China buildhouse sub pics

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

No I buy stuff through eBay all the time and I NEVER GIFT MONEY. And stuff comes from China in like 2-4weeks... Just bought my buddy a fluke meter that's on it way

what fluke meter, good price? lmk how it turns out

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

He claims to not care about the meter, but mark my words if this was loud we wouldn't hear the end of what numbers it does and he wouldn't be already ready to scrap it. Warden or DD-Z isn't really something that anybody "upgrades" out of, so you know something is terribly wrong here and new woofers won't fix it.


If you're not married to the idea of 10" spiders or 4" coils softparts shouldn't be that expensive. I can do 3" 4 layer coil subs for @ 100$ with all American made parts. Even going with Ti frames and 4" coils 250$ per sub should be pretty easy to accomplish.

Happen to have 2 matching motors that could be built? Was gonna grab some sda3's since on presale but after further thought I said why in the hell am I buying the same old cookie cutter subs that I've owned many times before just with different logo on cap..

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Its not about bragging rights dummy. It's about setting up a baseline and seeing if you improve, where, how, all that crap. It's the same reason a lot of people dyno their car BEFORE getting work done. To get a baseline and measure the delta. Pay 35 bucks you tight azz. You're about to spend thousands anyway.
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Improving on the meter doesn't always seem louder to the ear.

I know @Jefdacheff; Said that he sat in a 160db+ vehicle that didn't seem loud

Ok, i'll use 4" as example-
$2,500 motors- You sell the 5th for $500 and lets start-

Motor- $500

Basket- $73 (shipping?)

Cone- $51 (shipping?)

Spider- $27 (shipping?)

VC- $75 (shipping?)

Cap- $35 (shipping?)

Cost for 1 speaker so far- $761 (shipping?)

Total cost so far- $3,544

Now for the interesting part...

Import Duty Fees. There will be no exact number because of how your broker and shipper declares the PAID amount minus shipping charges..

For $3,544, if they declare $2,500 of it, that should be around $123 in fees to release your shipment from the airport hub.

For the state of illinois, for you physically paying $3,544, you will owe 6.25% Use Tax on next year's taxes.

This is $221.50. You can "risk" not paying it as most people do not who do out of state purchases, but inbound to customs orders get requested quite often from State departments who meet their minimum search criteria to see if people who are importing X amount are paying taxes on it.

Failure to not report tax AND keep letting it go will not give you any leniency when/if the State finds out about it.

So, in short, Pay the Use Tax to avoid potential conflict with your local government.

Divide the 2 fees by 4 and this one sub will now be at- $845 and that's assuming no shipping charges on all the other items.

Ok, whew.. Just wanted you to see this so your decisions stay accurate. I'm not suggesting what path to take, just letting you see what you are wanting to do.

IF an actual shipping company is moving these for you, then you do not need to hire a broker. If they are only transporting from airport to airport.. The fees will be a little higher because they will declare maximum value and also have to pay broker for their time and releasing fee. Typical broker fees are around $130-200 for small shipments (under $15,000)

Shipping will be either FedEx or DHL. I have used DHL to ship $2,000 of merchandise from China before. It was an electronic fuel injection kit a few years ago. It was not flagged and I didn't have to deal with customs at all. They just shipped it like normal. No extra taxes/fees or government involvement. I'm not having pallets of motors shipped to my house, lol

bro the guy wants to buy 5 motors from China. he's not going to do all that. if you buy something on eBay from China, do you do all that nonsense?

Yep

I hear you. I like the spirit of adventure that's going on here, though. Sourcing specialized parts to build one's own. I can't hate on that.

He'll hate on me regardless of what I do. I've gotten used to it.

That's good to hear. It's much more enjoyable for all around daily use.
Good luck with it, I hope you can get the sound or affect you're after. It will be costly but it might be worth it for you since it will have that feeling of accomplishment attached to it.

I would buy the pair of 5100's and call it a day but I'm old, lol.

Thanks, I know you tune super low. I'd like to tune low with lots of cone area. I just don't know if two 18's would be enough for me

 

[trust fund baby]

I know he built the bottom one (BASSMAXX), not sure about the others. Couple of those pics are mine from when I had the Aura NRT and the 15" top. I did finally manage to get a radial neo back in my hands so I'm pretty excited about that.
Still the cheaper route for him I think, lol.

