oh and no way stock will it make 250whp period.
If you have an L67 to start with, you are better off because basic bolt on L67''s can easily run high 13s and make 300 crank horsepower with under $1500 in mods.
However, like the L36, you need to come up with a game plan first as far as how far you want to go. Some mods are not compatable, or delete each other (ie rockers + cam, plog/PEMS + headers, etc)- so good planning is the best start. Here are your basic options (obviously you could add a bottle to any of these, so we''ll just focus on the power adders):
-sticking with the stock gen 3 m90, is the best way to go for bang for the buck. It is dirt cheap to get it into the 13s and is relatively simple to do. For the big spenders, you''ll find that most run out of steam around 400whp, with the record being 425whp. As for 1/4 mile- they''ve come as low as 11.0 with nitrous, and 11.2 without. At that point, honestly- a turbo is the cheaper option- but its all personal opinion. One option you''ll notice as you mod this route is that the L32 (newer version of the L67) comes with the newer gen 5 M90 which is a direct bolt on with the L32 LIM and a new TB- and is along the same lines as the best ported gen 3 M90s in terms of performance and price. put the time and money into these setups- so there should be more potential given today''s resources
-bigger supercharger, in short- there are no true "bolt on" bigger superchargers. The Kenne Bell Blowzilla 2.3L, Whipple 140AX/2300, and
Magnuson MP112 (similar to the Eaton M112 on the 03/04 mustang cobra) have been installed- but none are true bolt ons, and all will require a some work if you do find a kit.
Common mistakes when modding the 3800:
-Dropping to a smaller supercharger pulley without scanning. Lots of people have done it, and lots of people popped pistons. If you have KR now, it will only be worse with a smaller pulley.
-"Upgrading" the plug wires and coilpacks. The stock wires and coilpacks have been tested fine over 600+ whp, so they are fine for just about anyone. The only reason people do wires is to get more durable ones for frequent plug changes. Few people have found the limit of the stock coils- and its not in power- its rpm. They tend to produce misfires at crazy high rpm (7250+ I think), but practically no one revs that high.
-Thinking the stock bottom end is weak. The stock bottom end is used in the 8.6 second 600+ whp drag car, and many other of our major drag cars, and no one breaks bottom ends with good parts and a good tune. People chip pistons from running KR, but most other failures are flukes. The stock bottom end is plenty for most everyone.
Some links (these are not all, just some of the main ones I can think of). They are in order to some extent with how involved they are with the 3800 community, and how many parts they offer. They are not necessarily in order of best-worst or anything like that.
Please feel free to add more, because I know I''m missing some.
http://www.zzperformance.com
http://www.intense-racing.com
http://www.wbodystore.com
http://www.pfyc.com
http://www.3800performance.com
http://www.thrashercharged.com
http://www.prjperformance.com
http://www.hptuners.com
http://www.digitalhorsepowerinc.com
top 10 1/4 mile:
http://www.3800pro.com/forum/fwdquarter.php
Top cam:
http://www.clubgp.com/forum search for ''top cam chart'' in general, all words, all dates- if this link doesn''t work:
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=1550443&appid=&p=&mpage=1&key=top%2Ccam&language=single&tmode=&smode=&s=
Before I begin anything with the L67, there is one thing that you must be very aware of. The L67 is modded around one principle- KR. Knock Retard is the computer''s reaction to the engine knocking due to too much timing advance, and too much boost for the mods. Basically, it means the computer is pulling timing to stop the knock, and stop the engine from destroying itself. Many stock L67s have some KR bone stock.
The idea is, to run the car fastest- you want 0 KR all the time. If you are not at 0* KR, then work on your tune more, or do more supporting mods to increase airflow. If you are over 0* KR, then don''t go to a smaller supercharger pulley (ie don''t increase your boost). If you increase boost and you have KR already, then you will end up with even more KR. If you get too much KR, you will chip the pistons! So the idea with L67 modding is to always keep tabs on knock once you start messing with the supercharger pulley. Either buy a cheap scan tool, buy an aeroforce scan gauge (~$200)- or find a buddy who will let you borrow a scan tool when you swap pullies.
This section is for those looking to go as far as they can for minimal money and to get the best ''bang for the buck'':
There is a very simple and straight forward list to obtain approximately 300 crank horsepower (~240whp) and to be able to run high 13 second 1/4 mile times (with minor track prep- in full street trim).
-CAI/FWI, (the most common used is the 4" inlet, 9" long K&N, but many will work), you want as little restriction and as little temperature as possible for the s/c to provide the coolest output. Do not do a ''hot air intake'' with the filter in the open engine bay at this mod level. This runs $50-300+ and power gains are minimal, but you will now hear the supercharger scream when you floor it!
-Downpipe, do a 3"- this eliminates the neck down right inside the first bend of the DP, and eliminates the ubend. These things are cheap if you don''t need a cat, but even with a cat, they are worth it $80-200
-Plugs (while plugs are useless for an L36, the stock platinum plugs do not work well with modded L67s). For this step either go with Autolite copper 605s (1 step colder than stock) or Autolite copper 104''s (2 steps colder than stock). If you don''t plan on going further than this list- go with the 605s. Less than $10
-180* thermostat- just another mod that seems to help w/ KR reduction $15
-ZZP Powerlog- basically a front header only- eliminates the neck down point just before the crossover pipe, and is a very quick and easy install ~$100.
-1.9:1 modded stock rockers- open the valves more, letting more air in and out. These are the most difficult part to install of these basic bolt ons, you pull both valve covers to change them- but you can leave the stock springs, and driveability and gas mileage stays about the same. These are the second most noticeable power gain next to the pulley drop. Prices range from $200 used up to about $275 new.
-pcm tuning- you essentially have 2 options here- a canned tune that they send you a new pcm, or driving to someone and having them custom tune it. A canned pcm is far cheaper at $100, but its gains are typically nowhere near a one off tune. Honestly, if you plan to spend the $250+ on a custom tune, you should consider buying your own tuner (they start at $400 for the 3800s)- but be prepared to learn... A LOT.
-supercharger pulley drop (if you will stop modding at this point- go with a press on pulley- if you plan to go on, then buy a modular setup so its easier to change again later)- you do need to scan for knock first- after all those other mods are done. If you still have knock, then you probably have a problem. If not, you''re good to drop pulley sizes. With those mods above, you should be good to go for a 3.4" pulley, however, if you had a very hard time getting rid of factory KR, and you barely did- a 3.5" pulley would be a better choice. This is likely the most significant power change for the basic bolt ons, as long as you end up with little to no KR. Press ons go from $20-60, modular setups go from $80-150.
Obviously you can continue adding mods onto that to make more power, but those tend to be the basic core of mods. If you''ve still got a little knock and want to be safe- a throttle body upgrade is next on the list if you just need 1 more mod.
oh and the trannnies **** the bed all the time. good luck!
probably did not scan for it.
