500$ budget for new amp and sub

[Team TH (Donny) 10+ year member]

To bad you don't live close because I'd just build you the box for just cost of materials and maybe a pack of cigs, lol.

 

[Drummer65 10+ year member]

Ive got a sundown nightshade v1 d1 ohm. Will do $235+ ship on it.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

^ And pro-rabbit is the man to talk to. He also designs and builds custom enclosures shipped world-wide at very reasonable price, I wouldn't be surprised if his prices beat your local shops, and I'm sure the quality would.Unfortunately the SA series of subs aren't known to be optimal in a sealed box, though it will work, it'd just be much better ported. And as was said before, if you go sealed, make sure to double seal it up, and be sure it's made of 3/4" MDF.

You should be fine, every car is different though. I have my cruddy OEM battery and 70a alt and I'm powering 1500w total no problem. the only after-market electrical I have done is the Big 3 upgrade, which you should be doing anyways, and tends to cost between $20-$45. So at 1,000w you should be ok especially with a big 3 upgrade. Maybe if your battery is really old you'll need a new one.

For some reason the guys at the audio shop said the big 3 wouldn't be necessary but i specifically told them I'd be using 750 wrms not 1000 so maybe that'd be different.

 

[Team TH (Donny) 10+ year member]

The big 3 is always necessary and always benefits whether or not your even running a system in my opinion. It's easy and doesn't take long to run the big 3, so would be beneficial to go ahead and get it done.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Get the SA 15, get an Audiopipe apsm1300 ($100 + ship at most online retailers) and have prorabbit or someone on here build you a box. A guy at the last event I went to was doing 141db with the same equipment I just mentioned with a low tuned daily box in a Volvo sedan. It would be even louder in a hatch. Obsidian also makes a hell of a daily sub for suuuper cheap too but they only have d2 12s in stock right now.

Regardless of what you get, have someone build you a custom box or buy a design and build it yourself. The box is the most important thing to consider with a sub stage. If you want to take it a step further you can also add box rigidity, tune and firing direction are also very important factors as well. You could go another step further and include sound dampening and stopping outside resonances (road noise or panel resonance) as probably the most important factors of all. Sealed boxes rob output anywhere from 40-60% compared to ported boxes. To compensate for this you will want to add more power or cone area which runs up the price and eats up interior space. A ported box will be more efficient overall and will allow you to get away with less cone area and power saving money and space.

 

[KnightWhoSaysNI 10+ year member]

Get the SA 15, get an Audiopipe apsm1300 ($100 + ship at most online retailers) and have prorabbit or someone on here build you a box. A guy at the last event I went to was doing 141db with the same equipment I just mentioned with a low tuned daily box in a Volvo sedan.

Just curious, was the Volvo running a D2 or a D4 SA?

 

[Team TH (Donny) 10+ year member]

If I find out how much of a pain and how expensive it is to ship a box I may be able to build your box, but I don't do finishes as far as covering with any fabrics. Would be bare 3/4" real MDF, double baffled, and built to specs within your vehicles measurement limits. I just don't know how to package/ship it and don't know if it'd get damaged during the shipment. Perhaps, I could PM pro-rabbit and ask him about shipping info for a box. Maybe you could take a look at how well that local shop builds and if they'd cut you a deal.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Get the SA 15, get an Audiopipe apsm1300 ($100 + ship at most online retailers) and have prorabbit or someone on here build you a box. A guy at the last event I went to was doing 141db with the same equipment I just mentioned with a low tuned daily box in a Volvo sedan.
Just curious, was the Volvo running a D2 or a D4 SA?

Probably a d2 because he said the amp was at 1 ohm, his box was tuned to 33hz as well, sub and port firing to the back

 

[KnightWhoSaysNI 10+ year member]

^^^ pretty impressive for a nice inexpensive 15 with a $100 budget amp

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

If I find out how much of a pain and how expensive it is to ship a box I may be able to build your box, but I don't do finishes as far as covering with any fabrics. Would be bare 3/4" real MDF, double baffled, and built to specs within your vehicles measurement limits. I just don't know how to package/ship it and don't know if it'd get damaged during the shipment. Perhaps, I could PM pro-rabbit and ask him about shipping info for a box. Maybe you could take a look at how well that local shop builds and if they'd cut you a deal.

How much would you charge? Aside from shipping. Pro-rabbit I know probably makes great boxes. The shop around here really has done some nice installs, for some pro football players even. So they probably do too. But they charge 200 and up just for box and pro rabbit charges 180 approx.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

^^^ pretty impressive for a nice inexpensive 15 with a $100 budget amp

werd

 

[Team TH (Donny) 10+ year member]

I'd charge $100 for the build but like I said I don't do fabric/finish it'd just be bare MDF. I also have no clue how much shipping would be. I'd definitely put insurance on the shipment too just in case of damage. I insure everything I ship anymore though.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

^ very good price, he does very good work from what I have seen in his build logs. I hope my skills will be on that level someday //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

I'd charge $100 for the build but like I said I don't do fabric/finish it'd just be bare MDF. I also have no clue how much shipping would be. I'd definitely put insurance on the shipment too just in case of damage. I insure everything I ship anymore though.

I don't really care about looks bare is fine. My dad will be home shortly so we can discuss the sa 15.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

I'd charge $100 for the build but like I said I don't do fabric/finish it'd just be bare MDF. I also have no clue how much shipping would be. I'd definitely put insurance on the shipment too just in case of damage. I insure everything I ship anymore though.

That is not a bad price for him right there. If you ship via UPS insurance up to $100 is given if you want more you have to input that when you ship. I normally insure for $50-100 over actual cost. I have only had one issue where a claim was needed and that has been over several years with no claims.

OP-

The local shop is not a bad option. However, making things look good behind fiberglass and trim panels is the easy part. Not saying they don't do the design right, just saying that "pretty" does not mean functional all the time. Just remember that who ever you go to for your enclosure does not just toss a few numbers around with out taking your application and response curves for what you want into consideration.

I'm sure no matter which way you go you will be more then happy/impressed with the results.