Speaker help.

[kouger]

I came across these the other day

JBL GX328 3-1/2" Coaxial​

Anyone have any experience with them?

 

[spokey9]

Home

Dayton Audio ND90-4 3-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Neo Driver 4 OhmDayton Audio's compact aluminum cone drivers demonstrate the latest advances in high-excursion design processes. An efficient, low-distortion Neo-Balanced motor is combined with a rigid yet lightweight aluminum diaphragm...

www.parts-express.com

Would something like these fit in your dash? They're under $50 the pair look pretty solid

 

[kouger]

They might fit. The reason I looked at the jbl was because they are 2.3 ohm. I believe the stock ones in my car are close to that impedance. With that in mind I think the volume level will be close to what it is now. If I go with a 4 ohm then the volume level will be lower than the rest of the speakers. This way the can leave the door speakers and just change the dash.
I just can’t seem to find the dimensions for the screw holes on the jbl. I’ll try calling jbl later.

 

[deadrx7conv 10+ year member]

Measure the resistance of your stock side dash speakers to get an idea about their impedance. With harman/jbl/infinity/levinson.... never assume. Different ohm rating is NOT the end all. A combination of speaker capability, efficacy, efficiency, and its impedance will determine whether it'll be close enough to work with the OE tuning, and power provided, for/from/by your vehicle. I'd test the center too.

Concerning the door, loss of volume level with higher impedance speakers depends on efficiency comparison of old vs new, and depends on honesty, or lack of honesty, concerning aftermarket speaker specifications, which are usually off by a mile.

Concerning the dash, considerably less power is needed to produce midrange and tweeter output when compared to the door woofer(midbassmidwoofer). So, you shouldn't be hearing much of a difference if afternarket dash side speakers were wired properly, with consideration to the signal coming from the OE/Infinity/Hyundai amplifier. You need to learn what frequency range is sent there and make sure your chosen speaker can play it!

Need to run a test tone sweep and mic to see what frequencies the door is getting and what the dash(each side and center) is getting. Too many practice shotgun speaker replacement which never leads to happiness. Center dash is probably another 3.5 widebander as automakers push soundstage and complexity vs simplicity. If so, more than like highs and not mids in the left/right side speakers. Test away.

At 1st, you wanted a replacement L/R dash speaker set. Now you/some are talking about amps/LOCs.... doors/centerdash..... Do you want to go down that rabbit hole?

If you were happy with the OE system, then the best best is a new dash speaker, or used from salvage yard/ebay. BTW, Toyota also used a dash coaxial on their JBL system. If you can't find it from Hyundai, the maybe look at a few salvage yard Toyota's with JBL and see if you can make it fit. 86160-0WU50 usually found in various JBL equipped Toyotas and can be adapted to almost anywhere a 2.7-3.5" widebander were originally fitted. A few years back, I grabbed a pair from the local pick salvage for $10. Didn't sound any better/worse than the common overhyped pathetic sounding kicker/jbl/infinity/kenwood 3.5" coaxial many thought sounded great.

Learn about your OE infinity system prior to shotgun attempts are making it better.

Besides jbl/infinity, Memphis, MassiveAudio, Audison, CDT, NVX, Focal, Powerbass are some other brands offering 2-ohm speakers.

 

[kouger]

Measure the resistance of your stock side dash speakers to get an idea about their impedance. With harman/jbl/infinity/levinson.... never assume. Different ohm rating is NOT the end all. A combination of speaker capability, efficacy, efficiency, and its impedance will determine whether it'll be close enough to work with the OE tuning, and power provided, for/from/by your vehicle. I'd test the center too.

Concerning the door, loss of volume level with higher impedance speakers depends on efficiency comparison of old vs new, and depends on honesty, or lack of honesty, concerning aftermarket speaker specifications, which are usually off by a mile.

Concerning the dash, considerably less power is needed to produce midrange and tweeter output when compared to the door woofer(midbassmidwoofer). So, you shouldn't be hearing much of a difference if afternarket dash side speakers were wired properly, with consideration to the signal coming from the OE/Infinity/Hyundai amplifier. You need to learn what frequency range is sent there and make sure your chosen speaker can play it!

Need to run a test tone sweep and mic to see what frequencies the door is getting and what the dash(each side and center) is getting. Too many practice shotgun speaker replacement which never leads to happiness. Center dash is probably another 3.5 widebander as automakers push soundstage and complexity vs simplicity. If so, more than like highs and not mids in the left/right side speakers. Test away.

At 1st, you wanted a replacement L/R dash speaker set. Now you/some are talking about amps/LOCs.... doors/centerdash..... Do you want to go down that rabbit hole?