I thought you had some fricken subwoofers?

I hear you. I like the spirit of adventure that's going on here, though. Sourcing specialized parts to build one's own. I can't hate on that.

That's good to hear. It's much more enjoyable for all around daily use.

Good luck with it, I hope you can get the sound or affect you're after. It will be costly but it might be worth it for you since it will have that feeling of accomplishment attached to it.

I would buy the pair of 5100's and call it a day but I'm old, lol.

I got all kinds of subwoofers. I want frixken subWOFFERS, asthe ad lists.

 

[trust fund baby]

Ive got some worx neo motors. They is the ****.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

I got all kinds of subwoofers. I want frixken subWOFFERS, asthe ad lists.

Oh, gotcha. Surprised I missed that one.

Ive got some worx neo motors. They is the ****.

Please give me those motors, lol. Some of my favorites.

 

[trust fund baby]

Oh, gotcha. Surprised I missed that one.
Please give me those motors, lol. Some of my favorites.

I might think bout it. fer realz. ill let you know.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

I might think bout it. fer realz. ill let you know.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Improving on the meter doesn't always seem louder to the ear.

So says the guy who has never metered.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

So says the guy who has never metered.

Yep

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

I'd need at least 4 to get similar cone area to what I have now. If I just got two, I probably wouldn't even be as loud as I am now
Going for loud to the ear and low frequency response, not high numbers on the meter

If there is a cheaper option you know of, please enlighten me.

The products are un-marked. There will not be a trademark issue.

I'm going to re-do my wall either way

You can buy my wardens if you're looking for subs, lol

Baskets $73x4=$292:

18" TC Sounds TI Basket

Cones $51x4=$204:

18" Subwoofer Cone

Spiders with triple leads $27x4=$108:

10x4" Dual Layer Progressive Roll Nomex Spider

Voice coils $75x4=$300:

4" DUAL 2 ohm FLAT ALUMINUM WIRE VOICE COIL

8" glow in the dark "carbon fiber" //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif dust caps $35x4=$140:

8" Glow in the Dark

292+204+108+300+140= $1,044

Could be less than $1,000 if you got plain dust caps.

I know I didn't include the cost of glue. One of my science teachers has a ton of leftover CA glue from something. I used it to fix my headphones when they broke last week, and I'm sure he'd let me use some of it on the subs or I could buy it from him.

dude that cone weights 500 grams.. thats entirely to heavy.

you have any idea how stiff those spiders? you going to need at least 4 to bring the fs above 25 if they are the "SPL" spiders

that coil will fit but Id bet it weight 150+ grams so so far your looking at a MMS of around 650 grams.

even with a CMS of .045mm/n and a QES of .35 your still looking at a 89.8db 1w1m. that CMS number ill take 7-8 typical 10" progressive roll spider if you ca find some very very stifff ones you might beable to get away with 4-5

im not trying to tell you what to do i just hate to see you spend 4k and you not like it..

as compared to the mayhem 18 its ruffly going to take 2.5x the power to get said woofer louder. now granted you could probably send it 8k daily iit would be alitttle louder but thats 32kw..

now if you did some custom 3" diameter coils about 4"s tall i think you would be much better off but your going to need at least a 35mm topplate to get the BL..

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

dude that cone weights 500 grams.. thats entirely to heavy.you have any idea how stiff those spiders? you going to need at least 4 to bring the fs above 25 if they are the "SPL" spiders

that coil will fit but Id bet it weight 150+ grams so so far your looking at a MMS of around 650 grams.

even with a CMS of .045mm/n and a QES of .35 your still looking at a 89.8db 1w1m. that CMS number ill take 7-8 typical 10" progressive roll spider if you ca find some very very stifff ones you might beable to get away with 4-5

im not trying to tell you what to do i just hate to see you spend 4k and you not like it..

as compared to the mayhem 18 its ruffly going to take 2.5x the power to get said woofer louder. now granted you could probably send it 8k daily iit would be alitttle louder but thats 32kw..

now if you did some custom 3" diameter coils about 4"s tall i think you would be much better off but your going to need at least a 35mm topplate to get the BL..

