Recent content by Umbra

It sounds like you've been thorough with your troubleshooting. It's not the speaker, nor is it the input cables/wires, nor is it the source. All that's left is the speaker wire between the amp and front left speaker or the amp itself. My money is on the former, the wire might be pinched...

I'd have to agree with you here. I don't remember if I switched them up because I was doing residential work at the time or just accidentally (probably the latter), but I use red/white for positive and black for negative in CA.

That's odd. Last time I ate a superhot on an empty stomach I had stomach pain for six hours. If I eat something with some carbs and fat beforehand I can enjoy them without that nasty side effect.

I've read if the subs are brand new and they're pushed hard excess glue can heat up and smell. However, I can't validate that claim. Are the subs becoming warm to the touch? You can check the coils with a multimeter to see if they've become damaged.

I really like Knukonceptz fused distro blocks. They use compression fittings, which work very well and mini ANL fuses. The fittings are for 8 gauge and larger, though. You could use a ring or spade terminal on small gauge wires with inline fuses and connect them under the screws upstream from...

Check if the voltmeter has a small potentiometer on it for calibration. If it does check the voltage at the amp with a multimeter and use a small screwdriver to turn it until the reading matches.

They look a lot like old Eclipse subs. I don't have any experience with them, so someone else could probably give you a better jumping off point, but here's something to work...

Rattling comes from two objects hitting each other while in motion. The best way to deal with these is track them down and put something between them to decouple them. You can buy adhesive closed cell foam weatherstripping rolls at any hardware store for a few bucks. It's normally use around...

I like the Noico brand. I think it's russian-made. It's like $60 for 32 square feet of 80-mil and it's easy to work with. It's not the best, but I think it does well at its price point and you could double-up if need be. I've used Knukonceptz knonoise stuff as well and it's very good, but...

Who was it on here that had that gif in their sig that illustrated the proper way to set gains? Use O-scope to find where it clips, turn it up some more, then turn it up some more, then turn it up a little more.

ccstang's right, I dun goofed. It should be 35.10Hz

If there's a bass boost option make sure that's all the way down. Set the gain to match the head unit's RCA output voltage (often 2V) if the dial has voltage markings. The HPF being set wrong probably doesn't affect the amp going into protect, but HPF is the high pass filter. You'd want this set...

We were all new once, don't sweat it. Your subs each have one voice coil each with a 4 ohm impedance. Your amp is a two channel amp that says it can do 250W @ 4 ohms per channel (so 250W on each channel to each speaker) - 8 ohms doesn't come into play because it's two different channels. When...

You could try inverting the subs to reduce the displaced volume. You could length to the port inside to drop the tuning if you can spare some net volume. If you add it to the outside you can drop the tuning without any drawbacks other than it looking odd and needing more room to fit it.

I tried doing it in Torres, got 35.28 Hz with 3/4" thick wood and 33.28 Hz with 1/2", no extra baffles, two common port walls.