If you were happy with the OE system, then the best best is a new dash speaker, or used from salvage yard/ebay. BTW, Toyota also used a dash coaxial on their JBL system. If you can't find it from Hyundai, the maybe look at a few salvage yard Toyota's with JBL and see if you can make it fit. 86160-0WU50 usually found in various JBL equipped Toyotas and can be adapted to almost anywhere a 2.7-3.5" widebander were originally fitted. A few years back, I grabbed a pair from the local pick salvage for $10. Didn't sound any better/worse than the common overhyped pathetic sounding kicker/jbl/infinity/kenwood 3.5" coaxial many thought sounded great.

Learn about your OE infinity system prior to shotgun attempts are making it better.

Besides jbl/infinity, Memphis, MassiveAudio, Audison, CDT, NVX, Focal, Powerbass are some other brands offering 2-ohm speakers.

Thank you so much for your feedback.
I definitely don't want to change out the system or add anything to it other than replacing the speakers.
The only reason I thought about changing the doors and the dash were because I thought if I can only get 4 ohms for the dash then possibly changing the doors as well would balance out the volume to some degree.
Your explanation makes a lot of sense to me.
This is what I have:
Center dash - 2.2 ohms. Does not look like there is a capacitor and looks like there is NO tweeter - just a cone.
Dimensions:
4" Diameter
Screw holes 5.25" diameter
Depth - 2"
Magnet size - 1.375" diameter

Side dash - 2.2 ohms measured from the connector that goes to the amp/radio. There is a capacitor and when testing across that I get a reading of 6.2 ohms
Dimensions:
3.25" Diameter
Screw holes 3.625" diameter
Depth - 1.75" however the wire connector is attached to the bottom of the magnet and increases the depth to 2.5"
Magnet size - 1.375" diameter

I did go to a salvage yard (actually 2 of them) and could not find anything. Then again I was only looking at Hyundai and Kia.
The only things I found were speakers that did not have a tweeter in them. They were just cones. I did buy a set to test but the sound was worse than what I have.

I have removed the blown speaker as well as the center dash. The problem I have now is that when I make a phone call, the voice comes through on the other dash speaker and it sounds terrible. There is a lot of distortion unless I turn the volume down quite a bit. But then I can't really hear the person speaking. I know when the center dash and the other side dash is installed it plays through all 3 of them.

I appreciate all your feedback. Thanks

 

[deadrx7conv 10+ year member]

What are the uF on that left/right dash speaker capacitor? Since I can't tell from the photos, is that cap inline with the little tweeter, the bigger 2.7" cone, or both? Or is the L/R tweeter only, or coaxial?

Center sounds like a midranger. 2ohm speaker in that size is rare. CDT makes one with 4-ohm DVC. Run it in parallel and you'll have something close. You will have to make a mount for it. And, without testing, you'll never know whether it sounds better or worse.
https://www.cdtaudio.com/sep_components/midwoofers/es03dvc.php If you need highs from the center dash, squeeze in a pair of minitweeters run in parallel and with a bassblocker, tied into the mentioned es03dvc. Not sure how Hyundaifinity create that center channel sound or its frequency range. If the center dash is working, I wouldn't bother touching it. Another option is a couple of 4-ohm 2" speakers wired in parallel mounted side by side in the center. What is feasible for some of us is difficult for others. Both the 2011/2017 Hyundai Sonata that graced my driveway did NOT have the PITA premium Infinity/JBL nightmare for a reason.

You'll never find a close enough L/R dash speaker. Its hit or miss until you find a pair that sounds right, either with the OE center dash or whatever aftermarket equivalent you build. This is why overpaying for the dealer OE replacement, installing it, and getting on with your life is the best option. You'll spend much time an 5x as much trying find something work just as well. For example, the Memphis VIV603cv2 costs $700 and you'll not even use its crossovers.

 

[kouger]

What are the uF on that left/right dash speaker capacitor? Since I can't tell from the photos, is that cap inline with the little tweeter, the bigger 2.7" cone, or both? Or is the L/R tweeter only, or coaxial?

Center sounds like a midranger. 2ohm speaker in that size is rare. CDT makes one with 4-ohm DVC. Run it in parallel and you'll have something close. You will have to make a mount for it. And, without testing, you'll never know whether it sounds better or worse.
https://www.cdtaudio.com/sep_components/midwoofers/es03dvc.php If you need highs from the center dash, squeeze in a pair of minitweeters run in parallel and with a bassblocker, tied into the mentioned es03dvc. Not sure how Hyundaifinity create that center channel sound or its frequency range. If the center dash is working, I wouldn't bother touching it. Another option is a couple of 4-ohm 2" speakers wired in parallel mounted side by side in the center. What is feasible for some of us is difficult for others. Both the 2011/2017 Hyundai Sonata that graced my driveway did NOT have the PITA premium Infinity/JBL nightmare for a reason.

