Hi SQ 10 recommendations

Gauge ampacity charts would laugh at my factory 18ga wires for 135 watts per channel.

The problem came when poking my head under the dash this evening. Getting new wires into the doors looks like it will require fairly significant disassembly of the dash.

Question:

If this is the case, how likely are the factory 18 gauge wires to cause me issues?
 
I’m not so sure the braxials from cdt will fit and clear windows in my truck, unfortunately…

Over the past day or so I’ve been looking at the Sony ES line. Maybe it’s just hype, but they have a solid fan base. I’m considering running their full line up, as I know it will all fit and play well together. Their sub is sql focused. I know, the components are expensive, but you only live once.

If I’m being honest with myself, I don’t care about much other than sq. I’d be happy if my old truck could come close to the factory 15 speaker system in my Tesla. It only has an 8” sub, iirc. Maybe a little more sub would be nice.

Also, there are three additional location for speakers, but not sure if they’re worth utilizing. They are two 3.5” and a 2.5”, all in the dash shooting to at the windshield.

Head unit:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV9500/Sony-XAV-9500ES.html



Amp:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XM5ES/Sony-XM-5ES.html



Components:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XS162ES/Sony-XS-162ES.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XS160ES/Sony-XS-160ES.html



Sub:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XSW122E/Sony-XS-W122ES.html
 
Generally speaking you can fit ~3" deep speakers in most cars if you use a spacer. I always take the door apart and take measurements before buying.

I don't like the look of those Sony dome tweeters - they appear to be semi-horn loaded, which restricts dispersion. If you plan on listening on-axis, then it's not an issue, but off-axis it will (probably) affect frequency response.
 
Generally speaking you can fit ~3" deep speakers in most cars if you use a spacer. I always take the door apart and take measurements before buying.

I don't like the look of those Sony dome tweeters - they appear to be semi-horn loaded, which restricts dispersion. If you plan on listening on-axis, then it's not an issue, but off-axis it will (probably) affect frequency response.
I took the door apart and I have a decent spot to aim the tweeter of the components at the driver and passenger just below the sail. I’d put them in the sail itself, but it’s obscured by the dash on the driver’s side…

IMG_9850.jpeg
 
I took the door apart and I have a decent spot to aim the tweeter of the components at the driver and passenger just below the sail. I’d put them in the sail itself, but it’s obscured by the dash on the driver’s side…

View attachment 55294
I'd probably go sail panels or a-pillar - higher is better. You'll have to aim the tweeters toward the listeners, not the opposite door.
 
I was looking at the Sony ES 10 and 12” woofers. Why does the 10 need more airspace? The designs look identical and the 12 takes more power…

Second, is there a benefit to isolating the subs from each other, or should they share the airspace? If building a box for two, do you simply double airspace requirements of one, or does it need more or less?
 
If it's a sealed box then separate chambers can prevent one sub failing from taking the other with it...plus the divider acts as bracing too
 
I was looking at the Sony ES 10 and 12” woofers. Why does the 10 need more airspace? The designs look identical and the 12 takes more power…

Second, is there a benefit to isolating the subs from each other, or should they share the airspace? If building a box for two, do you simply double airspace requirements of one, or does it need more or less?
Specs indicate that the 10 should have a much smaller enclosure. Sealed, I'd go ~.5cuft for the 10 and ~1-1.5cuft for the 12. The ES subs have very limited throw, so don't expect them to get loud. Personally, I'd look at the Dayton Reference of the ES subs - they sound great, aren't very deep and have more throw.
 
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