to mention that even with the blown speaker removed, there is some distortion on the other speaker when on a phone call. I have to keep the volume low but then it’s difficult to hear the caller

In YOUR pictures, the first and second pic look to have a thin screen over the top to possibly keep dust out, but that is a two way speaker.

You can change em if you want, but the problem you're going to have with EVERY speaker you choose while keeping the factory head unit and amp, is:
1. They might be a different ohm rating then your factory, &
2. I'm still waiting to see one factory amp, (that wouldn't be in a 100K + vehicle), is they are just low on wattage. Vehicles and their stereos aren't designed for us. They are designed for the 90% of people who don't care, won't complain, or never turn it up loud enough to even know how loud it goes. That stereo was designed by engineers, and then probably cut back by accountants, because they can save a few bucks and most people will never notice a difference.

That factory speaker they want you to spend $150 on, is probably a $30 speaker at best, if you compared it to the rest of the market and not the exact part number the dealer will be able to charge for since some people are just going to go with being told what to do.

It won't be louder. It won't be louder. It won't be louder. Whatever speakers you add, are going to be designed for more power, and they are going to get less than what they are rated for. I would fully expect your NEW max volume is going to be equal to about 2-3 notches LOWER from where your max is now. Volume is voltage, and you can't control anything on that factory amp, you just get the volume knob on the head unit. If you want more volume, you need more voltage going to the speakers.

100% giving you the cold facts at having a fancy factory setup like that. (If it didn't have NAV, I would really try to talk you into ripping the entire thing out, but with nav I wouldn't). You either:
1. Need to be happy with it as is, replace what's broken, or replace it as budget as you can and expect that it might get a hair worse... OR,
2. You keep your head unit, you get a LOC, an amp, and better speakers.
There is no middle ground there. There is nothing easy to make it slightly better. You fix it so it works, or you go about doing it the long way, and while you are doing it the long way, you go as big as you want, because it only costs a little more now.