You'll never find a close enough L/R dash speaker. Its hit or miss until you find a pair that sounds right, either with the OE center dash or whatever aftermarket equivalent you build. This is why overpaying for the dealer OE replacement, installing it, and getting on with your life is the best option. You'll spend much time an 5x as much trying find something work just as well. For example, the Memphis VIV603cv2 costs $700 and you'll not even use its crossovers.

So from what I can tell, the driver and the tweeter are connected together. The cap is inline with the tweeter.
The cap has a marking on it 3.3 uF. 63WV
When I put my meter on across the cap I get 8 ohms
When I test across the tweeter connectors I get I get 6.2 ohms
When I test across the driver / cone I get 2 ohms
When I test across the pins for the speaker wires I get 2 ohms

Now I just bought the JBL GX328. This is the spec from their website:
Power Handling: 25Wrms, 75W Peak Frequency Response: 90Hz – 21kHz Impedance: 2.3 ohms Sensitivity (@ 2.83V/m): 89dB
When I test across the pins for the speaker wires I get 2.4 ohms.

There is a cap on the JBL GX328 with the marking of 3.9 uF. 5 0 V.
One side of the cap is connected to the smaller of the two pins and the other is running under the sticker on the magnet and goes inside somewhere - can't see it.

So I connected up the GX328's and I did notice that the volume is slightly lower on the GX328 than the original speakers.
The other thing that was a big difference is that the GX328's have more bass and what seems to me like less mid.
The high pitch sounds (like cymbals of a drum) are much clearer and more prevalent.
The original speakers seem to have much more mid than the GX328 - could this be because of the capacitors.

Would removing the capacitor from the GX328 cause any damage to the speaker - or swapping them with the original speakers capacitors make any difference.
I would prefer to get more mids out of the new GX328 - I don't care if there is more base from them as it seems sound better in the car - just not crazy about the low mids.

One thing I am happy about is that there is no distortion when a call comes in.
Oh, I also bought the JBL GX428 and will probably swap that out with the center one.
GX428 4" coaxial car audio loudspeaker Power Handling: 35Wrms, 105W Peak Frequency Response: 75Hz – 21kHz Impedance: 2.3 ohms Sensitivity (@ 2.83V/m): 90dB

Any idea what the cap on the GX328's is for?
Thanks for your help.

Thanks again for your help.

 

[deadrx7conv 10+ year member]

The capacitor on either is the bass blocker for the tweeter. Shouldn't be affecting anything else.
Don't swap or add capacitors. The cap is spec'd for the tweeter. Without it, the tweeter simply blows.

Get some door speakers to match, and enjoy your nightmare.

BTW, will take 20hrs for the speakers to loosen up and break in.

When blindly swapping speakers, the end result is what you live with, unless you install a dsp/eq.

 

[kouger]

The capacitor on either is the bass blocker for the tweeter. Shouldn't be affecting anything else.
Don't swap or add capacitors. The cap is spec'd for the tweeter. Without it, the tweeter simply blows.

Get some door speakers to match, and enjoy your nightmare.

BTW, will take 20hrs for the speakers to loosen up and break in.

When blindly swapping speakers, the end result is what you live with, unless you install a dsp/eq.

Thanks for the help.
I was about to install them but remembered seeing a website where they mentioned that the connectors on the JBL were reversed (positive and negative). I tested the speakers and saw that the larger tab on the speaker is actually the positive. This was not the case for the Kikers.
I then decided to test the output of the speakers connectors from the car. I had bought the Red Wolf Wiring Harness a few days back to make things easier and eliminate my having to solder anything. So when I connected the Red Wolf Harness I then tested the outputs and noticed that the larger terminal on the left side was the negative but yet the larger terminal on the right side was the positive.
The center speaker terminals are the same as the left side.

Any thoughts?

 

[kouger]

I did come across another forum where they were changing out the speakers and one of the posts mentioned the reverse polarity.
Now this is beyond me and I am not understanding it all - just want to make sure I connect the speakers up correctly. Should I connect the speakers in reverse per the post below or connect them correctly according to what I tested?

Here is the comment from the other forum:

With very, very few exceptions (like a manufacturing error) a + voltage applied to the + speaker terminal results in forward/outward movement of the cone. It easy to see on a woof or mid, but you may have to use your finger to feel the movement on a tweet.

In any case, in system design, especially for even order (2nd, 4th...) passive crossovers, the crossover electrical terminals will be flipped in polarity on one driver; + crossover output to - terminal on tweet, for example. This is done to prevent a rather deep response hole in the combined acoustic response, where the woof and tweet interact (cancel each other) acoustically at crossover. Flipping the tweet to + polarity connection for a even order crossover (popular topologies) will create a hole that some people might initially find pleasant, but may later realize it just ***** out that portion of the music.

For electronic crossovers, the polarity flip typically happens in the electronics, where all the drivers are electrically connected + to +.