Well, I was hoping for a low fs driver that I could send lots of power to thermally. I get that the weight is a problem, but I wanted a super soft suspension

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Well, I was hoping for a low fs driver that I could send lots of power to thermally. I get that the weight is a problem, but I wanted a super soft suspension

check it.. grab you a 4" cheap motor and test soft parts BEFORE ya drop 5k. i'm pretty familiar with designs while im not nearly as seasoned as nick, George or Jacob i've put together a few woofers and i have general knowledge so to speak.

a low FS does necessarily indicate greater lowend output there is a point of diminishing returns

when your building a woofer for a ported box you have to understand and compensate for the alignment you wish to use and how the enclosures dampening affects the woofer in order for it to sound a certain way.

you want a large box woofer or you prefer to use a smaller box and keep group delay low? do you want it to be peaky in 5-10hz or you want something with abit wider bandwidth? how low do you want it to play? i typically don't tuned be about 32 unless the design forces me too. like for example 24 or so for HT drivers..

the softer spiders require smaller boxes to keep the dampening high enough to properly control the woofer. the stiffer spiders can use a mush larger more efficent box by haveing much more control over the mass vs using hte com,pliance of the box to control the mass. typically the stiffer suspension and lower QE drivers peak harder and can have a higher total system efficiency from taking advantage of the larger box/port area. granted you loose alittle SQ because of hte phase shift and high group delay.

personally i build around 3 concepts. low mass, linear as possible designs while maintaining dampening for the alignment and excellent cooling/high power compression limits. the low mass helps automatically to be-able to LINEARLY control the mass both mechanically and electrically. you start stacking spiders and using several glue joints it only adds the possibility of non-linear stroke. some of the higheest distortion figure come from mechanical parts of the woofer at high output levels.

good luck and keep us updated

 

[The_Quiet_One 10+ year member]

[quote name='papermaker']check it.. grab you a 4" cheap motor and test soft parts BEFORE ya drop 5k. im pretty similar with design while im not nearly as seasoned as nick george or jacob ive put together a few woofers and i had general knowledge so to speak.
a low FS does necessarily indicate lowend output.

when your building a woofer for a ported box you have to understand and compensate for the alignment you wish to use and how the enclosures dampening affects the woofer in order for it to sound a certain way.

you want a large box woofer or you prefer to use a smaller box and keep group delay low? do you want it to be peaky in 5-10hz or you want something with abit wider bandwidth? how low do you want it to play? i typically don't tuned be about 32 unless the design forces me too. like for example 24 or so for HT drivers..

the softer spiders require smaller boxes to keep the dampening high enough to properly control the woofer. the stiffer spiders can use a mush larger more efficent box by haveing much more control over the mass vs using hte com,pliance of the box to control the mass. typically the stiffer suspension and lower QE drivers peak harder and can have a higher total system efficiency from taking advantage of the larger box/port area. granted you loose alittle SQ because of hte phase shift and high group delay.

personally i build around 3 concepts. low mass, linear as possible designs while maintaining dampening for the alignment and excellent cooling/high power compression limits. the low mass helps automatically to be-able to LINEARLY control the mass both mechanically and electrically. you start stacking spiders and using several glue joints it only adds the possibility of non-linear stroke. some of the higheest distortion figure come from mechanical parts of the woofer at high output levels.

good luck and keep us updated[/QUOTE]

Experience is the best teacher of them all.... not to mention the money loss should add a bit of sting as well. @adulbrich It would not hurt to read up on some things before you bite the bullet. I would review the physics of damped oscillators and then start looking for literature directly related to speaker/subwoofer design. The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook is an ok one to leaf through.

If you're still plan on being an engineer learning to thoroughly research a problem before throwing money at it would be one skill that definitely sets you ahead of most young engineers.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

as far as heavy *** cones. to make them stronger they just put alot more material and press them. no thank you.

I would start with a low mass thinner cone and design a lightweight lower cost carbon fiber dust cap that strengthens the cone not just sits on top.

you can order enough fiber and resin for 100 bucks to make 4 dust caps that are way stronger than the paper cone and about 1/4 the weight.

CARBON FIBER - GRAPHITE - KEVLAR the 2x2 twill 12k is much thicker/stronger. 12k would be ideal for a single layer dustcap

the above is just to get your ideas going this is the stuff Id use..

http://www.uscomposites.com/carbonpage.html the 19.7oz for structural and if you wanted to do like a hybrib you could layer it on top the tuff stuff. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif