Speaker help.

This is what I'm saying, he already said it. It's fix it so its as good as it was, or you get the package figured out.

Seriously, just bail the current setup, get a Kicker LOC, a small taramps 400x4 amp, replace front and the rear doors with NVX coaxials and you're rock'n it!

Recoil 4 channel LOC #19.00
Amazon product ASIN B09MTHDJ7D
Amp $75.00
Amazon product ASIN B07YVMJFB9
Speakers front and back $160.00 for two pari:
Amazon product ASIN B00C772WFA
Wiring kit for the amp $27.00
Amazon product ASIN B0C8VCNPWR
An extra RCA $9.00
Amazon product ASIN B07F7D8SJ6
That's $289 and change plus tax and the end result is a MUCH better (and much louder) set up than you had or will have.
 
I appreciate all the feedback from everyone.
I am not sure what the LOC does and did not really want to mess with any wiring in the car. Back when I was 20 something I would have changed out the entire system but now, quite honestly I don't feel like spending time doing it. As mentioned, I don't care about how loud my system is going to be and just want to get something in there that won't distort when answering a call.
If I were to put in a new amp, I assume I would have to find the location of the old one and replace it with the new one - don't really want to start pulling things apart. Also what happens to the 3 speakers on the dash as the new amp would power the front and rear doors. I believe the dash speakers are for the phone audio when making a call. Would I need a separate amp for the dash speakers as well?

You mentioned NVX coaxials - I take it these are better than the kikers ? I would think that either of these would be better than the factory speakers?
 
Looks similar to what I just dealt with in my dad's santa fe. He has the infinity 12 speaker system. The doors are 2 ohm in his, so if yours are also, that would explain the low output when you replace the speaker with a 4ohm as the amp will give that speaker less power.
 
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Looks similar to what I just dealt with in my dad's santa fe. He has the infinity 12 speaker system. The doors are 2 ohm in his, so if yours are also, that would explain the low output when you replace the speaker with a 4ohm as the amp will give that speaker less power.
I too have the premium sound system - the label on the doors say infinity and the speakers are JBL - According to the specs there are 12 speakers and yes, I think they are 2Ohm - according to some other people I have asked.
I actually called JBL and they were no help - they told me to call Hyundai.
I can only see 3 dash speakers, 4 in the doors and one on the back panel by the window which I think is the sub.
I assume the others are tucked away somewhere and may be for the car sounds and not the audio from the stereo?
At this point, I think I am going to just change the 5 up front - 3 in the dash and the 2 front doors. Hopefully the sound will not distort when on a call and will at least sound decent while playing music. Can't be worse then what it is now.
One question though - did you have to install a cap on the speakers you put in? Or did the speakers come with them?

Thanks
 
Looks similar to what I just dealt with in my dad's santa fe. He has the infinity 12 speaker system. The doors are 2 ohm in his, so if yours are also, that would explain the low output when you replace the speaker with a 4ohm as the amp will give that speaker less power.
NVX makes a pretty decent line of 2ohm speakers if that is the primary concern (as opposed to a new amp and speakers).
I appreciate all the feedback from everyone.
I am not sure what the LOC does and did not really want to mess with any wiring in the car. Back when I was 20 something I would have changed out the entire system but now, quite honestly I don't feel like spending time doing it. As mentioned, I don't care about how loud my system is going to be and just want to get something in there that won't distort when answering a call.
If I were to put in a new amp, I assume I would have to find the location of the old one and replace it with the new one - don't really want to start pulling things apart. Also what happens to the 3 speakers on the dash as the new amp would power the front and rear doors. I believe the dash speakers are for the phone audio when making a call. Would I need a separate amp for the dash speakers as well?

You mentioned NVX coaxials - I take it these are better than the kikers ? I would think that either of these would be better than the factory speakers?
Okay, now that I know your take, understood. The LOC takes the high voltage (level( speaker leads and converts them to low lever RCA leads for you amplifier. Sounds like this is just not something you want to endulge, understood. NVX makes some fairly decent, low priced coaxial that should do the trick. And yes, much better than the factory speakers.

A 3.5”

https://nvx.com/collections/all-car-speakers/size_3-5

A 4”

https://nvx.com/collections/all-car...ial-car-speakers-with-20mm-silk-dome-tweeters

A 2ohm 6.5” component set which would add a little work to install but matches up with the other speakers too.

https://nvx.com/collections/all-car-speakers/size_6-5+impedance-ω_2

If you don’t want the comps and you want the front and rear speakers to match output from the factory amp (albeit a bit quieter for sure, replace the front and rear door speakers with these.

https://nvx.com/collections/all-car...coaxial-speakers-with-20mm-silk-dome-tweeters

“Life’s about choices - make one!”
 
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NVX makes a pretty decent line of 2ohm speakers if that is the primary concern (as opposed to a new amp and speakers).

Okay, now that I know your take, understood. The LOC takes the high voltage (level( speaker leads and converts them to low lever RCA leads for you amplifier. Sounds like this is just not something you want to endulge, understood. NVX makes some fairly decent, low priced coaxial that should do the trick. And yes, much better than the factory speakers.

A 3.5”

https://nvx.com/collections/all-car-speakers/size_3-5

A 4”

https://nvx.com/collections/all-car...ial-car-speakers-with-20mm-silk-dome-tweeters

A 2ohm 6.5” component set which would add a little work to install but matches up with the other speakers too.

https://nvx.com/collections/all-car-speakers/size_6-5+impedance-ω_2

If you don’t want the comps and you want the front and rear speakers to match output from the factory amp (albeit a bit quieter for sure, replace the front and rear door speakers with these.

https://nvx.com/collections/all-car...coaxial-speakers-with-20mm-silk-dome-tweeters

“Life’s about choices - make one!”
Thanks for the information.
I it looks like they have the 6.5" in a 2 ohm but not the rest. So I would just go with 4ohm on all of them.
The other problem I see is that the 3.5" and the 4" have a tweeter that sticks out too far, don't think it will fit in the dash if I want to put my covers back on.
The 6.5" for the doors may work, not sure the gap between the cover and the speaker. Will have to remove the covers this weekend.
 
A LOC is a Line Output Converter. It's just a way to get a signal to an amplifier, (more or less from a (factory) head unit that doesn't have RCA, (or 9 wire) outputs.

For an amp to work you need a signal and power (and ground). The LOC just acquires a signal, usually from a speaker wire, and is able to convert that into a signal that you can connect out by RCA, (and into your amp with RCA). If your head unit has RCA outputs, you wouldn't even need it.
 
Not sure what you mean a cap. It looks like your factory speakers have some kind of screen over the cone. If that's what you're referring to then no. My guess is it's just a screen to keep dust or other stuff from falling onto the speaker. If you mean on the other side, I don't see anything in the pictures that looks like what you are talking about.
 
Not sure what you mean a cap. It looks like your factory speakers have some kind of screen over the cone. If that's what you're referring to then no. My guess is it's just a screen to keep dust or other stuff from falling onto the speaker. If you mean on the other side, I don't see anything in the pictures that looks like what you are talking about.
Sorry, meant a capacitor (cap) :)
 
Do you have a Link ,or information to verify this Bull Shitt??
Monkey Omg GIF by MOODMAN
 
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